Flasks to S/H

[Undergrounder]

I've been considering deflasking my new Phalaenopsis flasks straight to a S/H system (using coarse Perlite instead of LECA). I figure they're used to being pretty wet in the flask anyway, so they'd probably not need to adapt at all to the S/H right?

Also, is it important to 'harden off' the roots out of the flask before i change them to S/H or can i put them straight in?

[Buds!]

Originally Posted by Undergrounder

I've been considering deflasking my new Phalaenopsis flasks straight to a S/H system (using coarse Perlite instead of LECA). I figure they're used to being pretty wet in the flask anyway, so they'd probably not need to adapt at all to the S/H right?

Also, is it important to 'harden off' the roots out of the flask before i change them to S/H or can i put them straight in?

Hi Undergrounder,
I have had mixed results from flask to s/h. I find that the seedlings perform better after being harden off.

I've tried this method with phal schilleriana, equestris, violacea & bellina.

The first two are thriving and the last two had to be moved to sphag & diatomite after high death rate.

I just can't grow violaceas or bellinas in s/h!

[Ray]

I agree with Buds on part of that - the roots are generally no issue, but leaf transpiration has been no stress on the plantlets at all while in-vitro. Harden them after transplanting.

Buds - it's no problem with violaceas and bellinas - IF you keep them really warm.

[Undergrounder]

thanks guys...

am hoping going straight from flask to perlite S/H will mean a hell of a lot less time fiddling around and better growth to boot!

ie: Frequency of Watering and the Growth of Phalaenopsis

[Undergrounder]

OK an update on my results with deflasking straight to S/H...

First off, in general, its fine and they love it.

I've had violacea-based hybrids go into straight perlite grown S/H, and they're doing very well, although i do have them sitting on a shelf setup with fluorescent lights close by, and the temperature stays at about 25 degs during the day and 21 at night. So the heat might be helping.

The LECA works, but the smaller flaskling definitely prefer perlite, as the LECA is too big for their small root systems. The LECA works well for larger seedlings though.

Also, i found a layer of medium-coarse pebbles on top of the perlite keeps the leaves off the moist perlite surface, keeping the leaves and crown area dryer and less prone to mould. It also stops light getting to the perlite and causing algae.

So all in all, good results going straight from flask to S/H, and the perlite works well for tiny seedlings.

[dabblin-n-orchids]

Fascinating I first off didn't realize perlite had the proper wicking properties for S/H culture. very good to know. Would you say they are doing better then seedlings planted in bark or about the same?

[Undergrounder]

Much better in perlite, compared to bark or sphagnum. In fact perlite probably wicks better than LECA... i do add extra holes to the sides of the pot to add more air, as perlite is generally smaller and doesn't hold as much air between it like LECA does. I would reccommend LECA for full-grown plants definitely, but perlite for seedlings.

Perlite also has its problems, dust (which can damage leaves if it sticks to them), slight compaction over a long period of time and algae growth seem to be the main ones. If there is a smaller grade LECA ball then i'd use that, but perlite for my needs works fine.