I think that sounds like a very fool proof system. How long are your seedlings when you deflask?
Perhaps you give smaller ones some more time to get out of the flask? Some of my stans had full leaves and small pseudo bulbs, but others were as small as an 1" long only. Similarly some of my zygos were even smaller.
Anyway they seem to have survived for a month now, with only about 3 or 4 demises succumbing to root rot and a bit of fungus problem. The small zygo tray underwent near weekly transplants, as I kept taking them from frying pan to frier, so to speak (ice-trays with no drainage; to a tray of peanut packing, coir and sphag moss layers which got a bit of fungus; and then to their present abode atop a wire shelf layered with coir and cleaned up sphag)
I should have left well alone, except last week I read the following and it seemed like a great process to try - now I'm keeping my fingers crossed - feels like a roller-coaster ride!!
How to Grow Stanhopeas; edited April 2007
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"From Joe Shragge (Salt Lake City, Utah):
"When raising Stanhopea seedlings in community pots, I have found they like lots and lots of water. So I place the compot (usually 4 ½ pot) in a 32 oz Dannon Yogurt container. Then pore water over the plants and fill up the Yogurt container until the compot slightly raises. The seedlings stay in the water/bath for approximately 30 minutes. Then the compot is taken out and left to dry until the next watering, which is usually in 2 to 3 days. When fertilizing, they soak for 15 minutes in plain water, followed with the fertilizer bath for 15 minutes. I use the same container with the same compot each time. This may not be practical for large amounts of seedlings. But it does work well and the seedlings grow quickly..."
"...I have been making several Stanhopea crosses for the past several years. I have been using a fertilizer that is called Bloom Plus 10-60-10, my thinking is strong roots has to have a bearing on the health of the seedlings."
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