How and when to cut back a spike on Phal and Paph
 

Several weeks ago I asked the question about how to cut the spike in a Phal. and I received not one reply. So, for your edification complements of Clayton L. Lowe

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As far as cutting Phal. (Phalaenopsis) spikes goes, try this:
If the spike is brown and shriveled cut back to the origin at the base of the plant.
If it is still alive then after the last bloom has faded follow the stem back to the first node and cut the stem ¼” above the node. Make your cut a clean one using a sharp instrument.
Then just wait, if it is a Phal. that re-blooms it will start a new stem from the node.

If you are talking about Paph. (Paphiopedilum) they will not re-bloom from the same stem so after the bloom has faded and the stem has turned brown cut it off at the origin at the base of the plant.

Phal strike
 

I've done exactly that same thing that's been advise by others in this forum; cut my strike back below the first nobe of first flower and it did nothing, so I've gone cut it back to the base where the strike came out and now my Phal is growing in leaps and bounds; new leaves and roots but no strike. Like what has been said before if Phal. strong enough it will rebloom on the same strike next blooming season or won't. You have to be patient.

Thank you so much! I have been wondering the same questions!

I have a paph that just opened and then after 2 days fell off! Now it looks like a seed pod is developing ~ but I'll have to post that somewhere else and take pics!

I'll usually leave the spike on after flowering until around October (northern hemisphere). If, by then, there's no sub-spiking or keikis, I'll cut it down to the base and prepare it for the upcoming spiking season. The odds are better that the spikes will be strong and budding, optimum when the plant has had a chance to regain it's strength, so to speak. If old spikes haven't given off new buds by then, to hell with them.<------can I say that?:coverlaugh:

I personally prefer to cut spikes all the way back when they are finished. I have found that secondary blooms aren't all that great. I'd rather have the plant go through a growth cycle so it will be ready to spike again in the winter. The blooms on a new spike are nearly always larger and more numerous than from a secondary bloom.

Note that the instructions were to cut 1/4" above the
next node. This doesn't always work. However, I'm with Terri. Unless it's obvious that another branch is starting, I prefer to cut the spike all the way back and give it a fresh start for the following year. :)

As a personal preference, I look at the condition of the Phalaenopsis before deciding what to do with the spike. If the plant has four or more healthy leaves that are not shrivelled and are firm, it can support producing a second smaller flower spike coming off the original. I personally do not allow second blooming on 99% of my Phalaenopsis (plants with more stored energy always produce a stronger flower spike the following season) and cut the spike off all the way at the base, as close to the mother plant as possible. No matter what type of cut I am making, I will always sterilize the utensil first with heat.

When it comes to Paphiopedilums. I prefer to let the flower stem dry up and turn brown before i cut the spike off. This way I know there are no additional buds developing..... and there is no chlorophyll present to transmit any possible viruses, bacteria or disease. I would make a "cosmetic cut" on the Paphs, in other word, I cut it low enough so it was not an eye-sore but not so low that I hat to go digging down in the crown of leaves :)