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12-27-2009, 12:13 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Zone: 7b
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,550
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Update
Well I decided to take it out of s/h.
The main reason is that the s/h pellets keep the pot much cooler than I anticipated. With our cold winter and my "makeshift" greenhouse, I can't keep the greenhouse really warm enough to suit this Ascda.
So I pulled it out and put it in a teak basket for now and I'll re-raft it in the spring (maybe).
I inspected the roots when I pulled it out and they looked okay, but they had definitely stalled a little (probably due to the cold).
I definitely think that if I had a more temperate (even) climate that it would do fine in s/h.
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12-27-2009, 02:36 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,379
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I have several vandaceous plants in PrimeAgra contained in EcoWeb baskets, and they are thriving.
Being a non-s/h application of LECA, they dry out fairly quickly.
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12-27-2009, 02:41 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Zone: 6a
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Age: 58
Posts: 3,387
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Now that is a thought Ray. How often do you have to water them?
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12-27-2009, 11:06 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Zone: 5b
Location: Central Mass, USA
Posts: 388
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I put a pup of Neostylis Lou Sneary "blue Bird" into S/H and it's starting (just) to grow roots. I'll put it's mother in when it's done blooming  .
Got tons more getting ready to go in...just waiting for Ray to start shipping again since I need more PA.
My Phals are putting out new small new roots and look like they're going to be fine.
My Asco will go in as soon as I see the tinyiest root asw it does not like my conditions at all.
Karen
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01-04-2010, 10:16 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Zone: 5b
Location: Central Mass, USA
Posts: 388
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Got my shipment from Ray (thanks Ray) and spent the day repotting. Put the larger plant of Neostylis Lou Sneary 'Blue Bird' into S/H. Will keep you posted.
Karen
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01-05-2010, 05:33 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SANTA FE CAPITAL ARGENTINA
Posts: 20
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HOLA, CUANDO HACE CALOR, PUEDE SER ESTE METODO EN INVIERNO NO.YO LAS TENGO CON UN FRASCO COLGADO EN UNA RAIZ DENTRO DEL FRASCO, CADA TRES DIAS CAMBIO LA RAIZ.
FERNANDO
SANTA FE ARGENTINA
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01-11-2010, 06:31 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Cambridge, UK
Posts: 46
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01-12-2010, 12:14 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Zone: 5b
Location: Central Mass, USA
Posts: 388
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Cambridgestephen,
I am very interested in your Vanda planting technique.
How long do you let the stubby roots get before you top the plant and put into the beads? How many roots should be growing ?
I have an Asco that's lost many bottom leaves and has a long bare section. Now it's putting out two thick roots right below the good leaves. One is about 1"+ and the other is about 1/2".
How far below these should I cut it and how long do you think I should let them get before I go ahead and do this?
Thanks so much for telling us about what you do.
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01-12-2010, 06:09 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Cambridge, UK
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Country Gramma
Cambridgestephen,
I am very interested in your Vanda planting technique.
How long do you let the stubby roots get before you top the plant and put into the beads? How many roots should be growing ?
I have an Asco that's lost many bottom leaves and has a long bare section. Now it's putting out two thick roots right below the good leaves. One is about 1"+ and the other is about 1/2".
How far below these should I cut it and how long do you think I should let them get before I go ahead and do this?
Thanks so much for telling us about what you do.
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Hi,
You need 2 roots about 1 1/2" long from different nodes, the important bit is to cut it with at least a couple of leaves/nodes under the bottom root, you can always prune the root but don't peel the stem. You can then plant the stub of the plant in the clay beads with the roots exposed, but touching the beads and mist them daily. Hopefully the roots will detect the moisture and grow/cling to the beads. You can then remove some of the beads to encourage roots downwards and keeping them in the light so the clorophyle will provide energy for root growth. They wont rot this way and will be naturally attracted into the moisture, but as the roots know they have to behave in a semie terrestrial fashion, they will be thick and shouldnt rot like thin aerial roots. An important thing to remember is that if vanda roots are kept too wet, they will not form new root buds, in which case it is better to concentrate on watering the leaves and leaving the media drier until root buds form, there is no golden rule except drier is better, it is very easy to rot vanda roots or inhibit root tip formation, but be carefull not to rot the leaves...
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01-12-2010, 06:24 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Cambridge, UK
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