switching phal gigatea to s/h

[Ray]

The degree of root loss is primarily determined by the change in conditions from the old medium to the new, and the condition of the roots to start with. However, don't forget that the airy nature of LECA means that evaporative cooling will be enhanced compared to most other media, so that can be stressful. (Not so much if you grow the plant in the summer heat, but if it's in an air conditioned home, it might be significant.)

Groundpounder, you seem to have a mistaken idea of the benefit of K-L-N. It is a synthetic hormone solution. One exposure to it is all it takes to tell the plant's physiology to consider making roots. A repeated mega-dose exposure doesn't enhance that significantly, and can actually cause other issues. If you soaked the PrimeAgra with a teaspoon per gallon or so, then watered the plant in with that upon potting, you need not add more than a drop or two per gallon to your fertilizer solution.

I will repeat - again - what I learned from Ross: put a freshly-potted plant on a seedling heat mat for the first couple of weeks, and it will get established wonderfully!

[groundpounder17]

Thanks for the info everyone! After switching to s/h, I only dampened the top of the LECA once using KLN, for the other times I have used RO water only. I guess I had misunderstood the KLN. I believed that the KLN would break down within about a 24-48 hr period.

[Eyebabe]

I wondered about continuing to use the KLN in the watering after potting up; after about a month I stopped as I could see the salts etc.
Now I know the answer is "no"!

[Ray]

You're not getting salts from the K-L-N. It's either from your water supply, the fertilizer, or insufficiently-cleaned LECA - or some combination of the above.

K-L-N is such a dilute solution at full strength (lower concentration than we typically apply fertilizer), that using it as an additive is insignificant.

Groundpounder - yes, the hormones break down quickly upon exposure to heat and light, but that doesn't mean it hasn't done what is intended. Think of applying a hormone as turning on a light switch. Your first application is turning on the switch. Going back into the room periodically to try to push the switch up more does nothing.

That said, what I DON'T know is how long the plant's "switch stays on" after an application. I'm quite sure it's a fairly significant time, so frequently repeated applications are a waste, but periodic treatment - monthly, maybe - is probably adequate.

Just a general comment on my own observations:

If you are doing a good job of providing the root zone environment and overall cultural conditions the plants need, there is little, if any benefit to using hormone supplements. If, on the other hand, the plant is currently-, or has undergone something stressful - poor potting medium, repotting, poor overall treatment, they may be of some benefit. I can also guarantee (I've done it) that overuse can be debilitating to the plant, resulting in deformed flowers, or as has been reported by others, stunted growth.

I use it only at repotting, just to give the plant every potential re-establishment opportunity possible, but don't after that.

The hormones are really powerful chemicals, so a few drops added to your fertilizer solution is all that's necessary, but getting back to the degradation again, be certain to get fresh material, and store it cool and dark, or it will degrade right in the bottle. For that reason, I only stock small quantities (reordering frequently) and store the stuff in a refrigerator.

[Eyebabe]

Originally Posted by Ray

You're not getting salts from the K-L-N. It's either from your water supply, the fertilizer, or insufficiently-cleaned LECA - or some combination of the above.

K-L-N is such a dilute solution at full strength (lower concentration than we typically apply fertilizer), that using it as an additive is insignificant.

Groundpounder - yes, the hormones break down quickly upon exposure to heat and light, but that doesn't mean it hasn't done what is intended. Think of applying a hormone as turning on a light switch. Your first application is turning on the switch. Going back into the room periodically to try to push the switch up more does nothing.

That said, what I DON'T know is how long the plant's "switch stays on" after an application. I'm quite sure it's a fairly significant time, so frequently repeated applications are a waste, but periodic treatment - monthly, maybe - is probably adequate.

Just a general comment on my own observations:

If you are doing a good job of providing the root zone environment and overall cultural conditions the plants need, there is little, if any benefit to using hormone supplements. If, on the other hand, the plant is currently-, or has undergone something stressful - poor potting medium, repotting, poor overall treatment, they may be of some benefit. I can also guarantee (I've done it) that overuse can be debilitating to the plant, resulting in deformed flowers, or as has been reported by others, stunted growth.

I use it only at repotting, just to give the plant every potential re-establishment opportunity possible, but don't after that.

The hormones are really powerful chemicals, so a few drops added to your fertilizer solution is all that's necessary, but getting back to the degradation again, be certain to get fresh material, and store it cool and dark, or it will degrade right in the bottle. For that reason, I only stock small quantities (reordering frequently) and store the stuff in a refrigerator.

Ray,
Thanks for the info!
I use bottled distilled water currently as I am about 8 weeks away from having an R/O system.
So it is probably from inadequate washing. I rinse well and soak twice, but in my opinion, I still see some of the whitening etc. that you have described from not washing well enough. I am using very little (if any) fertilizer about 1/2 tsp per gallon every two weeks, so like twice. I do use Physan 20 every 3rd or 4th watering 2tsp per gallon.
It has been quite a nice experience overall and my plant area is much cleaner than when I was using the bark mixes and Aussie gold.

[Ray]

Whoa! I would never use Physan at 2 tsp/gal on plants.

That may be fine for walkways, but I fear (no actual experience) that it's too strong for plants on a regular basis.

[Eyebabe]

Originally Posted by Ray

Whoa! I would never use Physan at 2 tsp/gal on plants.

That may be fine for walkways, but I fear (no actual experience) that it's too strong for plants on a regular basis.

Wow, because the bottle says 1-2 teaspoons per gallon.
I'll also make a note of that as well.

(For standing water etc. not used on plants it's even stronger...)

[groundpounder17]

Hello everyone.
My gigantea is not looking well. The leaves still look fine but all I see is roots that appear to be getting darker. They all look as though they are dying. It looks as though one of the two new roots is doing ok but the other not well. The problem is that the two newer roots (about 1-1.5") are on top of the LECA and I've can't keep those two roots in the primeagrea

[Ray]

Heat and humidity!!! This is a plant that really prefers hot conditions.

Old root loss is to be expected, which is why timing is so important, but you did say that even though you knew that, it wasn't looking well so you decided to repot anyway...