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12-11-2009, 10:03 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 609
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Congrats guys!
Over time i think the only minor challenges you'll have with the water culture is with nutrients, pH and oxygen.. so 1) make sure you start to give it a little balanced fertiliser at an approprite ppm rate, 2) make sure the pH stays in an acceptable range so that it can take up all those nutrients and 3) Either let algae grow to oxygenate the water, or refresh the water every couple of weeks/months.
Each of those problems will only show up long-term, but once they do, they're difficult to reverse quickly. So just be mindful from the beginning.
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12-14-2009, 01:06 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 801
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Hi Sheridan
I would gently, but thoroughly remove all decaying material including the rotting sarong visible around the new pseudobulbs.
I have been growing in water culture for 6 years and tried well over a hundred orchids. With a few exceptions, I still find it hard to predict which orchid will adapt to water culture. I have had no experience with Laelia so I am interested to find out how it will adapt for you.
I attribute much of the successful growing of orchids long-term in water culture to promptly cleaning up dead and sick plant material and to changing the solution at least once a week, but more often when I have time. I remove all decaying roots and stuff initially, and as soon as I see them developing, later. I aim to leave only healthy roots in the solution. I treat for infection vigorously as long as I see signs of it, usually with drugstore hydrogen peroxide 3% or physan; and if rot has penetrated deeply, with Gentian violet !%.
I aim to use a nutrient solution of approximately 120ppm Nitrogen which would be about 1/2 tsp/gallon of a commonly available fertilizer labeled 20 for Nitrogen. Until the plant has enough roots I also add growth regulator, like KLN, 2-3 drops/gall and soak with 1/2 tsp/gallon before I transplant. I am not sure this is important with all plants.
I hope this helps. Here are a few links to photos of healthy roots. There are many examples of plants I grew successfully in water culture for 2-5 years in that album in my gallery.

   
Last edited by Sun rm.N.E.; 12-14-2009 at 01:32 PM..
Reason: add link
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12-14-2009, 01:58 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 197
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Thanks - that detailed info is really helpful. I've tried water culture with varying degrees of success for a few years, and this has given me some new things to try.
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12-14-2009, 04:40 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,283
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Thanks Sun Rm for the info. I hadn't done much other than putting them in water so tomorrow I will follow your instructions. I will keep you all posted on their progress.

Sheridan
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12-14-2009, 07:47 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 609
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Wow great pictures Sun rmNE, thanks for posting!
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12-16-2009, 12:07 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Zone: 6b
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Age: 58
Posts: 1,490
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Have a laelia anceps - small.
it has many pb - broke apart so i had 3 pb in bark and 9 in hydroton SH.
a clump 3 PB came apart together from the SH plant so i put those in water culture.
so will check on the results
water [3 PB]
SH [6 larger PB]
bark [3 PB]
not scientific but yet being the same plant i see how it responds.
the part in hydroton initially lost all the roots but now is growing many new roots.
just maybe the hydroton pellets are a bit too large for a small plant so it may take a while for the roots to anchor firmly
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12-16-2009, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 801
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Hi Stef
First, in the hydroton, I suggest the plant be tied to some kind of stake since the new root tips will be easily injured during watering.
I am interested in your results. I have not grown Laelia but one primary hybrid of L anceps, Lc Calligula. It had short lived roots in water culture but produced new ones frequently enough to grow healthy new leads. It later produced better roots in S/H. I saw photos of L anceps in a little washtub about a foot and a half across that grew that big in S/H.
If we were to compare methods I would like to see what you are starting with. At the least, photograph the area on each where the new growth buds or the potential for them looks like, or describe it. Hopefully, each division has viable new growth buds without any sign of rot. I would also take note of the total mass of the current growth that is needed to support the new growth on each of them. It is hard to remember all this 6 months later.
Good luck!
Last edited by Sun rm.N.E.; 12-16-2009 at 02:46 PM..
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12-18-2009, 04:09 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Zone: 6b
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Age: 58
Posts: 1,490
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here are some photos -
not too close up. when I put it in LECA the roots died and now it is growing many.
I attach some other photos other stuff that i am growing. Mostly small plants because i am always on a budget!
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12-18-2009, 05:09 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,283
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Hi Stefano looked at your photo's you just posted and they look great. Those rubber bands work to hold the plant in place. What ever works right.... Your Vanda looks great mine just went to Vanda heaven or where ever Vanda's go
I just have two orchids in water culture and they seem to be holding their own. I have spotted a couple of new roots. I plan on putting them into s/h medium once they look better.
Happy Growing.
Sheridan 
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