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About containers
hello to everybody! I have a question (well, a couple of them) and i hope you can help me with them :)
So, about containers that can be user for SH. I can find a lot of orchid pots with holes in them and that is what confuses me and i`ll tell you why. 1. If i use pot with holes in the bottom of the pot with plastic saucer as a water reservoir - should i provide additional holes in the pot for better air movement? 2. if i do NOT have to make them than is it the same as using, for example glass vases without holes and with some water on the bottom of the vase? I saw some people grow orchids like that, but i have some concerns about that method and the main is air movement. 3. if i should provide extra holes in the pot - how many? because i saw some pots with pre-made holes in them from bottom to the top and i just think that it can be too much air and for some orchids, especially for those that love moisture it will be too dry. 4. If anybody has an experience with any food containers that you use for SH - can you recommend any brands? amazon has tons of them :( thanks in advance! P.S. sorry for possible mistakes - English is not my native |
I don't add any holes beyond what I need for drainage. As far as using plastic food containers, since I try to have my plants outside as much as possible they tend to degrade after a year or 2 of exposure to UV. If you grow exclusively indoors, they'll probably be fine. I prefer glass so I can keep an eye on the roots, particularly during the initial transition to s/h. Drilling holes in glass is easy if a bit tedious, as long as you start with reasonably thick glass and don't put pressure on the drill.
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The holes serve to set the depth of the reservoir and to allow flushing. There is plenty of air flow around the LECA pellets.
Adding more holes will facilitate evaporation of the water from lower in the pot, defeating the wicking. I have never, in almost 30 years of S/H growing, seen or heard of roots overheating from exposure to light - if the pot warms, the water evaporates faster, cooling it. |
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I use 1 quart plastic soup containers from Smart & Final. They sell them in packages of 25 for very little money. I have seen S&F in Miami so you probably have them, too. The S&F stores here also sell heavy cream for my coffee for about 1/3 what it costs in supermarkets.
You can drill two small holes with a Dreml tool or a drill, and a conical sanding burr. Ray recommends they be an inch / 2.5cm from the bottom. Don't make the holes too big. The medium falls out, and it's hard to fill the pot while water runs out. Make the holes small enough and close enough together you can occlude both with the heel of your thumb when holding the pot to fill it. Completely filling every S/H container at every watering is important to flush salts and to replace all the air. You can mimic S/H drilled pots by standing regular pots in dishes of water, and always keeping water in the dish. You still need to water by completely filling the pot to the rim each time. This can be hard with a standard pot due to the large holes. In this case I would put the pot into another container without holes for watering. I would NOT use the standing dish technique where mosquitos are a threat. If you use the standing dish with a clay pot, the evaporation will keep the roots cooler than they would be with a non-permeable pot. Non-drilled glass can be used. Fill the container to the brim, then empty most of it. Extra holes would lead to the reservoir evaporating even faster. LECA provides plenty of air to the roots. I suggest not making extra holes. Regarding water-filled glass vases heating roots... almost everything on the Internet, news or educational, is mostly wrong, written/video'd by idiots or crooks. |
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My experimentation led me to there being 2 holes of 1/4", 6mm diameter, about one inch, 25mm up from the bottom in the sidewall, placed as close together as possible without intersecting.
In larger, taller pots, I'll occasionally make the reservoir deeper. The proximity of the two holes is for guaranteed drainage - a LECA pellet can block a hole, but if the other hole is very close, that pellet will prevent the other from being similarly blocked. |
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