Repotting a Cymbidium - Do I wash off all existing medium like on other other orchids
 

Ok... so I've now got my Cymbidium media (got a Cym mix recomended by one of the nursaries here) and I think I have a suitable pot and my Cym is desperate for repotting...

so do I want to remove all existing medium like I would with other orchid repotting or is it more like the ones where you leave the old medium and just add more to fill the new pot? :scratchhead:

Also is it completely the wrong time of year to do this? I wanted to do it in the spring but just didn't get myself organised enough. Should I go ahead now (the existing pot is struggling to fit all the new root growth from the new lead growths and I would like to give it more space) or should I wait?

I always remove all the old media. It's likely there are dead roots in the center.
I don't think there's any harm in repotting now, tho I'm not sure if it may inhibit blooming later this year or not.
I'm sure others may be able to advise you there.

Leave yourself plenty of time for repotting ;)

Rosie,

It is not necessary to wash off all the roots. Picking out the old mix is sufficient. But you should remove about 1/3 of the root ball from the bottom as well as any rotten roots. There are many other do's and don'ts about successful Cym. repotting, and if you wish a copy of the repotting procedures I continually update and have used at our club's workshops for over 15 years, I will be happy to send them to you privately.

It is not too late to repot. I am only 1/4 of the way through those of the ones I need to do this year. I hope to be through by the end of August. What you want is to have enough warm weather left in the growing season for the roots to become reestablished.

CL

Thanks WhiteRabbit and Cym Ladye

I'm interested about the removing 1/3 of the root ball... what is the reason for doing this.

If you don't mind sending me your repotting procedures that would be good. I will send you my email address privately.

Good to know I'm not too late. I think we still have lots of time for warm weather left so I will try and get it done soon.

Rosie,

The reason for the removal of the lower part of the root ball is to shorten the overall length of the roots. When the division is cleaned and ready for potting up, the roots should not reach the bottom of the pot where they can more easily rot due to the water tending to stay longer at the bottom. The removal of this root mass makes it easier to get the mix off the other roots and with less damage. There is more room for the eventual new root growth to go out into the new mix. No matter how careful one is, roots do break and it is the new root growth from the existing roots which support the plant. No point in filling up the pot with broken roots which will soon rot.

Cheers,

CL

Thanks CL, and thanks for all the advice you have sent me :)

How well do Cymbidiums grow in heat, in Florida, ?
I saw some in three gallons containers today, 2ft leaves, but it looked like they were planted in dirt. , maybe it was just broken down bark I was going to get one and thought I ought to check out the heat factor first.

I grow a couple of thousand cymbidiums in Jacksonville Florida. Growing is easy - flowering is maybe not so easy. Have written a lot and published in the "Social Groups" then "Cymbidiums" - Orchids3
Look at "Cymbidiums for NE Florida". Selecting the right plant has a lot to do with success as well as potting technique. Using media that stays soggy, breaks down fast or does not drain well is not good. For me dirt or dirt like media is out. I am using almost 100% Stalite gravel now mixed with very little CHC. Use a tablespoon of half dolomite lime and half crused sea shell on top of each gal pot. (Once a year to keep media from going acid) I set my pots in 1 inch pans of water. Grew cyms in Calif first before moving here 20 years ago - technique had to change.

With enough time, energy and expense, I feel it is possible to adapt your conditions for any orchid genera you may wish to grow. Commercial growers have a reason to expend this effort if it pays financially.

However, I have always felt that growing high quality, exhibition type, awardable Cymbidiums in Florida is akin to us here in Northern California trying to grow high quality vandaceous orchids. Yes, it can be done, but it is much more difficult and blooming is unreliable as Orchids3 said, to say the least.

Most warmth tolerant Cymbidiums just do not have the form accepted for awards today. They may get the occasional award in Florida but, in my opinion, could not compete if exhibited in California today, certainly in the Standard category. :twocents:

I was once told to "find that genera which grows best for you, diversify within that genera and grow a lot of it". It has worked for me for over 45 years. Do I know how to grow a vanda? YES. Do I choose to grow one? NO.
:waving

CL

It might be wise to point out that breeding Cymbidiums that grow well in our heat has led to strains that grow with a lot more ease anywhere. All in all its a worthwhile effort. I remember working on a test garden for the "American Rose Society" when a college student in Pocatello Idaho. The Idea was to find strains of Roses for that climate. The CSA and AOS have missed doing a great service for their communities by do participating in field trials and tests. Some of us old hard nosed growers like myself take upon themselves to do it on our own. I can grow and flower Cyms outside much easier than Vandas. I would send all the vandas to the tropics but enjoy seeing what others do and encouraging them.