Working semihidroponic terracota

[Orchidcork]

Thank you very much Ray for your opinion, regarding the holes in the tank, I think it's a good idea to put them together.

Then there are two points that I don't agree with
1.- You say that hydroponics works by evaporation, but I think that hydroponics works by the great capillarization of the LEKA.
The nutrients do not rise with the water when evaporating, as occurs with the salts, which remain in the containers when the water evaporates.
Not so with capillarization as we can see in cement houses where due to capillarization the salts rise and I think that's how the Semi-hydroponics works
In fact, for this very reason I think that putting the complete terracotta tube increases this capillarization even in the walls

2.- For this reason I think that my experiment of putting those extra holes in the rest of the tube, for the Cattleya pots should work, we'll see.

3.- AlsoAbout this matter of the 4 degrees of difference between plastic and terracotta, I would like to know more.

Regarding what you say about Phalaenopsis, this is not a problem that can occur in cold climates, with clay pots, since the cooling effect produced by evaporation is due to the heat absorbed to transform the liquid into gas, so in cold environments there is almost no evaporation.

This is why evaporative air conditioners work better in warm and dry environments, where evaporation does occur.

As for the 8 cm in the finished Catasetum pots, I made them at 8 cm because that is what a Catasetum grower asked me to do.

But the ones I am making now, the ones that are only in the photo, with the clay still wet and uncooked, in which I want to put Cattleyas, we are in agreement, because I have put the drainage holes much lower, if you look, the hole is at 5 cm, plus the thickness of the bottom and 1 cm left from the clay when it is completely dry, it will be at 3.5 cm.

Thanks again for your comments, I'm still in the seedling stage when it comes to orchids.