My first mount - Advise nedded
 

Any of my orchids is mounted but this time I think I will do it, mainly because I'm being forced to do it. So, this is my first mount.

The plant is an Oncidium (don't know which one...see below a photo of the flowers). It has been growing really nicelly and blooming consistently every year in the small pot shown in the photos.
The problem is that it is growing horizontally which is causing some problems, specifically the pot is now too small. Two weeks ago the pot fell off to the ground, due to a strong air draft and most of the medum came out of the pot. Now the plant is completely unstable and I needed to put, in this case, a can food to support it (that was what's available at the time :)). Otherwise it would come out of the pot.

Anyway, I'm not sure if this is not a good time to mount it... most of the roots (the long ones in the photos) grew while I was on holydays) but there still one or two small ones growing. Also, it is blooming right now. I can't wait for the blooms to fade because it will probably happen only next year (these blooms last for months).

My intention is to put it in a vertical position in a cork plate, tied with some gardening wire and covering the roots with moss. I don't know if this is possible but inside the pot there is a huge root ball...maybe I could cover with moss only this root ball.

So, sugestions needed. Thank you!:)

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Mounting may be a challenge because of the size of the plant, but its growth habit certainly would make it ideal if you can manage it in your growing conditions. (Another advantage is that the plant will grow vertically rather than horizontally, so it will take up less bench space) A large piece of cork (or a suitably-sized branch of cork oak... no need to remove the wood inside) or any other tree branch with hard (Rot-resistant) wood with rough bark would be suitable. Since Oncidiums like to stay on the moist side, a nice pad of sphagnum over the roots would be good. (Put any sphagnum on top of the roots not under them, you want new roots to attach to the mount). You want to be certain that new growth is on the side toward the mount, so new roots will be encouraged to adhere to it). Then, you could stand the mount in a vase, etc. if you don't want to hang it. You could set the mount in some sphagnum for some extra moisture, especially while it is getting established.

For a plant that large, you can use twist ties or plastic "zip" ties or velcro. It is too big and heavy to mess with fishing line, dental floss, or other materials that work inconspicuously with small plants. Just whatever you use, you want it to be tied in place firmly.

This is from somebody with lower humidity and higher temperatures... don't mount it unless you can have an automatic spray system that wets it at least once a day. The plant already looks like it hasn't been getting enough water. This might be from damaged roots. If it's been as hot as some of the temperatures you've mentioned that could also account for the appearance.

Consider using one of the long, rectangular window boxes.

Yes, the pbulbs are a bit shrivelled... high temps, low HR and the fact that the plant is in this pot for more than 4 years. Probably the root ball doesn't make its function 100%.
I was considering a mount because I have the possibility to spray it more than once a day (in the morning before going to work, by lunch time as I lunch at home, and late afternoon when I get home from work.
If I go on holidays, I can always give the mount to someone who can water it (it seems a big plant but it isn't. The pot in the photos has 10 cm in diameter).

Do you think this is feasible this way?

I think that it will work. Over time, as the plant "climbs" it will make new roots that grab the mount (but will also be acclimated to a somewhat drier environment). But for now, with the root ball mostly at the bottom, it should be fairly easy to keep it moist.

Or, the long narrow container similar in form to the one you so successfully used for your L. anceps would also work. It would need more moisture than the L. anceps, of course, but the concept is similar. As ES notes, it likely would be easier to maintain.

Maybe it doesn't show in the photos but the plant is balancing in the pot. If it wasn't the food can, it would fall off from the pot.

At least, for now, I have the possibility to "visit" my plants several times during a day which gives me some confidence. But as I never have done this, I'm looking for some issues that might happen without my previous knowledge.

I would look for a branch that is “L”shaped some you can position the plant to grow up the L and along the mount.

I would wrap the roots in some coir since it is drier by you and that will help to add moisture to the mount. (Sphag also works but it is harder to wrap around something bc it is usually chopped )

I would spray it everyday in the morning and then check it late afternoon

---------- Post added at 06:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

Warning....mounts can be addictive

Long-fiber sphagnum is my favorite... it may be harder to find in some places than others. That is likely one reason that it works better for me than for you, DC. It is very airy, and doesn't stay too wet. I get in 1 kg bales, so price isn't so horrid even though I go through a LOT of it.

That would make a difference. I got a plant from Andy once in that and I could immediately recognize it was a different animal

With my humidity and penchant for watering I generally avoid sphagnum like the plague.

This is what I get:https://acadiansupply.com/products/spagmoss/ , I get the "premier" grade at least, sometimes I can get "supreme" which is even better and doesn't cost all that much more. I hydrate the bale in a trash can (don't try to take it apart dry)
This is where who actually imports it: Spagmoss Sphagnum Moss - At the Root of Healthier Plants | Besgrow

If interested, look around for other sources, this one just came up in my Google search (I get it from my local orchid-supplies store)