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-   -   Phal new growth! (http://www.orchidboard.com/community/beginner-discussion/94433-phal-growth.html)

Ophiel 06-10-2017 10:18 PM

Phal new growth!
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hello,

I'm so excited, there's a new growth next to the root on my phalaenopsis. I've only ever had new leaves & roots, but nothing that resembles this one before. Can someone help me identify it? Cheers!

Paphluvr 06-10-2017 11:17 PM

That's where I would expect a spike to emerge from but they're usually green and a bit more pointy. One thing that I noticed is that the plant is way off center in the pot. Has it been repotted in a while? If that is a new spike you may have trouble with the plant tipping over since all the weight is to one side. If that new growth elongates a bit more and starts to grow upward then you've got a spike.

Bulbopedilum 06-10-2017 11:51 PM

I think it's a root but hey, maybe it's a spike!

Ophiel 06-11-2017 04:08 AM

Yeah I planted this tilted to the side of the pot since I've read that's how they grow in the wild, which helps reduce the chances of moisture collecting in the crown. The plastic pot is anchored, so no problems tipping over. It'll be so awesome if it's a spike!

Bulbopedilum 06-11-2017 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ophiel (Post 845136)
Yeah I planted this tilted to the side of the pot since I've read that's how they grow in the wild, which helps reduce the chances of moisture collecting in the crown. The plastic pot is anchored, so no problems tipping over. It'll be so awesome if it's a spike!

I believe they grow upside down in nature, not tilted. This helps further in rot-prevention as water just flows to the bottom. That's how I mounted mine, so I don't need to be careful when watering.

MattWoelfsen 06-11-2017 08:14 AM

What you posted is a very healthy root. Growing your plant sideways helps prevent water collection at the plant's crown. I grow my Phalaenopsis that way too. It takes up more room however.

I would recommend you cut off the flower spike as I don't think it will grow more flowers, it has browned almost to the stem. Cut it off as flush as you can to the stem without damaging the stem.

Dollythehun 06-11-2017 08:19 AM

I always tell myself not to respond: however, there is a root on the left but, to the right there appears to be a spike starting. Some of mine also start out reddish. So, I believe you have a new root and a spike.

MattWoelfsen 06-11-2017 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dollythehun (Post 845146)
I always tell myself not to respond: however, there is a root on the left but, to the right there appears to be a spike starting. Some of mine also start out reddish. So, I believe you have a new root and a spike.

That growth right above the emerging root? I barely saw it, glad you pointed it out. Yes that looks like a new growth. Good eyes!

bil 06-11-2017 08:25 AM

Anyone care to explain
1. How water can collect in the crown? (I have tried for years to fill the crowns of my phals, but the water just runs out between the leaves.)

2. In nature, with the crown hanging down, it will still get wet, so how does the plant survive?

Serious question. I see everyone saying 'Don't wet the crown!'.. it just seems to me like an urban legend that is repeated without ever testing it.

So, can anyone validate it, or am I right?

Bulbopedilum 06-11-2017 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bil (Post 845148)
Anyone care to explain
1. How water can collect in the crown? (I have tried for years to fill the crowns of my phals, but the water just runs out between the leaves.)

2. In nature, with the crown hanging down, it will still get wet, so how does the plant survive?

Serious question. I see everyone saying 'Don't wet the crown!'.. it just seems to me like an urban legend that is repeated without ever testing it.

So, can anyone validate it, or am I right?

1. Where phals live, there is A LOT of rainfall. If a phalaenopsis is big and grows upright, water will slide down the leaves and seep into various nooks and cranies, promoting rot. This has happened to my oncidium once.

2.Yes, the crown will get wet, but not INSIDE the crown where the water all accumulates and it is harder for water to get into the nooks and cranies. Wet leaves are not a problem.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

jkofferdahl 06-11-2017 12:30 PM

Regarding wet leaves/crown I've got to side with Bil. I've been growing Phals for about 38 years. In all that time I've never been concerned about taking care to keep water out of the crowns and off the leaves - if they get wet then they get wet. In all this time I've not lost a single Phal (or other monopodial orchid) to crown rot. Water may be involved in encouraging fungal and bacterial growth, but I believe that humidity levels (excessively high) and temperature (too cool) are far more likely to be what causes the plant to be succeptable to crown rot.

Potting-wise, a Phalaenopsis doesn't care if you center it in the pot or offset it to one side. It doesn't care if you plant it so that the stem is straight up or at an angle. If a Phal is going to grow, it's simply going to grow. There's not a thing wrong about how your Phal is planted.

Finally, centered in your picture is a nice, healthy root. That's a nice sign because it shows that the plant is happy; it's my opinion that healthy roots are the key to growing orchids. Just above and to the right of the root you have a spike developing.

bil 06-11-2017 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bulbopedilum (Post 845150)
1. Where phals live, there is A LOT of rainfall. If a phalaenopsis is big and grows upright, water will slide down the leaves and seep into various nooks and cranies, promoting rot. This has happened to my oncidium once.

2.Yes, the crown will get wet, but not INSIDE the crown where the water all accumulates and it is harder for water to get into the nooks and cranies. Wet leaves are not a problem.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Seriously, not trying to start a fight here. When you water in the morning, get a phal, tip it so that the crown points upwards, and fill the crown with water. Over the next minute or so, watch it carefully, and you will see all the water drain out and run into the medium.

Now re your second point. Whether the moisture on a misty morning hits one that is standing up, or is hanging down, all the little crevices will fill with water. It's capillary action, and it will wet everything.

You are right in that you have to be more careful with oncidium and some other orchids where the new leaves are densely folded, which makes them a hotspot for fungal activity.
Even there tho, wetting them is not a guaranteed ticket to rot. This whole business of wetting is a LOT more complex than you think, but the one thing I do kow is that phals don't care.

Note of caution, watering should always be done earlier in the day and with ambient temp water only. NEVER with really cold water.

jkofferdahl 06-11-2017 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bil (Post 845169)
Note of caution, watering should always be done earlier in the day and with ambient temp water only. NEVER with really cold water.

I'd argue that if you use water at room temperature or slightly warmer the plants are quite happy. Due to my work schedule, my plants sometimes get watered in the evening, both mounted plants and also potted. Again, in 38 years I've yet to experience crown rot. I believe that the key is in making sure that the plant is growing in conditions which are otherwise as good as possible.

bil 06-11-2017 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkofferdahl (Post 845172)
I'd argue that if you use water at room temperature or slightly warmer the plants are quite happy. Due to my work schedule, my plants sometimes get watered in the evening, both mounted plants and also potted. Again, in 38 years I've yet to experience crown rot. I believe that the key is in making sure that the plant is growing in conditions which are otherwise as good as possible.

Yeah, just not cold.

As for your last point, it does't matter what the plant is. Give it what it was evolved for and you can't stop it growing. The further it is away from that ideal point, the more likely it is to succumb to something.

Bulbopedilum 06-11-2017 08:07 PM

Alright I see your point bil. Actually now, maybe phal crown rot IS an urban legend..! But I would still be careful not to get water into the crevices of the leaves. I guess I'm just applying my oncidium experience to phals, which may not be right..!

Bohata 06-11-2017 10:57 PM

Whatever the truth is about preventing rot, do show us another picture when the spike finally blooms.

bil 06-12-2017 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bulbopedilum (Post 845208)
Alright I see your point bil. Actually now, maybe phal crown rot IS an urban legend..! But I would still be careful not to get water into the crevices of the leaves. I guess I'm just applying my oncidium experience to phals, which may not be right..!

But my point is, outside, on a misty morning, the moisture gets into all those crevices.

I suddenly thought a while back, about wetting other crowns on other orchids. I have a couple of hundred mounts, and when I spray them in the mornings, I go round at a fair old rate, and that spray does tend to go places it shouldn't. I bet there isn't one of my mounts that hasn't been inappropriately watered at one point or another.
My honest opinion is, that this subject is way more complex than it appears.
However, based on my own experiments, it is impossible to give a healthy phal crown rot by wetting them. Excessive heat or cold will give them crown rot, and I imagine that fungus getting into a wound might, but watering?
I just don't see it.


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