cattleya bud or new leaf?
 

I am really frustrated with 2 of my cattleya's. I've had them for years and they will NOT bloom. I've provided good care. Full sun, fertalization, etc. Any tips?
Should I shorten the length of daylight to stimulate flowering?
I am just at a complete loss to figure out their problem.
I've attached a picture of one of them. I can't tell if this is a potential bud/flower or just a new leaf growth.
Any ideas?

That's a new growth...Catts bloom mostly from a sheath.
Together with light, some of them need cool nights (16ºC) to bloom.

Hi Rhonda, I am still a Cattleya novice but I have learnt a thing or two from other Orchids and I find it applies to Cattleya's too. I know the number 1 reason places say for lack of flowering is lack of light and sure that can be a factor but for me it has been the substrate or the watering frequency that has been the number 1 reason.
If the substrate dries too fast or stays too soggy then my orchids rarely flower well.
I personally cannot grow in moss, I keep overwatering it and I don't think I would ever be able to flower something in moss either. So my advice would be to try something else to moss. It sounds like yu have tried everything else already

edit: looking at the leaves, I thikn they could receive more light however, they have no reddening or sun burn so have not experienced all they can handle yet..

:helloI live in Michigan too, on the east side of the state. I've found with mine I have to supplement with grow lights when I have them inside. Not sure if you're using them already or not.

Yeah I grow under grow lights in the winter. I am thinking that since I have them on for 12 hours they may not being getting the natural daylength clue that its time to boom. One of my catts did bloom once when it wasn't under lights.

The dark green color of the plant indicates it can take a lot more light than its currently receiving. If the lights just aren't strong you might need to increase the day length. Move light closer and/or longer photo-period. Otherwise it looks pretty healthy-

Also - I think some catts actually do grow many bulbs before they begin to produce some bulbs that will produce a sheath or flower spikes.

The first post mentions had it for years. But that could also means the orchid didn't have as many bulbs as it does now ------ as in ..... less bulbs or more juvenile back then (some years ago).

From the looks of the orchid in its current condition ----- maybe all it will take is just more waiting ----- and upping the light intensity if required (depending on leaf colour).

It's actually possible that you don't need to change your method of growing. Some catts just need time to get big enough ------ enough bulbs. And then they will flower.

comletely agree to try increasing light or even a different grow light but increasing light intensity is not the same as increasing light duration and should not be treated as the same thing.

It would be similar to trying to cook a pizza in half the time at double the temperature but you can't and neither should you try double the intensity for half the time with plants or increase light hours to increase light.

The light hours tell the plant what time of year it is, when to flower, when to rest and so on.

1. The vast majority of orchids are tropical and can be grown under lights between 10-14 hours per day. You don't have to change the photoperiod that much because tropical orchids do not experience much change. Plenty of growers grow at 14 hours a day without changing their light timer ever. Some species might need photo-period changes to flower but only one comes to my mind which is cattleya walkeriana and even that isn't settled.
2. Your pizza example is not good. Wood fired pizza is literally cooking the pizza at 500F for a quicker cook time.
3. If the orchids are not getting enough light at this 12 hour photoperiod moving the lights closer is the easiest fix here. Intensity CAN be a substitute for lack of day-length in reasonable contexts.

Here is a DLI chart. If we use reasonable constraints, 10-14 hour photoperiod, 250-400 PPFD you can clearly see that there is multiple ways to achieve the desired amount of photosynthesis needed for optimal flowering and growth. For cattleyas a DLI of 15ish is good. Even if OP cant directly measure his lights, moving them closer for the same time will assuredly result in more photosynthesis.

https://i.imgur.com/fPZkwPz.png