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02-13-2021, 11:50 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GinaStarSeed
How deep is too deep??
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Generally, I find that the “base” of the plant - the demarcation point between “shoot” and “roots” - often the rhizome in sympodial plants - should be right at the surface.
I’m pretty sure Orchidtinkerer’s (Swimmy’s?) comment was done just to disagree with my earlier assessment, but if your air is dry enough that evaporation dries out that top layer or two, being submerged in it isn’t bad.
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02-13-2021, 12:28 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Generally, I find that the “base” of the plant - the demarcation point between “shoot” and “roots” - often the rhizome in sympodial plants - should be right at the surface.
I’m pretty sure Orchidtinkerer’s (Swimmy’s?) comment was done just to disagree with my earlier assessment, but if your air is dry enough that evaporation dries out that top layer or two, being submerged in it isn’t bad.
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Well, I agree with those statements, Ray. Personally, I don't think Gina's is planted too deeply, just because it's doubtful with that much open pot that the top couple of layers are staying wet. I'll bet the dry line is at least two to three LECA levels down. Unless the lowest base of leaves captures and holds a lot of water when flooding. Can't tell from the picture.
I do have some, especially younger or recently transferred, that I purposely bury somewhat deeper than normal. Usually it's because of a lower dry line, or unstable plant with little root. But that's sort of a finesse thing after one's been growing in SH for awhile.
---------- Post added at 10:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:12 AM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orchidtinkerer
In lecca I don't think it matters but I've gotten used to people picking and choosing the advice that suits them.
If my car breaks down I would also like to think it was due to the weight of some bird poop on the roof and washing it off would solve the problem so if that's what you want to hear, go for it.
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Well, planting depth CAN matter, whether in a bark mix or semi-hydro with LECA.
As far as people picking and choosing advice that suits them, you should certainly know. Not sure what's weighing YOU down, but I suggest you examine your own analogy and wash your own car, figuratively speaking. Your post is not helpful to the OP's questions and serves no use to the thread, other than running your mouth to snark at another member's opinion. My advice to you is you've been warned three times now recently. Please cease and go back to your more pleasant behavior. I know you're capable of it.
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02-13-2021, 12:28 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
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What are your temperatures day/night?
Are you growing it with the semihydroponic method, or with LECA in a standard pot?
How and how frequently are you watering? Fertilizing?
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02-13-2021, 12:35 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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It's most likely in semi-hydro since Gina posted in the semi-hydro forum, but still reasonable to check. Gina... yes, what is your temperature growing range? And it's been more than a week... has that look progressed, or stabilized since losing heat a couple weeks ago? A new picture probably wouldn't hurt.
I'm still thinking cold damage from your heater outage, especially since it's only happening to your phrags and not other orchids. Thinner leaf orchids many times suffer more quickly from a sudden cold drop than some others with more leaf substance, like Catts, etc.
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02-13-2021, 01:25 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
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It looks to me more like underwatering or fertilizer excess.
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02-13-2021, 01:56 PM
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Hmmmm.... I went back and re-read the first post. I missed this part, or skimmed over it too fast "but they were doing this before then..."
So you have a real valid point on that one ES. I somehow read it as heater went out, only phrags were affected, but missed the doing it before part.
So yes, how often are you watering? And how?
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Caveat: Everything suggested is based on my environment and culture. Please adjust accordingly.
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02-13-2021, 02:03 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Zone: 9b
Location: Lake Charles, Louisiana
Age: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
Hmmmm.... I went back and re-read the first post. I missed this part, or skimmed over it too fast "but they were doing this before then..."
So you have a real valid point on that one ES. I somehow read it as heater went out, only phrags were affected, but missed the doing it before part.
So yes, how often are you watering? And how?
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Don't forget that the fertilizer issue has been addressed, so that isn't the issue. It has been my experience that browning from the tips usually point to under watering, also.
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02-13-2021, 03:18 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Phrags are supposed to be sensitive to overfertilizing. "Not much" means different things to different people. It would be useful for diagnosis to know how much fertilizer she used.
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02-13-2021, 04:22 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca
Phrags are supposed to be sensitive to overfertilizing. "Not much" means different things to different people. It would be useful for diagnosis to know how much fertilizer she used.
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True. Phrags are also very sensitive to water quality, so there's also that issue.
I agree that underwatering or overfertilizing or water quality can cause browning at the tips of Phrags. But the brown "tips" on many of those leaves aren't just the tips, and appear too much the same color of browning overall. Not "crispy" but more like a sudden change on a mature leaf. Without a lot more info, it's sort of a guessing game though...
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