A few different potting methods for Phalaenopsis
 

Most phalaenopsis are epiphytes. Epiphytes are plants that live clinging to other plants, mainly trees. Phalaenopsis have thick fleshy roots that attach them selves to the bark. Because of this, they cannot be grown as traditional house plants. They needs fast draining media that allows for good aeration within the roots. There are many different ways of potting a Phalaenopsis. There four main ways of growing Phalaenopsis are bark, sphagnum moss, semi-hydroponics, mounting and coconut husk chips.

Fir bark is probably the most popular way of growing Phalaenopsis. They can be grown either in straight bark or a mixture of bark and other ingredients. The main ingredients added are perlite, coarse charcoal, and sphagnum moss. Perlite is used for its aeration qualities. Coarse charcoal is inert and gives good drainage. Some think it they may also adsorb toxins and acids from the root-zone. Finally, sphagnum moss is used to increase the water retention. Because Phalaenopsis grow on trees in nature, bark is ideal, since it creates a good surface for the roots to grasp. Although there are MANY different mixes, I use a 50/50 mix of coarse fir bark and medium grade charcoal.


Probably the second most popular medium for Phalaenopsis is sphagnum moss. Sphagnum moss is either added to other mixes or used alone. Either way it provides excellent water retention. Whether or not you can successfully use Sphagnum moss alone as a medium depends on your growing conditions. You must be careful with sphagnum moss, because of its water retention qualities it is easy to over-water. Many big companies use straight sphagnum moss, because it holds water during shipping and is typically clean, so it can easily be imported and exported. It must be remembered that Sphagnum moss hold a lot more water than bark. One must be careful not to over water in this type of potting.


Semi-hydroponics is a relatively new technique. It is a method of using the wicking properties of L.E.C.A. to provide water to the roots of the plant. L.E.C.A. stands for Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate; it is inert so it won’t decompose. It has capillary action that allows it to wick water up from the reservoir into the root-zone. The pot should have a few small quarter-inch holes about one inch up, creating a reservoir at the bottom of the pot. The plants should then be potted as you would with any other media, except that, instead of pressing down the media, pot should be shaken to let the media flow in around the root system. When watering using this technique, water should be run through the medium and down into the reservoir.


Mounting is the most natural way to grow Phalaenopsis and other epiphytes because it mimics the way that these orchids naturally grow on trees. However, mounting is not well suited for the average home grower. Because its roots are attached with only a thin layer of sphagnum moss for moisture, mounted Phalaenopsis will be subject to very quickly. It will need watered every day or so, depending on humidity and the amount of sphagnum moss between the roots and the mount. There are many different materials you can mount on. Some examples are cedar, driftwood, grapevine, treefern, and epiweb.


Potting with coconut husk chips (chc) is similar to using bark, but it holds more moister and creates an airier environment. Like bark potted orchids, they can be grown either in straight chc or a mixture of chc and other ingredients. The main ingredients added are perlite, coarse charcoal, and sphagnum moss. Perlite is used for its aeration qualities. Coarse charcoal is inert and gives good drainage. Some think that it may also absorb toxins and acids from the root-zone. Phalaenopsis grow on trees in nature, and chc is very bark-like; therefore chc’s creates a good surface for the roots to grasp. As with all media, the quality is very important.

Nice informative post, you should put it up in the article section as well, so it's with all the other informative stuff.

Once comment; could you add some spacing between the paragraphs? It's such a long text it would be much easier to read that way. :)

Good information here but, I agree with Camille, it's a bit difficult to read with it being all single-spaced and no paragraph breaks.

:)

ditto i can't read it . I thought this section was for people to ask questions regarding what they are trying to pot or repot ...ect . Nice article but better in the article section ..

And if you turn it into an article you can also add some pics in it. That would be very nice for beginners who are reading it! :)

This is probably a stupid question, but how are chc airier than bark chips? I repotted my phal a few weeks ago in bark chips. This is a great article! It's so informative!

It's actually in the article section. Lol. It was just buried a bit. I bought I added the spaces by apparently not. I added them now, so I should help. I put it here as well, just to help people if they are looking in the repotting section and see it, it might help answer some questions.


You can call me Bob ;)

that is a very good question, one that i cannot supply an answer with. i have only grown a few things in CHC, but i stopped because bark worked better for me. the section on CHC was based on what i have been told, and the research i did for the article... hopefully someone who knows the answer to your question

The "airiness" of a potting medium is dependent, to some extent, on the specific materials used, but paerticle size, shape, and size distribution play a large role, as well.

If you have bark and CHC that were identical, except for the material itaself, the amount of open space would be identical. However, as CHC tends to be more "spongelike" than bark, if a fixed amount of water was poured over them, more of the water that might be held between the particles by surface tension (the "bridging water") will be sucked into the particles themselves.

I think that from a practical perspective, however, our watering makes that insignificant.

thankyou mr ray!!! always helpful