Trpla. sauvis in S/H

[D&S Mabel]

From what I've read about its culture, Trichopilia sauvis would do well in S/H.

Any reason why not?

Thanks!

[Ray]

Usually, when this question comes up for me, I start by referring to orchidspecies.com, which states the following about trichopilias:

Around 30 species of small to medium sized epiphytes, and occasionally lithophytes or terrestrials beneath orchid bearing trees, from Central and South America which require shady, warm to cold conditions and careful watering while growing, less when not. They are best potted in a mound with the plant in the center on the highest point so as to show off the short basal few flowered racemes.

That would make me think twice. However, looking specifically at the Tricho. suavis info makes it seem OK:

This medium sized, warm to cool growing epiphytic species occurs from Costa Rica to Colombia in low, mossy woods on large branches and tree trunks between 1000 and 1700 meters in elevation, and is an erect plant that has fairly round, fleshy, compressed psuedobulbs enveloped basally by several, papery, imbricating sheaths and carrying a single apical, broadly elliptic-lanceolate, pointed, coriaceous yet flexible, erect or curved, abruptly narrows below into an elongate conduplicate petiolate base leaf and up to 8" long. They have a basal inflorescence arising on a newly formed pseudobulb that is pendulous or curved, short, with 2-5 longlasting, large, fragrant flowers that occur in the late winter to early spring. Yearly repotting, regular water while in growth and a month long cooler, well ventilated rest insure a healthy blooming plant.

[D&S Mabel]

Well I took the plunge and it's in S/H.

Thank you for the information on this plant. How do I give it a "rest" in S/H? Just not water it for a month?

Thanks again.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by D&S Mabel

How do I give it a "rest" in S/H? Just not water it for a month?

Thanks again.

I am aware of two methods that seem to work:

1. Simply stop watering, or
2. Continue watering, but with no fertilizer whatsoever.

[Sun rm.N.E.]

I found new growth more susceptible to rot than most orchids and have seen others report the same. I would treat any signs promptly with your favorite method such as peroxide or Physan. Otherwise I found it quick to root.

[D&S Mabel]

Sun - I am planning using a systemic fungicide regularly to hopefully prevent those issues. I started using THIOMYL on all my plants recently, spraying once a month to try and prevent black rot that crops up from time to time here.

Can I do the same for plants in S/H? Do I need to flush the S/H mix when I am done applying or any other considerations, etc.?

[Sun rm.N.E.]

I am not familiar with Thiomyl. Ray might know about it.
I learned to use drugstore peroxide straight from the bottle from Allen Koch. I always have some fresh solution in disposable little cups with Qtips and remove beginning decay that way. If necessary i just pour it on. No need to rinse. It quickly decomposes into water and oxygen. If the rot is more serious I use 1 percent Gentian Violet.

[gerneveyn]

I just got one of these and was thinking about growing it in s/h. How did you plant do in s/h?

[Tindomul]

I have mine in S/H. Its doing okish. Lost its newest leaf, one leaf left with a black tip. The pbulbs are strong, but I just don't know why it won't do better. I did get it to rebloom though this year.

[gerneveyn]

Thanks for replying, I might try it when my plant gets stronger.