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Methods for 'evenly moist'
I was wondering if anyone can share there watering methods for keeping a certain species 'evenly-moist'.
As of right now everyone is on a wet-to-dry watering schedule because I had rot issues with my phals. Now, I'd like to try once again evenly moist on my non-psudobulb orchids. I'm going to try lightly misting my sphagnum enough so it doesnt get drenched but still wicks the moisture around the whole pot. |
To obtain a evenly moist pot, I like to use fine mediums (sphagnum, peat etc.) on the top half and coarser mediums (Bark, rocks, Styrofoam etc.) as I go down. I do this because the top tends to dry out faster than the bottom.
This method compensates for that, and prevents the bottom roots from rotting, and the top drying out. Basically, don't pot using one medium, use various ones, in layers/mixtures. I hope this is helpful! :goodluck: P.S To prevent crown rot, pot a quarter inch above the medium, so the beginning of the roots are visible. Also only water in the mornings, and must in warm weather. Also, maintaining a humid environment (60%+) will help your pots dry evenly. |
The key to preventing root rot is related more to medium selection than watering, meaning one should focus more on air than water.
As an evolutionary strategy to conserve water, epiphytic orchids have fewer leaf stomata and thicker cuticle layers on their leaves than do most terrestrial plants, so have evolved to do the majority of their gas exchange processes through their roots. It is, therefore, important that we do nothing that stifles that gas exchange. When we water, the liquid has four results: most pours right through, some is absorbed immediately by the plant, some is absorbed by the medium, and some is held in the spaces between the particles by surface tension. With a potting medium in which the voids are small - fine media, old, decomposing media, overly-compressed sphagnum, to name a few possibilities - the amount held by surface tension is great, and that water closes off the airflow pathways to the roots, suffocating them, so they die and rot. I am convinced that the old adage that "orchids must dry out between waterings" is a misinterpretation, when in fact, it is the crappy medium that must dry out, reopening those pathways so the roots can "breathe" again. So basically, if you have a very open medium with large voids - too big for surface tension to fully block - you can water very heavily without issue. |
I like to use a small net pot, about 1 1/2 -2" turned upside down in the bottom of your pot...place the plant on top of that, and media around the outside of the pot...that allows loads of air to the inside of the pot, and really increases your drainage rate....works with all sorts of orchids...gl!
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Plant in lava rock and water to your heart's content. You cannot overwater in lava rock, and it never breaks down. You also don't get the water held in by surface tension, as Ray mentioned.
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I use basket/net pots and I put larger pieces of lava rock in the bottom and middle and smaller on top. Everything dries out evenly.
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I do the same as Nora does with the net pot - OR, tuck some styrofoam into the center of the root mass ;) I do this for almost ALL my orchids - even drying of media, and a nice air pocket for the roots is appreciated by most orchids - even those that like to dry completely. |
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I am a fan of the lava. More organic material depends on if the plant loves moisture or wants to dry out in between. I like the "layers" approach.
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I've been using lava rock for about 3 months now and love it. Wont ever go back to a mix with out it in it.
I'm doing 1/2 lava rock, 1/2 orchiata bark and if a plant likes more moisture I add some shredded sphag at the top for the new roots |
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