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Vanda roots dying
Hi,
I have a number of Vanda's, and while they are doing ok The root systems on a couple are a bit of an issue. A couple of the root systems seem always dry. One was a plant given to me and was a bit poorly when I received it, and while it flowers well the root system look bad. The other was a purchased plant. To explain issue of the plant given to me: Most of the roots are thin dry shrivelled up looking in appearance and appear to have no life. Location: Currently the plant is in full sun Care: Receives a good water spray in the morning for about 5 - 6 mins and fertilised regularly. I have noticed new roots starting to form so figure this plant is on the improve. My question for this one, should I cut the dry dead roots off or just leave. Other options? The other plant: The roots are looking good till the 100 mm point and the ends just die and brown off. This one is in full flower and is in the same position as above and receives the same treatment. My other Vanda's look good and receive the same treatment as the above two. All my other Vandas bar one are under 70% shade. So I assume the location is one of the primary causes or is it a combination of fertiliser burn and full sun the issue. None of the above? Possible Remedy: relocate under the 70% shade and see what happens? Any other things I should consider. Any assistance most welcomed and thanks in advance. Brian |
Root tips dying back can be from thrips, but vanda roots commonly get infected with fusarium. Besides good culture I have found a regular routine of spraying fungicide to be the only good prevention/solution. That is, a combination of thiomyl and dithane.
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I have been having the same sort of problem with my vasco. I noticed that the vanda that I have in vase culture has beautiful roots, so I decided to try putting the whole basket with the bare root plant in to a plastic bag and soaking the plant thoroughly once a week. I mist it daily. It is beginning to grow some new roots. Don'y cut of roots unless you are positive they are dead. Sometimes they sprout new life.
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Hi,
Appreciate your responses. I currently spray / mist one a week with a product called Hy - San, this is a product recommended by a number of orchid people at shows as the stuff to use as a fungicide. Basically it says on the container - has a strong bacteriolytic action and acts as a bio - disinfectant solution against a wide range of harmful organisms in a host of applications. Contents: Stabilised hydrogen peroxide 3.% and hydrous oxide 97%. Will look for the fungicide mentioned in your response. Will take some photos and post may assist in seeing what I'm talking about. Thanks Brian |
You never stated what kind of vanda which is most important. Given you said its in full sun, it could simply be the wrong conditions for your plant and as a result demands more water than you are giving it.
Are they strap leaf vandas or semi-terete? |
1. I wouldn't necessarily assume that it is best to grow Vandas in full sun, no matter which type they are. Sure some Vandas grow bright, but NOT ALL Vandas grow in bright light. Plus, full sun can be pretty strong depending on where you are in the world. I'd be extremely cautious about sticking every Vanda you purchase in full sun from the get go.
2. Yes, I agree with "CR7cristiano", please mention the types of Vandas you have. If they are species, please mention the species name if possible. If they are hybrids, please provide the name of the hybrid if you know what they are. 3. How are they being grown? Are they in net pots? Are they in plastic baskets? Are they in wood slat baskets? Are they mounted onto a piece of wood? Are they mounted on a piece of log? Are they mounted onto a tree? Are they in clear plastic pots? Are they in clay pots? Are they in opaque plastic pots? Are they grown with large grade bark as a potting mix? Are they being grown without potting media? Which is it? Different methods of growing present different sets of challenges. It would be of great help to those who are willing to help you to mention what it is the orchid is growing on/in. I personally cannot grow a Vanda in a basket without any potting media here in the Southern California region. It simply is not possible without giving me a large amount of problems. 4. Fungicide is the least of your concerns, and is probably not going to solve your problem long-term. You see, what me and "CR7cristiano", and quite possibly what "Vanda Lover" are getting at is that this is a problem with the method of cultivation, not a disease organism problem. I recommend that the spraying of chemicals, fungicides, and pesticides stop immediately. Hydrogen peroxide kills cells, that's why it is used in disinfection. This is something that shouldn't be used on a regular basis at all. If used too often, it may leave sores or lesions that are not visible to our naked eye open for infection. Again, please read about the chemicals you are using before applying them. (Disclaimer: I am not trying to sound condescending - there was a time as recently as 1 - 2 years ago when I myself didn't understand the full ramifications of the chemicals I was using. So please be cautious when dealing with chemicals.) I don't know what kind of "hydrous oxide" your chemical spray contains, but I wouldn't continually add this chemical compound on anything unless I knew exactly what it was and what it does to certain organisms. The term "hydrous oxide" is apparently a rather nebulous term in the world of chemistry. The company producing this product could be dodging something…what that is I don't know. Please click on the following link and it will give you some insight on "hydrous oxide": The Constitution of Colloidal Systems of the Hydrous Oxides. - Chemical Reviews (ACS Publications) Hopefully, this article will shed some light on what you are likely to be unknowingly spraying on your Vanda's roots. From here you are free to do your own research and find out about "hydrous oxide". Bottom line is… Change the way the orchid is grown, and you will get the results you want. If the way they are grown does not change, you will continue to have the same problems over-and-over again; I can guarantee it. 5. Yes, please do provide photos whenever possible, it will do a world of good to those who are willing to help you. |
I have av. Tessalata and it just seems that the particular type doesn't grow many roots at all but flowers constantly. Also while flowering, usually the roots will stop growing and Brown on the tips
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Hi,
Thanks for all the comments. King_of_orchid_growing - no offence taken. I will admit I have no idea about orchids, I just like them and I find it simply relaxing after a working. I am also well aware I'm on a huge learning curve and will trip up many times as I stumble my way forward. The fungicide was recommended by a number of different orchid growers at a show so figured it would be ok and was used as they suggested. Ho Hum. My location is Australia - Queensland - Brisbane If this works out there should be 4 x photos. The first one is a NOID and was given to me. This one flowers plenty of times, last time it had 3 spikes and if you look at the photo (apricot) this is only one spike. never managed to see the 3 in full as I was away:( This one came from Darwin. This one the roots are just dry and shrivelling looking. There is a nice new growth at the base of the leaf, so figure is on the improve. I'm considering putting in the shade house which has 70% shade cloth and receives bright light most of the day. The 2nd one - Not sure if this is correct, seems to be written by a drunk doctor :scratchhead:(no offence to doctors intended) V Mid Rose x Somilt Blue I purchased this one from a show 6 week ago. This is the one the roots are browning off at about the 100 mm mark. It is planted loosely in New Zealand mid size bark. Again I feel I will relocate this one under the shade cloth. Anyway at this stage I will be relocating the orchids, stop the fungicide, and just use water for the time being may give a week solution of seaweed solutions. Any other advise most welcome. Brian Brian |
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