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09-29-2014, 07:20 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Zone: 10a
Location: Tracy, Pleasanton,Fremont, Sacto, C
Age: 53
Posts: 193
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Dilution rate of Pest/fungal/bacte Cides?
hello everyone I was wondering if there is a table or a formula to figure out a dilution rate of Pest/fungal/bacte cides. I ask cause no product i have looked at even seems to mention orchids in their list. I noticed on the St. Augustine website for pests and diseases that there is a tsp/gallon column for trademarked pesticides and such. I tryed to search for those trademarked chems. and neither my local nurseries or my hydro stores seem to know about any of them on their list, ie Captan, Phyton 27. I noticed Ray has a dilution rate for the Bayer Tree Shrub formula, and was wondering how that was derived. Im asking as nothing ever seems to mention orchids in their lists of plants to use on, unlike Physanand having to rotate through different products. Also using these per label instruction can be very costly, ie. Drenching till run off etc., plus the less that goes into the ground the better off our waterways will be. one side question total ppm should be what exactly for N in feeding regimine. With what im using (Bettergro atm) it came to about 450ppm or so. I keep reading about 125ppm. Thank you all for your replys in advance on my way to work. Look forward to the reading. Have nice evening All.
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09-30-2014, 08:14 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Zone: 9a
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 26,634
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09-30-2014, 08:18 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Zone: 10a
Location: Tracy, Pleasanton,Fremont, Sacto, C
Age: 53
Posts: 193
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Hmmm still no takers!
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09-30-2014, 11:59 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Zone: 5b
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,953
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You can buy Captan from any place that sells fruit trees (Miller's, etc). The stuff recommended for Fire Blight is for bacteria (Fire Blight is a bacteria). We use Captan and Malathion for our fruit trees. Since you are going after the same bacteria, fungus and pests, the dilution should remain the same. Not to use the proper dilution would likely encourage resistance. I hope this helps.
The important thing when using the 'big guns' is to use the proper protective gear and to take the proper precautions. We don't toss our clothes (as one of them recommends) but we do soak them and rinse them very well after spraying and before adding them to the washing machine. :|
---------- Post added at 10:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 PM ----------
Look for 'Bonide' if you can't find a tree place.
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10-01-2014, 09:33 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,205
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I have heard it said that, for pesticides, one should usually be OK using the recommended rate for roses, which is far more commonly provided.
The Bayer Tree & Shrub recommendation was for a specific product, and was calculated from the recommended rate for 50% imidicloprid.
Nitrogen concentration should be based, to a major extent, upon the frequency of application.
In nature, they typically see maybe 5 ppm N, but it often rains several times a day or at least daily. I am feeding at about 25-30 ppm N, every 2-3 days.
The 125 ppm N number is what the developers of the MSU formulas used in their greenhouses. There was absolutely no scientific basis to it - according to one of the PhD's involved "we tried it and it worked". I adopted it, and while my plants grew well, they really didn't bloom well. That has changed since I cut way back - I'm still getting great growth, and more blooms than ever before.
Generally, I think that if you flood the plants heavily when you feed, using a concentration that sums to 75-100 ppm weekly is a decent target. I realize that concentrations don't really sum, but what I'm saying is that if you feed once a week, use 75-100 ppm N. twice a week, 35-50, 3x = 25-35, or every two weeks, 150-200.
Orchids are very undemanding of fertilizer loading; when in doubt, choose less, rather than more.
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10-04-2014, 08:11 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Paris
Age: 57
Posts: 704
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The common knowledge here (France) is to follow the prescription for orchids if there's one (rarely…)
If there's none, follow the dilutions either for roses or tomatoes. There's usually one around.
Now, in doubt, if leaves for example are thin or prone to make problems with chemicals, is to dilute more but I have no rule to give there…
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10-20-2014, 10:29 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 57
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Not sure if this helps but try this formula
C1 x V1 = C2 x V2
Initial concentration (C1) times initial volume (V1) equals final concentration (C2) times final volume (V2)
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