Mg and/or Fe deficiencies
 

My newly imported M. ayabacana looks like its suffering a deficiency. Plant equivalent to anemia. One by one, the leaves are losing color. I think either Mg or Fe but not sure. Its not precious enough to work out something with the grower.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...2/CIMG0463.JPG

Has anyone experienced this?

I feed weakly weekly with 20-20-20 (0.05% Cu, 0.10% Fe, 0.05% Mn, 0.0005% Mo, 0.05% Zn). My water has
<0.04-8.2 ppm Mg. Is that sufficient (I don't want to do the math per Ray's info) for recovery? Go buy epsom salt?

My first ? Is... How are the roots? What ppm N you feeding @? Are you in semi hydro(clay balls)?


Looking at what you feed with.. I would highly recommend switching to MSU or K-lite.

Ideally, You want Ca levels to be about equal with N and Mg about 1/4-1/3 Ca.

I only have a dozen or so plants-granted they cannot be picked up at the supermarket-I really can't justify buying more and more things. I need to work with what I have as much as possible since I have more supplies than plants.

Just looked this up: 3-24 ppm Ca in water supply

Epsom salt will get me the Mg. How do I get Fe (rusty nail?) and Ca (egg shell?) and how much?

Just realized I've done the "forest for the trees" thing in reverse.

My regimen works for me. I just need to fix one plant.

Will temporarily boosting some nutrients correct this? Or will it correct itself before I loose all chlorophyll?

I'm not sure you're seeing a nutritional deficiency at all.

A magnesium deficiency usually manifests as chlorotic mottling in older leaves first, starting at the center of the leaves. If moves outward and to new leaves as the deficiency worsens. Having said that, applying a teaspoon of Epsom Salts per gallon of fertilizer cannot hurt anything.

The iron demand of plants is pretty low to start with - even lower in orchids - but your fertilizer appears to have plenty.

I had seen the same problem with a few masd. in the past and it ended up being my root system, or lack there of. I repotted them and soaked the green moss I used in seaweed extract and I have new root with in a week and a half.

Your ppm of Ca should be close to in ppm to N. As far as egg shells go... Waste of time in my opinion because you need to have help in the form of mycorrhiza to break it down it useable form of Ca for the plant.. Plus it would take to long to break down. You can buy Ca nitrate, CaMg supplement, complete fertilizer, soak bone meal over night in water, or reduce your N to 20-30 ppm and water with your tap water. 3 ppm Ca is a lot different the 24 ppm, but I think your Ca ppms need to be in the 50 range with the ppms of N your currently feeding.

I feed about 35 ppm N of Klite @ every watering and I like the results I'm getting.

It well be a slow process to regain the green. New roots(tips) are the main source of Ca uptake.

I would also recommend going over to slipper talk and searching for k-lite... Very good info in those threads.

:hello Not one person has suggested it might be a lack of light... :waving If this was a newly imported plant, remaining in a packing crate and then in a dark building for a prolonged time, this could be the cause. The larger leaf already seems to be turning greener at the base..

Cym Ladye: I initially thought that and put it in appropriate light. Its lightening, not greening.

Above is the most pronounced chlorosis. The lightening progressed since I took that pic. That leaf isn't mushy soft but tender/delicate compared to others.

The supplement was easier than above. I picked up CaMg+ at the hydroponics store. :lol:

:crossfing because this is the replacement for the one that rotted out before I looked up the culture.

Thanks all.

And I will switch fertilizers when I've used up what I have.