transfering catt. from water culture to s/h

[Ray]

Whoa! There is a lot of info posted so far that isn't entirely accurate, so let me see if I can clarify some of it.

Semi-hydroponics is defined as single-pot culture using an inert medium and maintaining a constant reservoir of nutrient solution.

I recommend against the use of pots with no drainage, as there is no good way to flush the pot full of medium, and that is essential for the well-being of the plant. Even those three component pots (outer pot that acts as a reservoir, inner culture pot, and liquid level gauge) offer the ability to remove the plant and medium, dump the reservoir, and flush the medium. With the standard s/h pot (2 holes in the side to define the upper limit of the reservoir), flushing happens with each watering.

Just because a plant in water culture has a good root system, that does not mean it is ideal for moving to s/h. Keep in mind that root cells grow into a physical form that is tailored to the environment that it is in, and that once grown, they do not change. That is why the best time to repot is when new roots are growing, so they can grow with a cellular structure adapted to the new root zone environment - and that's all repotting, not just into s/h. (OK, S/H to S/H repotting [moving up in size] can be done at any time, as it adds no stress and the environment is unchanged.)

It is for that reason that the rootless plant can grow good roots into water, and why roots growing into (not placed in) the reservoir of an s/h pot is no issue.

How big of a change in the root zone environment also plays a role - I've never done it, but water culture to s/h might be a "walk in the park", as you're keeping the moisture present, but greatly improving the air flow. Most problems (ignoring the ridiculous practice of hoping an otherwise sick plant will be rescued by s/h) occur when a plant grown in a relatively dry medium is plopped into the moist environment when no new roots are growing.

The point about root suffocation is a good one. A proper medium for semi-hydroponics is inert so it won't rot, break down, and suffocate the roots, and have a large enough pore space between the particles so that roots growing in the space won't cut off the air flow and suffocate themselves.

[BigRed]

Thank you Ray for clearing that up for me. I hadn't taken into consideration the need to flush the plants. That is probably quite important. I think I'll try to make some pots out of pop bottles today.
All three of the orchids are currently putting out new roots and growths. Thats why I thought it would be fun to try S/H. I feel like the water culture wasn't an ideal, and that the plant might thrive in a different medium. Also, its difficult fertilize them in the cups. I was always worried I'd over fertilize and burn the roots.
The Onc. actually has a deformed new p bulb with leaves that have ridges. I read somewhere that can happen when the plant isn't getting proper nutrition. Another reason I wanted to give it a better environment.
I have a tendency to kill my plants when I re-pot. Do you have any suggestions? Usually it's because the roots get damaged and then they rot in the new medium. My hope is that because hydroton is inert it wont harbor much bacteria to infect the broken roots.
Well, thank you so much for your advice. I'll post pics after the work is done.

[Ray]

Unless you are reusing organic media components, there will be few, if any plant pathogens in the medium that will cause root rot.

Plant tissue has to die first, then the bacteria and fungi can do their thing. If that was not the case, the moment there was any trace of rot, the whole root system would succumb, and that is certainly not the case. As an example, have you ever seen a plant grown in sphagnum that had the beginnings of apparent root rot, but then a new length of healthy root grew from it?

The biggest killer of roots is suffocation, not mechanical damage. Sometimes I trim old, healthy roots, as they then branch and get established faster (I do not recommend that as a normal practice). Suffocation will not be a problem if you use a coarse-enough grade of LECA, but keep that "different root cells" thing in mind.

[Amanda L]

Ray, you are always a great source of information!! I have been toying with the idea of transferring some chids to S/H culture, I'm still gathering information at this point. It's good to know about the root cells growing differently to adjust to the new media! I had never even thought about that! I have a Den that is bare root at the moment with lots and lots of new root growth. I also have a Phal keiki growing, I might also try S/H for it when it has roots. Thanks for starting this thread BigRed, I have learned quite a lot from it!

[greenbean]

Thanks for catching my errors Ray.

I like helping but sometimes I have trouble knowing when to shut up. As I frequently tell people, "wait for someone with more experience to chime in."

[Wrebbitrocks]

how do you start an orchid on water culture

[slide1475]

Hi Bigred - your water culture success is amazing! I have a Brassavola little stars that I am very worried about since it has no roots. Any tips on starting it in water culture?

As for a pretty pot with no drainage holes for your S/H experiment, I recall seeing it done successfully in my extensive S/H reading, but there is one important point of consideration: salt build up. If you go to Welcome to First Rays Orchids you will see a ton of info on why the reservoir and the holes, etc., but the key is the watering style. You water whenever the reservoir is depleted by filling up the pot to the very top of the medium and let it drain out. This "washes" away excess fertilizer, salts, etc. and leaves you with fresh water in the reservoir and freshly washed medium as well.

[Ray]

No apologies, Evan! I cannot tell you how many times I see someone else's description of something that makers me stop and think, only to realize their explanation of observation is better than mine!

[BigRed]

I have transferred all three plants to S/H. I'm going to get it for this but I put them all in glass containers. The same they were in before. I'm a rebel I just had to try it my way. I know salt buld up can be an issue but I have a plan. I wont fertalize for about a month while the plants establish themself. Once I start fertalizing I can just let the water go all the way to the top and run out for a few seconds, then tip it and pour out the excess. I don't think it will be an easy job since the leca loves to just roll out of the pot. I just really wanted to put them in glass. I love seeing the roots really clearly. It has been about a week so far. They all apper to be just as happy as before the move. The catt's newest root growth from before the repot seem to be growing at the same rate. At first a little bit of white fluffy mold started growing but I zapped it with some hydrogen peroxide on a cutip and it hasn't come back. I really want to post pics because I'm so proud of myself but I can't at the moment. I seem to have misplaced my cameras usb hookup. I will definatly give an update when I can hook it up. I absolutly love all the information I have recieved from this post.

[snow]

there are clear plastic pots thruogh wich you can easyly observe the roots.
i believe another function of the holes in the pot, besides drainage is to provide a steady supply of fresh air as well as water. both important for s/h culture. why have this discusion if you are just going to stick you,re plants back in a vase full of water with the lecca added. you just as well stay with waterculture than. in my humble opinion.