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Cym. goeringii question
Hello all, hope that everyone's cymbids are throwing out spikes...I know that quite a few of mine are...though I have one problem plant (actually two): both are Cym. goeringii. Both of these grow like mad for me and put out spikes, the spikes zoom up a couple of inches, and then seem to die about half way down the stem. The buds appear fine, as does the growth in the pot--but the stem mid-way turns mushy. I am wondering if anyone else is having this problem. I am going to try growing them cool and dry this winter, with occasional watering from below (as this is similar to how they grew in my "back yard" when I lived in Japan), anyone have any further thoughts? Thanks & good growing,
Adam |
Sounds more like a temperature problem to me. What are the temps in Japan ?
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Long dry fall with mid 60F days and nights into the mid 40's; followed by mid 30's and snow (due to elevation) for a month or two...and then back up in the mid 50's to low 60's for spring. Though there is very little water during the winter months, aside from melting snow cover--no regular rains until the rainy season kicks in at the end of May. I'm theorizing that it is moisture related due to the fact that goeringii is usually a spring bloomer, and over most of its range it would experience cool and dryer conditions over the winter months--where I lived it would usually just start to come into bloom as the snow was melting...though this might also mean that I should aim to keep it below 40F during the day in winter as well... hmm... thanks for the input Des
Adam |
Quote:
You answered your own question. The best and most satisfactory way to grow any species is to try to duplicate the natural conditions under which it grows... easier said than done many times! :goodluck: |
I see most people growing these here in the San Francisco Bay Area very dry and cool in the winter. During the summer warm to hot and very moist!
Jeff |
If you are into these try looking at Information Korean & Chinese Orchid, Seed Flasking
The site is out of this world!!! I have it set as a favorite!! Jeff |
You should see the flower buds protruding out from the potting mix anywhere from early Sept to end of October. The protrusion is about 3cm-5cm. At the end of October, the flower buds go to dormacy. it will not develop until you provide the "cold treatment".
it is tricky to hold the flower buds. When you water, never water on the top, when I water, the water never touches the leaves and the flower buds any time of the year. If the water touches the buds, it can rot. In the height of winter (from Winter solstice to about the mid Feb), the plant is grown in a room that is near freezing 6C/42F to 11C/51F. The temp never exceed 14C/57F. When the temp during this time goes above 14C, Cymbidium goeringii goes into vegetative growth (starting to grow leaves) so divert the energy for flower bud formation, so the buds blast. Lastly, I keep the humidty in the room between 50%-70% which simulates Japan winter. Anything lower than this, the buds will also blast. |
Probably the most important factor to avoid loss of new growths or bloom spikes is adequate air movement. Most homes do not have this normally without the installation of fans.
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