Dend jenkinsii
 

While at Taida orchids in bridgewater NJ picking up phals for the nursery, I saw they had about 5 jenkinsii on mounts hanging on some lattice. These were the only other orchids besides about 10,000 phals. 3 were dead, but two were salvagable with a good plump cluster of bulbs. they had lost all their leafs though. they gave me one for $10. I was happy to notice new growth while cleaning it up. A good score cause I'm really in to the aggregate type dends right now. Any advice on this plant? I'll assume to treat it like aggregatum for now. Can post pics tomorrow if wanted...

I'd love to see the pics! I can't give you advice, but I'll listen to what others will tell you. I also like aggregate type dens, and am thinking of getting one soon.

I have this...it is also called Dendrobium aggregatum

This is a miniature, usually best mounted, as I am growing it mounted in a tree fern slab. Needs a dry winter rest. Bright light. Plants skirt themselves with pendant clusters of bright yellow flowers in mid-spring. The flowers usually take up more space than the plant when in full bloom. Feeds a lot and drinks a lot after blooming do this up til fall, then neglect them - cool temps, little water, no fertilizer. Keep the light bright year round.
This Den. belongs to the Callista species and is native to Burma, northern India and southern China. Other species in the Callista family include: Den. chrysotoxum, Den. densiflorum, Den. farmeri. These are classified as dwarf dendrobiums. They do not grow into tall canes but have short spindle-shaped pseudobulbs bearing thick, leathery leaves. These Den. are 'evergreen', which means they do not drop their leaves as some of the tall cane ones.
Watering is a crucial element for this orchid. (and may be the most difficult regimen to follow!) During spring and summer, water well when growth is developing. Be generous with your watering and fertilizing. As Autumn approaches, it is important to cut back on your watering and fertilizing schedule. It require dry conditions in the winter. During the fall and winter, water your plant only enough to keep the pseudobulbs from shriveling and dying. Be aware that the pseudobulbs will become wrinkly during this dormant period. You will need to learn the distinction between what is considered wrinkly and when the orchid will need some water to keep it from dying. Don't fertilize at this time. This severe drying and rest period is difficult to do especially if you are heavy handed with the water or if you are more accustomed to watering. But stick with it!
As Spring arrives and flower buds begin to emerge, increase your watering schedule. Water well while flowering and with the signs of new growth. As late Spring and Summer progress, increase watering and water thoroughly. If the tips of the leaves begin to brown, reassess how much fertilizer you are providing. Perhaps the concentration is too high and the leaves are experiencing some fertilizer burn. Or try changing your watering schedule. Determine how your orchids respond to any regimen you have established and be flexible to change if needed.
Watch out for spider mites. They love to live among the pseudobulbs. Spider mites are difficult to rid and will suck the life and energy out of the plant. If your plant takes a downward turn, begins to yellow, check carefully for any infestation.

Hi,

jenkinsii is different from lindleyi (was aggregatum) in that the number of flowers per inflorescence are fewer.

It has the same culture as lindleyi. Bright shadecloth sun & winter rest with cooler temps to get great blooms.

No fertilizer until it throws new growth in the late winter. Then let it get intermediate temps, more light and start to water and fertilize.

If it acts like lindleyi it will sulk at being disturbed. They don't like to be remounted. Mounting is best to show off the pendulous bloom.

Thanks for the Info. I would have liked to leave it on its mount, but it was obviously in need of new one. It was mounted on some driftwood that had really gotten rotten and spongy under the cluster of bulbs. I expect it to recoup after a couple of years on its cork mount.