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Bllra. Tahoma Glacier with Terrible Leaves
This orchid was transferred to SH very late fall of 2018. Here it is in February 2019 in bloom.
http://www.orchidboard.com/community...cture12888.jpg It went outside all summer, got eaten by a few grasshoppers now and then, and I noticed the leaves were getting some strange marking/coloration on them. I have two Aliceara that were starting to look similar. (Beallara Aliceara, Tomato Tomahto) And of course a few Zygo and Onc that got some crappy leaves happening, but these didn't look the same. Fast forward to the winter months. Brought everything inside, under lights. Minimum temp 65-68F Max 74F. Average humidity 48-50% RO water, KLite weakly. Most of the older Pbulbs either dropped their leaves or I cut them off. Now the newer growths are getting the same weirdness as the older ones had. Both Aliceara are doing the same. Is this too much light? What the heck is going on? Guesses? Opinions? Questions? http://www.orchidboard.com/community...BllraTG_1_.JPG http://www.orchidboard.com/community...BllraTG_5_.JPG http://www.orchidboard.com/community...BllraTG_4_.JPG http://www.orchidboard.com/community...BllraTG_3_.JPG http://www.orchidboard.com/community...BllraTG_2_.JPG |
I have no idea what’s going on. I’d be surprised if it is due to light. I’ve placed Oncidium types like these in areas getting too much light and never saw anything like this. How are the roots doing? I can’t help wondering if it’s something tied to the semi-hydroponic growing?
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I'd also be surprised if it's light. It's sitting by some paphs and phrags, one of which is more light sensitive by far. Some Onc, a couple of mounted Phals.
Roots are fine. I repotted it when I brought it inside for winter, since I was already seeing the problem on older leaves. Basically fresh LECA and a different pot (glass). I repotted quite a few, and nothing else looks like this. I've not seen it before either. |
My Miltassia has the same pattern on it, similar to the ones I see in Cymbs.
I've read somewhere it's a virus but I really don't know. |
Maybe a fungicide might help?
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In my plant I tried a fungicide and it didn't work.
Anyway, after 2 years it didn't spread to any other plants (not in the same location but the watering tools are common). |
Just as a test on a single plant - test only - we could see what happens if k-lite is applied for a while - as usual. But on some occasions during the month, apply a regular cal-mag treatment, and see if there are any improvements with the situation.
This is certainly hoping it's not virus-related (re: rbarata). Since the other types of orchids aren't showing these symptoms, then it might well not be a chemical deficiency. But -hard to say how much supplements this type of orchid is taking in. |
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My first thought was they almost seemed chlorotic. So yes, that may be a place to start. Was waiting to see if someone would put out that theory. (Not wanting to put suggestions in first.) I think I'll try that first. A CalMag supplement would be most easy and not harmful to experiment with. |
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My first thought was guignardia/phyllosticta, but a proper fungicide ought to take care of that. (By "taking care of", I mean stop the spread, not repair the damage.) I suppose it could be bacterial - and the reason a fungicide wouldn't touch it - but that doesn't look like any bacterial infection I've seen. Next, I'm afraid I'd have to thing "virus" as well. Were the plants that have succumbed to this exposed to any particular stress before this happened? EDIT: It vaguely reminds me of mite damage, or the so-called "microfungus" that plagued phal growers some time back. |
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It was a long hot VERY moist and humid summer. So it's always stressful when they're outside. It gets hotter here for probably 6-8 weeks in the summer than most orchids I have should be in. Now in winter, most are on the low end of temp range, with much lower humidity. We had so much rain this year, I was seeing lots of problems starting. And the only three that are showing this are all Beallara. Never been next to each other (all three separated but on different racks). It started in early spring. Were it a virus, wouldn't it have shown up on something else by now? Meanwhile, how about using Physan 20, with a light kicker of Epsom salts? I think I definitely need something systemic. |
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