Angraecum? Black leaves falling off
 

I’m not sure what’s wrong with this guy.
I water it every week or every other week and let the water sit in the tray. The room which it was in typically is hot and dry because I use T5HO. I moved my angraecums downstairs near some led lights for now, where it’s much cooler.
I’ve sprayed it with physan a month or so, but the leaves keep turning black and falling off. There is good circulation, from a swiveling fan.
I’ve also put in some rootblast fertilizer a week ago.

I avoid getting the leaves wet otherwise. Both my angraecums have dropped leaves, but currently the other one doesn’t have any black leaves. It’s just in need of some soaking because it’s dry.


I leave my orchids at my house, and I live on campus. I make weekly visits usually. My phals and paphs seem happy. It’s just these guys!

update:
humidity is house conditions with the heater one.
the temperatures range from 68 - 75 (estimated.)

I have an Angraecum eburneum, and a larger NOiD with each leaf being around 12" long. I am not sure of the ID if someone would be willing to take a shot. it is the one pictured. it is down to 5 leaves. I would say that it has lost nearly 10 leaves.

The huge angraecum (NOiD) has lost more leaves since, and my other one is very dehydrated. I agree with the below comments that my watering schedule is less than ideal.
The Angraecum eburneum(not pictured) has only three leaves left, and one of the leaves was cut off due to the black spreading down.
I do notice that the leaf snaps off dry and it doesn't spread to the very center.. the joints remain dry.


I grow carnivorous plants in my apartment, but do not have the space to grow large orchids there. I never intended to hurt my precious babies, and these Angraecums seem to be the only ones with significant issues. I know my growing conditions are less than ideal, but I do plan to build a greenhouse once I graduate and move out of my current apartment. I also grow a few carnivorous plants at the house with orchids, so using distilled water is convienient for me. I did put some slow release fertilizer in all my orchid pots.

Which one is this?

Angraecums are famous for 'fungus' issues. They are both sensitive to fertilizer salts and many of them come from Madagascar which is very breezy. In addition, Madagascar has many different climates ranging from constantly hot (lowlands) to cooler temperatures during the winter (higher elevations) so it is important to know the identity before giving specific advice.

I make certain that mine have a constant source (or two or three) of Calcium (Calcium strengthens the cells and helps prevent fungus infections). I added limestone, oyster shell and egg shell to the pots of all of mine. I water with distilled water or rain water and use Osmocote (sp?) which is a slow-release fertilizer that won't burn the roots. I have mine growing in red lava rock/limestone and basket pots so the roots get plenty of airflow around them (mine are descended from ones that come from breezy Madagascar). I hope this helps.

Here is a pretty good source of information:

Angraecums...

The blog is written by someone who lives in Florida so his advice needs to be taken into context for those of us who live in colder climates.

Ditto Leafmite. I'll add mho. That medium looks broken down and the plant looks underwatered. I lost mine to disease, probably due to underwatering stress. I can't think of one orchid I own that could thrive on a weekly/biweekly watering.

If it's a case of fertiliser toxicity ----- ie. too much fertiliser accumulated in the growing media, then try repotting in new media - right away.

I am just assuming the issue isn't sunburn. But it appears that the yellowing is one-sided. On one side of the plant only.

Also assuming it's not fungal activity...... but not discounting it.

Agreeing with leafmite and dolly - totally.

---------- Post added at 05:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:13 PM ----------

Do you have a little separator that keeps the bottom of the orchid pot from touching the tray?

See this : click here.

Also - maybe once a week watering is not enough, which could be the reason for the leaf shapes seen too. Using a airy media with good air-movement in the room can allow you to water maybe every couple of days, or even every day (if you wanted).

I have added an update to the main post.

The large one pictured is a NOiD. the leaves are around 12" long each. I am not sure which one it is.
I also have a smaller eburneum that isn't doing well.

I too water with distilled water because I have carnivorous plants that need low PPM. That is why I added slow release fertilizer to my orchid pots. :)

I agree that my watering schedule is less than ideal. If I had the space to grow them in my apartment, I would have taken it with me. I can repot both of them if needed. Would repotting stress out the plant more?



the largest orchid bark possible? I'm afraid to stress either of the plants out any further but their conditions keep declining. I do have some orchiata bark; I don't remember which sizes though.

honestly, no I do not.

I think the large pictured one may be sesquipedale?!
I don’t know which angraecum species have leaves around 12” other than sesquipedale, if I could be wrong, let me know. It has two spikes, one is burnt.

It wouldn't stress them out more. It could maybe save them instead. If you do use bark again, then largest possible pieces should be quite ok - since your plant appears to be quite large already.

You could pre-soak the bark a bit in some water, then tip out the water after an hour or so, and drain the bark. The wet bark at least will be wet. Dry bark might just stay dry, and harder to wet when it's dry. Hence the pre-soak before using the bark.

A separator or grate between the bottom of the pot and a dish (if it you a pot dish) will prevent the bottom of the pot from sitting in drainage water. Not sitting in drainage water will be a beneficial thing.

Angcm. eburneum can also be very large. The leaves of the primary hybrid Angcm Veitchii (A. sesquipedale x A. eburneum) also can be quite large, and other hybrids with A. sesquipedale such as A. Crestwood (Veitchii x sesquipedale) too. Wait for the flowers... A. eburneum has much smaller flowers with short spur, but more of them. A. Veitchii is about halfway between its parents, A. Crestwood looks more like A. sesquipedale (reasonable, being 3/4 sesquipedale), spur is a little shorter but more flowers.

That could do it too ------ the leaf burning thing - if it is over-done that is. I personally go for just fertilising (weak liquid fertilisation) once a month - no slow release stuff. But I have certainly seen slow release fertiliser used in some pots - such as for catasetum plants. I don't use it myself though.

Being truthful here, hopefully not hurtful: Rereading your original post, you have a hot environment from the t5s, you can only water weekly or biweekly, and you have only normal household humidity.

I would rehome the plants and grow something more forgiving until you graduate.