Frustrated with big Cattelya's
 

Have had a few big cats for going on 4 years now and am getting frustrated by the lack of flowering. They are very healthy and growing great, but after producing sheaths on new growth they are turning brown and dying.

I think I am moving them too often....I moved from GA to FL last summer and this year they went in my screened in patio with filtered sun all day. I have since moved them to hang under my oak trees to get them less direct sun

I fertilize once a week with 30-10-30, and like I said, they are all very healthy, new growths and new roots

I've attached a few photos to give you an idea of what I'm talking about

Thoughts?
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You may be giving them too much nitrogen. Many cattleyas have a distinct growing season and a blooming season. I'm sure your 30-10-30 is fine when the orchid is growing but might be too much nitrogen in the fall and winter when the plant should bloom. How much of the 30-10-30 are you using per gallon? Also does your fertilizer contain calcium and magnesium?

could be a little too much shade too...my big cats bloom best when they are exposed to strong sunlight...the leaves get pale looking but man do they ever flower and grow!!...cats like the very hi canopy in the jungle, not the low shade....gl I hope they present you with many blossoms!

I think they were getting too much light before......no shade all day..only filtered by patio screen

Tucker ....here is the fert.......sorry it's 20-10 20...I use the recommended amt....

So cats aren't summer bloomers?

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That's about 132 ppm nitrogen which should be fine. In October you should cut back to half that amount. Since you're growing outdoors where the plants get a lot of rain water I would also recommend a calcium/magnesium supplement if you don't mind spending the extra money. You can buy it at hydroponics stores or online. I use one called Magical at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water twice a month. It's best to use it by itself, not mixed with fertilizer. Aside from that, I don't know why they won't bloom. Good luck.

Thanks tucker....will give it a shot.....my wife keeps telling me just to quit worrying and leave them alone! Maybe she's on to something

Flower induction and flowering season depend on the species. Most Cattleya species flower only once a year, and induction is controlled by variation in daylength, variation in humidity and rain or variation in temperature.
After the new pbulb is finished, I would reduce watering and give a rest, so that the plant does not immediately start to thrive anew.
The background is that many orchids go through a vegetative and a generative phase. Try to clearly stop the vegetative phase at the end of the growth cycle.

Some cattleyas grow during the summer, finish, rest (no fertilizer), then a few months later, bloom. Sometimes the dried sheath fills up later with buds so don't remove those. I agree with adding calcium and magnesium. During the growing season, it helps with the growth. Good luck!

Hi Tucker, I just ordered MagiCal, eBay seller, $18.79/liter, which will last me quite some time, and free shipping, so it was not at all so expensive:-) Will try it and will see, my Cattleyas are not blooming also, and they are growing outside so maybe this will help:-))) Thanks for tip

Big catts need 3 or 4 pbulbs behind the new one to flower. If there is not enough energy stored in the mass they will throw blind sheaths. The pics lead me to believe there is enough light. Good color. Also there may be too much N as a ratio to PK. Just because the K is high doesn't mean the plant will switch from vegetative growth to flowering. High N keeps the plant in the vegetative mode. I have been changing the ratio when the pbulb is half matured and have had good results. The LC Issy I am showing here right now is a product of that scheme. It has not flowered on this division before. There always was lots of new pbulb growth but only blind sheaths. I switched the ratio in May when the pbulb was halfway to maturity. I also have some others I've experimented with and they now have big fat buds in the sheaths. Not scientific I know. But if you are giving good food and good quality light with good clean water, then something needs changing. Lower the N as a ratio to PK and see what happens. Remember that in nature the orchid grows pbulbs during the rainy season, initiates flowers when it is halfway to maturity and then when the rains stop, it flowers. :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: ;)