Okay, so if my newly growing roots are healthy... than will the fungus have no negative effect on them? I'm worried about this fungus b/c I've added physan to my fertilzer solution and yet it has returned. In one gallon of Los Angeles tap water, I use about one teaspoon of physan, a couple drops of KLN, and enough MSU for 150ppm.

I'll be making a new mix tomorrow, should I change anything?

There are so many pathogens out there that there is no telling exactly what you're dealing with.

Generally, plants coexist with the small levels of pathogens in the environment, and only have issues if something has stressed them. Repotting at the wrong time might do that, but more often than not, it's simply a matter of old roots dying and rotting while the new roots grow and take over support of the plant.

I would probably do the following:

1. Trim off all affected roots. If they remain, they are a breeding ground for more of the pathogen.
2. Dip plant in Physan solution, then repot.
3. No fertilizer. Plain water and rooting hormone (a drop or two - not tons) only.
4. Water thoroughly and frequently - daily even, if your heat pad and environment dry it rapidly. Try to keep the pot moist top-to-bottom. (In your first photo, the pot appears way too dry, as if it hadn't been watered for a long time.) Warm and moist favors root growth.

Thanks, Ray. The only roots remaining are along the surface and cozy in moss. They are growing slowly but steadily, and I hope they take to the PA. I just mixed up a solution of a couple drops KLN, though when I water I added a bit of hydrogen peroxide as a mold deterrent. I water a couple times a day, but it's pretty dry in Los Angeles so the top layer of PA dries pretty quick. I also keep it by an open window with a decent breeze, so air movement should be okay.

Question for Ray- I notice that MT has top dressed her plant with sphagnum. I have trouble keeping the top of my S/H stones moist- would top dressing with sphag help that, or cause more problems?

If the combination of a dry environment and slow-wicking LECA leads to the evaporation rate significantly outstripping the LECA's ability to replace the moisture, there are a variety of alternatives you can use to improve things.

One is to simply water more often. Another is to top-dress, and sphagnum is a common choice (although I am a bit concerned that it will break apart, infiltrate the medium and clog things up). A poster to the S/H forum from Europe uses disks of aluminized mylar. Not only does it slow the evaporation rate, but he actually gets some condensation returning to the pot.

Are the mylar disks the diameter of the pot, or smaller ones that he arranges on top?

Slightly smaller than the pot diameter, with a hole in the middle and slit to the side, so it can be put around the base of the plant.

i think " no "

Where could I get mylar disks?

I don't know of anyone making disks for sale, I would think any semi-rigid plastic film would do.