Hi Everyone! :)
 

Hi Everyone!

Well, new to this site, but definitely not new to orchids. Have been growing orchids for over 20 years both as a hobbyist and commercially. I am certified species and miniature addict with special emphasis on the African and Madagascan species.

I recently moved to the USA and am slowly getting my collection back to its former glory. Nothing is worse than having to leave acres of greenhouses full of orchids to nothing.

My main focus in breeding was with Polystachya, Bonatea, Stenoglottis, Aerangis, Ansellia, Mystacidium and of course the more commonly grown varieties.

If anyone has questions about the African or Madagascan species, I'm your guy! :drool:

Hello Keegan600 Welcome to the OB! :waving

Such a shame to leave your 'chids behind, hopefully you'll get them all back soon :biggrin:

I hope you have a good time here, we are big fans of :photo: and your expert advice is always welcome as well.

Make yourself at home!

Priz

Welcome to the board! I really like to grow the Angraecoids, mostly in a Wardian case at high humidity. I plan to pick your brain from time to time on problem 'chids like Amesiella monticola. Why does it start to spike then stop and dry up the spike? Conditions: 22C winter to 29C summer, 90%+ humidity, 900-1000 foot candles light. Roots and leaves grow wonderfully. Medium green leaves (not too dark).

Hi Ross!

Well I have good news and bad news for you..... the good news is, you are doing everything just perfect, Amesiella monticola is one of three plants that are really prone to aborting spikes (Aerangis elisii and Aerangis brachycarpa to some degree thereafter). I have tried absolutely everything to stop it from happening and the only thing that seemed to work for me was move fans in front of the plants when in bloom and the abortion rate dropped by 45%. I wish I could say I figured that out but someone else told me to try that and when I asked why I was told to just do it! :)

Interestingly enough though, I tagged the aborters on the second year, and they continued to abort every year thereafter. Not once did I have to tag a bloomer as an aborter, so I suspect it is something genetic, but thats far beyond my expertise. The air movement does help though.

That's amazing info! I thought it might be the fan that was doing the deed so moved the plant out of the breeze! Notta on spikes since then. I have a new plant and will watch that one. It is also in a breeze (PC fan 24/7) so might be a keeper. Glad to have this info. Here is my tank, by the way:

http://www.orchidboard.com/community...bs/DSC2677.jpg http://www.orchidboard.com/community...bs/DSC2676.jpg

:welcome: Keegan600
It's great to have another experienced person on the board. Lord knows I need all the help I can get :rofl:

Hi Keegan :)
Welcome to the USA, Florida and Orchidboard!!! :dance13:

I have the feeling you are going to be a real asset to our community :) Our members worldwide are the best of the best...folks with decades of experience and folks just starting out all sharing the ups and downs...and rewards...of growing orchids :)

Thanks for the info on the Amesiella monticola, I can't get mine to do much of anything but survive ;)

I also just received my first Mystacidium (capense, mounted)...any hints? I grow my chids in a room off the lanai...and all around the lanai :coverlaugh:

If you need help with anything, feel free to ask :)

Hi Susanne!

Thanks so much for the welcome!

The Mystacidiums still make my hear skip a beat everytime I see one of them, and their fragrance in the evening is simply intoxicating! They are my second favorite orchid out there and are incredibly easy to grow. The only way to kill one as far as I am concerned is to water them too late and allow crown rot to set in.

Wind movement is essential for optimal growing of Mystacidiums, and they definitely have to be mounted! I have grown them on everything from clay slabs, to cork to woody branches and they all loved it! I will say one thing, the ones that I mounted on thin branches did incredibly well, especially when non anchoring roots were allowed to hang down from the mount as they do in the wild. I would use a small a small amount of moss and place the plant on top of it and mount it with the help of nylon stocking cut into strips. I HATE wire and fishing wire for mounting orchids, but thats just a personal preference. My greenhouses never dropped below 80% humidity and the Mystacidiums were watered daily by overhead sprinklers for 30 minutes. My stud breeding plants were all watered by hand (I think my employees must have really hated me haha) and the Mystacidiums in that collection were left to soak in a tray of water a bit warmer than room temperature. They were fed a balanced fertilizer every week and just loved it.

Grow it up..... they make amazing specimens. I would highly recommend this orchid to anyone.

Mystacidium capense. Easy and Showy
Mystacidium braybonae. Some forms of this species are even more showy than capense. Also very easy to grow. Roots spread as opposed to hanging.
Mystacidium venosum. Grows really well and clumps nicely. Great smell at night.
Mystacidium gracile. Not As showy, sometimes leafless, not too easy to find and a bit trickier to grow but still pretty

Hey Keegan,
Welcome to the states and the board. My passion is for miniatures or at least compacts. I grow mostly species Phals, however my next purchase will be an Aerangis. Nice to have an expert on the subject. You are why this board is so great. Friendly and knowledgeable people with the willingness to help.
thanks,
Neil

Keegan, thanks so much for the information :bowing

I think I can do that!!! (/udb)

:crossfing