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Phal Bellina Yellow Spots
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Hello everyone.
I have a Phal Bellina that has many yellow spots. It started this fall and only got worst since. I've inspected the plant thoroughly for pest and can't find anything. I do have predatory mites (hypoaspis miles) and some springtails, occasional fungus gnat in my Catasetums in the summer. The plant is mounted on cork with some sphagnum Moss. I've cleaned up the mount a few weeks ago while inspecting it. Removed old Moss and added some fresh moss. Didn't notice anything bad there. Has full of healthy roots. It's also growing new roots and a new leave which is currently showing no spots. The previous leave that grew in fall up to January was fine initially, but now shows some marks which are different then the yellow spots, I'm thinking this might be due to low humidity in our winter conditions. The only thing this plant suffered is a lack of light which is now resolved. I had to relocate my plants as my previous growing space is now my son's room. It had very low light from November to February while I was setting up the lights. All other plants I have suffered the same low light conditions but did not exhibit any such symptoms except slowed growth. I've performed Agdia Virus tests for Cymbidium and Odontoglossum viruses which came out negative, but very well know it could be many other viruses. I've attached 4 pictures showing the evolution of this from this fall up to today. First picture is from October 31st. You can see minor yellow spots on leaves and the spike. At that time the plant was getting decent light conditions but might of suffered a brief cold breeze here and there. Second Picture is from January 6th. You can see the spots increased in size. The new leave grew nicely but starts to show a few pits here and there. At that point plant was getting close to no light and also low ambient humidity (roots were well watered but RH between 30-60%). Third and fourth picture are from yesterday. You can see how bad this got. The newer leave is full of pits. The one before is 75% yellow spots. Oddly, older leaves show way less yellow spots (has some but really minor). The new leave that is currently growing has no spots but is still very small. There is also small brown dots on the yellow spots. I really don't want to trash the plant, but starting to think this might be the safest thing to do for the rest of my orchid collection. Any thoughts? Advice? Someone encountered similar spots etc? Thanks in advance! Emmanuel |
Just to clarify. The poor light conditions got resolved after the latest leave was fully grown. So the leave that is currently growing is getting proper light and RH of 50%+
Also, in case someone wonders, no water on leaves, ever ever since about November (I used to mist daily). The roots get soaked every other day (when the mount has almost fully dried) but no more misting of the leaves. |
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You asking cause it's a bad or good thing? Thanks :-) |
I had this happen to some Phals but did not know what the issue was. This time, when I noticed that the leaves were beginning to get lighter spots, I treated immediately with magnesium and iron as some of my other plants seemed to be suffering from some deficiency. That has taken care of the matter for all the plants. If your temperature is good and you do not have an insect issue, it might be worth trying.
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Ok I'll try adding some Magnesium and hope it helps.
Anyone else? |
I'm going to agree with PaphLover and Leafmite on this.
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Ok thanks that's good news, way easier to treat that then a virus! So how much and how often should I be adding Magnesium. I thought it was used as a "blossom booster". I would normally use just before spike initiation and as buds develop. Then stop until the next flowering season. So my Phal summer bloomers would normall start getting some in the spring. I was actually gonna start adding the Mag-Pro to the Orchid Pro fertilizing regimen.
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I use MagiCal every watering.
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Nutrient Deficiency
From your photos I would suspect a nutrient deficiency also. If you go to the following site, you will see some photos of orchid leaves with deficiencies:
Diagnosing culture problems - Leaf yellowing Another thing you can try is googling: nutrient deficiencies phalaenopsis When the page comes up, click on Images along the top. You'll see many photos which will hopefully help you identify your phal's problem. When you click on the photo you're interested in, it will take you to the page which describes the cause of the symptoms. Good luck! |
Ok so there seems to be a general consensus that this would be caused by magnesium deficiency, which is really reassuring as I can easily fix that! Looking at the images in the link provided, I do notice those spots on some of my potted Phals that get a lot less attention and can easily see it being a small lack of minerals. Ill definitively add Magnesium to every watering for all my plants going forward.
However, I still feel like my Phal Bellina spotting is a bit more severe then what I see when searching mineral deficiency photos. Also, it gets regularly fertilized with Dyna-Gro Orchid Pro 7-8-6 which contains many trace elements including Magnesium and Calcium. The analysis of Dyna-Gro Orchid Pro 7-8-6 is: Total Nitrogen (N) . 7.0%* Ammoniacal (NH4) . 2.6% Nitrate (NO3) . 4.4% Phosphorus (P2O5) 8.0%* Potassium (K2O) 6.0%* Calcium (Ca) .. 2.0%* Magnesium (Mg) . 0.5%* Sulfur (S) . 0.05% Boron (B) . 0.02%* Chlorine (Cl) 0.1%* Cobalt (Co) .. 0.0015%* Copper (Cu) .. 0.05%* Iron (Fe) . 0.1%* Manganese (Mn) . 0.05%* Molybdenum (Mo) . 0.0009%* Nickel (Ni) .. 0.0001% Sodium (Na) .. 0.1%* Zinc (Zn) . 0.05%* I use this fertilizer mixed at a Ratio of 2ml/US Gallon of Reverse Osmosis water. Occasionally use regular tap water which is of very good quality here. I use it in 1 of 2 watering on my mounted Phals which is about once every other day to allow minerals to wash away. Is this quantity of Mg not sufficient at a point where the leave could deteriorate that much? I also have Dyna-Gro Mag-Proฎ 2-15-4 which was told is used as a bloom booster. I would normally start using it in conjunction with the other fertilizer when the plant is about ready to set spikes and keep using until flowering is over. I was actually about to start that regimen with my summer bloomers. The Analysis of Mag-Proฎ 2-15-4 is: Total Nitrogen (N) . 2.0% Ammoniacal (NH4) 1.1% Nitrate (NO3) . 0.9% Phosphorus (P2O5) 15.0% Potassium (K2O) . 4.0% Magnesium (Mg) 2.0% Sulfur (S) . 1.5% I would normally add about 2.5ml/US Gallon of water (mixed with equal quantity of the other fertilizer). So at this point, Im wondering can this P Bellina actually be suffering from Mineral deficiency knowing the quantity and concentration of minerals it is currently getting? And is the Mag-Pro suitable product? What quantity and frequency? I dont want to end up with Mineral toxicity either!! Thanks |
pH of fertilizer
Do you check the pH of yor fertilizer before application? Since you are watering with a RO system, all nutrients must be provided. To make sure the nutrients are being taken up by the root system, the fertilizer pH should be checked before application. You are looking for a range of 6.5 to 6.9 for orchids. If your pH is not in that range, some nutrients might be taken up and some might not be. If the orchid receives too much of one nutrient such as potassium, you can block the uptake of other nutrients such as calcium & magnesium.
So far, everywhere I've looked indicates the yellow mottling of leaves results from a magnesium deficiency. Of course, spider mites could cause a similar pattern but I understand you have ruled that out. I am listing three websites below which may help you determine if your fertilization regiment is sufficient. The first site provides numerous charts listing leaf symptoms & the possible nutritional deficiencies those symptoms indicate. I like the 'Nutritional Deficiency Flowchart-Old & New Leaves-Chlorosis & Necrosis' which lists mottling as a symptom: Plant Nutrient Deficiency Leaf Illustrations and Charts Reference Guide | Big Picture Agriculture The second is titled "Watering & Fertilizing Orchids" by Steven A. Frownie & explains how to read the fertilizer label: Watering and Fertilizing Orchids The third is an article "Cattleyas - What Can Go Wrong, Part 1 Cultural Missteps" written by Sue Bottom, St. Augustine Orchid Society, which includes a discussion of calcium & magnesium deficiencies in orchids: Orchid Culture Articles - Sue Bottom Hopefully other members of this forum can also assist with other ideas that might help identify the problem your phalaenopsis is experiencing. |
I had this same issue with the last two bellinas I tried to grow and lost both. When I noticed the leaves of these two beginning to lighten in some areas (which is how it began last time) I tried the Epsom salts and the leaves have remained green. I have other plants so I have some good 'houseplant' books that have been a great resource. As the Epsom Salts worked in my case, I suggested that you might have the same problem. As said, it might be that the pH is interfering with the absorption of nutrients.
But, if you think you have a decent pH and the nutrients are good, how are your temperatures? PS. I use an MSU formula for rainwater (Since 2012). I bought Cali Magic this past autumn, around the time when the spotting began. My medium is red lava rock. Good luck! |
Ok you guys are great thanks I think you're on to something with the Ph. I naively assumed that if my water was at a good Ph that after I add the fertilizer it would still be OK.
My tap water and RO tests at around 6.8 using my Spa test strips. It's not the most precise thing but it's all I have at this time. I'm gonna order something on Amazon tonight. Just tested after I add the dyna-gro orchid pro at rate of 1/2 tsp per gallon and Ph drops to approximately 6.2. Added the Mag-Pro at recommended 1 tsp per gallon and tested PH and all I can say is its below 6.2 cause that's where the chart ends. At this point, I guess I need to get a proper meter and raise the Ph. Probably some easily accessible products out there? The MSU you guys say you use, would solve that issue? I went with dynagro simply cause KLN gave me amazing results but wouldnt wind switching. |
The pH is probably good as long as it is above six. The reason I mentioned a magnesium deficiency was because it seemed to fit and that was what was happening with my own Phals. To be honest, it can be very difficult to deduce what exactly is happening with someone else's plant without knowing all the details of the growing methods.
To be helpful, here are some nutritional guidelines: http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/UHMG/Wes...PTOM-CHART.pdf Plant Deficiencies | Urban Gardens Ohio I am not sure if you mentioned temperatures or lighting for your orchids. Too low of a temperature or too high of light can also cause this type of spotting. Too high of light can do it, too. Some plants are sensitive to water temperature (the reason I always bring my water to room temperature before using it). Good luck! I think, between Sharon's Sheepdogs's links and everyone else's suggestions, you should be able to make your Phals happy again. :) |
It can take a long time to fix magnesium deficiency, even when applied with every watering. Also, I don't see that you've mentioned your temperatures - bellina is a very warm growing plant. Vandas show magnesium problems more in cooler temperatures, and Phalaenopsis are in the same alliance.
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Temperature for day is 24-26C and night 20-22C. In the summer it can get up to 30C day and 26C nights.
As for lighting, we'll that is a bit complex to answer! As mentioned I had to give up my previous growing space for our newest son. The shelves I'm using now we're setup on a wall I thought was getting good light, but after a few days there noticed it was way too low of a light. That's why I said they were getting close to no light from November to January. I built a lighting system which uses "full spectrum" CFL lights. Based on my research this is what would give the best results and so far I have to agree. Everything is growing very nicely, the 65W equivalent bulbs are about 6 to 10 inches fromy the plants . I even have some summer bloomers already in bloom. My tetraspis c#1 is in bloom. Cornu Cervi red is starting. Luedemaniana same. My Catasetums are starting new shoots... etc etc etc. I even see some minor some burn on my Equestris. Some red tint on my lindenii and roots in general. They are not getting too little light anymore (based on growth and colors) and as per my light meter they aren't getting too much either... if 10 LUX is equal 1 FC my Phal are getting between 400 and 1000 FC. I'm still adjusting everything and moving stuff around. But based on growth and flowering that part seems well restored. Added a pic of my lighting system. Was a bit complex as I can't screw anything to my ceiling (they are heated) and this is in the living room so it needed to look somewhat nice. I like the result. It's controlled by a timer switch and is on for 13 hours a day. It does also receive some natural light towards the end of the day and I predict that will increase in time and quatity as days get longer and the sun higher. |
So pH above 6 is acceptable? So 6 to 6.9 would be my target range?
I ordered a pH meter last night to get an exact figure as all I can say is it seems to be below 6.2 based on my Pool test strips with the fertilizer and Magnesium added. 6.8 with plain water. People using MSU (that's from Ray's??) Do you have any pH issues?? Do you need to use a pH+ to get to a proper range? I'm almost done with my Orchid Pro fertilizer from Dyna-Gro and open to a change if it's for better :-). Quote:
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I like your set up! What a great way to grow orchids! Your temperatures sound good.
I found that with the MSU (for rainwater), I still wasn't getting enough Calcium for some of my orchids. I suffered some signs of Calcium deficiency after I switched to it and I had to begin adding additional Calcium. (I grow Angraecums and Cattleyas which tend to like quite a bit of Calcium). I use it for all of my plants and, a couple of months ago, I saw some signs of magnesium deficiency so I gave my plants a good dose of epsom salts. I think those are the only issues I have with what I am using. It might be the brand of MSU fertilizer I am using, too. No idea. |
Yeah I really like my setup... I had to do something that looked good enough for my wife to let me set this up in the living room, she's quite happy with the result. It was a lot of work and in the end also somewhat expensive, but there is nothing like custom hand made things IMO. It's also really rewarding when you see the plants enjoying it and thriving (except for my Bellina, but the issues came before the setup). This morning I just noticed my haraella retrocalla with a bud about to open, that one never really did much until the lights were turned on, now full of roots, new spikes and a bud opening!!
Let me ask you, what is your pH like before you add fertilizer? Rain Water should be around 5.5 right? So your fertilizer acts as a pH+ at the same time I must assume? How important is the pH? Am I causing trouble if around 6? I thought Orchids were acid loving plants? Ecuagenera even suggested I use only pure rain water for my few draculas... Should I get some pH+ to get it closer to 6.5-6.9 range? I always overlooked the effect of fertilizer on the pH. I naively assumed that fertilizer specially formulated for Orchids made by a 'reputable' cie (correct me if I'm wrong about Dyna-Gro) would provide an acceptable pH when mixed to water that is good. Seems as Dyna-Gro Orchid-Pro and Mag-Pro both act as a pH- seeing that my water drops from 6.8 to below 6.2... Once more, to everyone who took the time to read and answer me I'm so thankful :-) I love this forum such a great resource and everyone is always so nice :-) Quote:
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pH for orchids
Most orchids grow best with a slightly acidic pH around their root zone. However, you really need to research the type of orchid you are growing & determine what their prefered pH is. I understand Paphiopedilums actually prefer a slightly alkaline pH.
The fertilizer must be water soluble within a specific pH range so that the roots can take the nutrients up. There are macro and micronutrients which are important for the orchid's growth. I fertilize my orchids in distilled water which, like R.O., does not contain minerals or has had the majority of them removed. For that reason, there is nothing in the water to act as a buffering agent so the addition of fertilizer can cause the pH to drop to very acidic conditions which are harmful to the orchid. When pH is too acidic, toxic amounts of the fertilizer can be taken up by the roots. When the pH is too alkaline (base), the fertilizer is no longer water soluble and is not available to the roots for uptake. Over the years, I have seen recommendations of anywhere from 5.8 to 7.0 (acid to neutral) pH for growing orchids. It is my understanding that a pH level of 6.4 to 6.5 will allow the best nutrient uptake of the majority of macro & micronutrients. However, all substrates (I believe LECA is an exception) decay & become more acidic over time and I grow my Phals in sphagnum moss which is an acidic substrate. For that reason, I aim for a pH of 6.5 to 6.9 which is low acidity towards neutral. I have also read that some diseases become more prominent at lower pH levels. This has worked well for me growing Phals & Cattleyas under T5 fluorescent lighting indoors. In the end you will need to begin periodic testing of your fertilizer solution after it has run through the substrate you are growing your orchids in. To start though, you should make sure the fertilizer going in is in an optimal pH range for the best nutrient uptake possible. After awhile, you'll find what works best for you. I do use liquid MSU Fertilizer for pure water plus I add Humid Acid & Protekt to the mix. If you decide to switch to MSU let me know & I will tell you how much I was advised to use in the spring/summer and fall/winter. I do fertilize 'weakly' at each watering & flush with tap water twice a month. In the early spring. I will also add Cal Mag separately just to make sure my orchids are getting enough calcium & magnesium when their growth begins. I will only do this three times because I don't want them to receive too much. I did find an article on the Venice Orchid Society located at: HOW YOUR WATER CAN AFFECT YOUR ORCHID – “PHood” – Venice Area Orchid Society. It stated that numerous white spots on your orchid leaves can also be caused by high alkalinity. Glad you ordered that pH meter. I think it will help you figure this out. Good luck! |
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Tested the pH of my water with fertilizer and mag-pro and getting 6.42.
I guess I'll continue with the Magnesium and hope for the best. |
Your setup looks great!
Water pH after mixing fertilizer is very dependent on what is in the water to start. A lot of dissolved minerals act as a buffer, minimizing changes in pH when acid or base are added. So it has to be tested for each municipal water supply or well. As an example, putting collected rain into a planted, soft-water aquarium intended for fish from very low mineral content water (like South American tetras) gives a tank that rapidly becomes more and more acidic. Within 1-3 weeks the water would become too acid for the fish to live. This is because breakdown products of organic matter in the soil release a lot of acids. When I mix just 10% of my municipal tap water, with TDS 800-1200, with 90% rain, the dissolved minerals buffer the organic acids, and the tank maintains a stable pH. A more detailed explanation of acid-base buffering is far beyond the scope of Orchid Board, but would make very interesting reading for those so inclined. |
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Hey everyone. So I have a new leaf and roots growing nicely on this one, but am noticing some cell collapse on other phals in my collection. Those plants had suffered some possible cold damage in the fall but nothing for the past few months.
I've definitively fixed all external factors including PH at this point and as I keep reading about this I'm really fearing this is a Virus. The POTY Virus seems very similar to this, where new leaf develop normally, roots as well and then damage moves over to the new growth once it matures. I also read the cell collapse that looks related to cold damage can in fact be this POTY Virus. Seems to affect Phals very badly and read people losing entire collections. The only problem, is that none of those users ever confirm via tests if it was in fact POTY Virus. Everything always seems based on assumptions... At this point, I'm thinking of trashing all plants with sympots... It's just unfortunate cause they are all in bloom right now :(. Most of them ill get over as they are complex hybrids... It will just make place for better plants :p But I really like my Bellina and don't want to trash it. Anyone has experience with POTY Virus? I've added a photo of another Phal that has recent yellow spots that turned into cell collapse? Anyone has insight?? The left photo was after only a few days of the yellow spots showing up and the right one is 3 weeks later. Thanks in advance Emmanuel |
Hi Manu,
I had this happen to a bellina of mine as well, and I'm sorry to say... Unfortunately, it died. :( My understanding with cold damage and cell collapse is that you notice the damage after the plant is stressed by some factor, often months later, by heat or sun for example. This is what happened to mine, I believe. I bought it from a vendor I no longer frequent, who put the bellina in a cold greenhouse (I'm not sure why, since they're warm growers.). I remember when I bought it that the leaves were lime green and actually cold to the touch. If I'd known more about bellinas (and the vendor) at the time, I wouldn't have purchased it. The cell collapse didn't spread to the rest of my plants, though I think another of that vendor's plants died the same fate. If I remember correctly, it tried to grow new leaves, but as each leaf grew out it would show the same symptoms of collapse and die off. Eventually, I think the base of the plant turned creamy white and the whole thing died. I hope you have a different experience. Good luck! |
Sorry for the confusion the Bellina doesn't really have cell colapse, more chlorotic spots I'd say, photos are in the first post. The cell collapse is happening on 3 complex hybrids I have in the same growing area as the Bellina. Reading about chlorotic spots led me to think the Bellina could be virused with PhCSV aka Taiwan Potyvirus.. And then I started reading more about that and found that Potyvirus often may look as cold damage or cell colapse.. the last image is from a Phal V3 that started having yellow spots that quickly turned to cell colapse.my problem is that a full virus test is over 100$ and a new Bellina is 25$.. scrapping 3 hybrids and my Bellina would still be cheaper then testing it. I did the Agdia immunostrips for orchids on all 4 plants and results were negative.
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Contact somebody in the botany or agriculture department at a nearby university and talk about it with them. They might be interested in trying to identify the problem under a light or scanning electron microscope, or via immunologic means.
Universities here have agricultural extension facilities intended to help farmers and the general public with things such as this. A lot of people take unusual insects to Arizona State University for identification, for example. And the University of Arizona has a facility in each Arizona county with agricultural agents available to the public. |
Manu, this now looks like sunburn damage to me. You can see the damage beginning as a patchy yellowing in the left leaf that leads to the dead tan section on the right leaf. Too much light can cause orchids leaves to yellow which might actually have been the cause of the mottling discoloration you initially reported.
Sunburn on an orchid leaf does not always look the same. Sometimes you get yellowing leaves, tan patches, black patches or black spots.However, I have seen photos of leaves like your photo on the right which were identified as sunburn. If the light is not reduced, the damage will continue and will result in a permanent scar on the leaf as your leaf on the right has. If your other phals are receiving the same amount of light, this might explain why they are developing the same symptoms. If you correct the lighting before permanent damage to the leaf occurs, the leaf will return to its normal color. Try going to this site on 'Environmental Damage' to orchids: Orchid Environmental Damage There is a section in the list for nutrient deficiencies, cold damage and sunburn as well as other problems. There is a link in each section you can click on which shows additional photos. Click on the link under sunburn & you will see a photo with the same tan patch in the leaf as yours has. I really don't think this is a virus. Try raising your lights or lowering your plants. Let us know if there's any improvement. |
That's a great idea! I'll try to ask the Montreal Botanical Garden for guidance.
---------- Post added at 02:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:34 PM ---------- Hi Sharon I wish I could attribute this to sunburn... It starts on leafs in the middle.. so there are leafs getting much more light above and unaffected, yet. |
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Mesophyll Cell Collapse
Manu, I agree. if the leaves closest to the lights are not suffering the same symptoms, it is probably not sunburn.
There is another possibility but before I bring it up, please go to the following website and read the article on Mesophyll Cell Collapse: Mesophyll Cell Collapse This AOS article tells you how you can distinguish between a Virus & Mesophyll Cell Collapse with the latter often not noticeable for 6 to 8 weeks after exposure. It also tells you to rule out thrips which can cause similar symptoms. Once you are sure it's not cell collapse or thrips, let us know. There is another possibility you can look into but let's rule out the above first. |
Hey Sharon,
I don't have Thrips. I have some springtails and some hypoaspis miles feeding on them... Occasional fungus gnat in the summer but haven't seen those in awhile. I don't have any sap sucking pests. As for the article I had already read it and others as well. I have 4 plants that have bad spots. 2 of them were neglected in October and could of faced some nights around 13C at the lowest for a few weeks. After that temps were restored. They both showed some spots and cell collapse a few weeks after. However, my Bellina and the Phal V3 that I posted the left right image of earlier today did not suffer any cold. In the worst case scenario they could of had some nights temps around 18 19 C back in October. The Bellina has been pushing out those yellow spots since October, it started as one or 2 and eventually the entire plant except the new leaf until it fully matures. Since those spots started, It grew 2 new leafs. The most recent one is still intact and a perfect shinniy green but is still growing. The other one that grew this winter was perfect until it matured, then it got those spots. The Phal V3 which is the one that I posted a photo of earlier today, didn't suffer any cold either, nothing happened that I can think of in the past 3 months... So what is that other thing you got me all curious? |
A member of the Big Leaf Orchids Forum posted photos of an infection involving her phals back in 2012. Within the post, a link was also included to orchidboard.com where additional photos of the diseased phals were posted.
There is a non-descript disease called a Microfungus. I don't think anyone has been able to identify the exact fungus that causes the symptoms but treatment with a systemic fungicide has sometimes worked. Big Leaf Orchid forum • View topic - Lost Half of My Phal Collection Microfungal Outbreak I have no experience with this Microfungus.Take a look at the photos on the Big Leaf & Orchidboard forum sites & let me know if this more accurately describes the symptoms your orchids are suffering from. |
Thanks Sharon
I saw those posts a while back and believe I am dealing with the same or closely related issue. I read it again and my understanding is that fungicide didn't fix the issue and everything was lost... Terri actually comes to the same conclusion then me. PhCSV or Potyvirus.... :-( Thanks :-) |
Reread... my understanding was that one person posting to the Big Leaf forum said that treatment with systemic fungicide did work, but did not say which one.
There is an image of a Phalaenopsis infected with potyvirus here: Identification and characterization of a potyvirus causing chlorotic spots on Phalaenopsis orchids (PDF Download Available) It does not look like your plant. I would try and take a piece of leaf someplace where they can examine it under a microscope to look for fungal hyphae in the tissues. |
Yeah I know one person said that, I was referring to the conclusions of the owner of the plants in that post.
There's also someone else that states he knew this was virus and had the same issue and plants test positive to CMV and ORSV, which I know for a fact this is not my case as I tested those viruses already with Agdia immunostrips. Ill try to bring my Bellina somewhere and have it checked out. Thanks |
Microfungus or Virus
Manu,
How is your phal bellina doing? Did those yellow patches clear up, stay the same or did they develop pits and brown discoloration? Is there any similarities between the symptoms on the phal bellina and the photos you just posted? From your most recent photos, I really do not see evidence of a virus. It really looks to me like either Mesophyll Cell Collapse or possibly sunburn. You mentioned your orchids are all in bloom now. Are you seeing any indication of color break or streaking on the flowers which might confirm a possible virus? You could have two problems going on at one time. I have to agree with estacion seca at this point. You really need to have the leaves tested. |
Yeah I agree it might be 2 completely distinct issues, or could also be the same issue that affects different species differently.
The last photos posted were of a hybrid that I've had for about 5 years now. It has yellow spots that turned to cell collapse. This happened a few weeks ago for no apparent reason. It has large white flowers so hard to answer the color break question. The Bellina has ongoing issues since about October 2016 when it finished blooming. Im gonna post new photos of the evolution of this so you get an idea of how it progresses. October 31st 2016. Just finished blooming. You can see a spot on the flower stem and minor spots on the most recent leaf and a new leaf is growing. 20161031_081507.jpg - Google Drive January 3rd 2017, spots progresses on the newer leaf as well as the one before seen in the top left corner. 20170103_083820.jpg - Google Drive January 6th 2017, general view shoes progression of spots on leafs. The newest leaf is now full grown and you can see one small spot in the middle. 20170106_213312.jpg - Google Drive February 20th, you can see progression of spots on leafs and stem. Started noticing the spots now have small brownish dots. 20170220_074811.jpg - Google Drive Newer leaf is now pitting. 20170220_074824.jpg - Google Drive March 4th, https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3I...w?usp=drivesdk March 26th https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3I...w?usp=drivesdk Today April 18th. Spots progressed on all leafs including the last leaf that is fully grown. The newest one that is still growing is still all nice, for now. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3I...ivesdk-tmp.jpg https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3I...w?usp=drivesdk 20170418_081554.jpg - Google Drive ---------- Post added at 12:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 PM ---------- I tried to imbed the images but it failed. I removed the (IMG) to show the url to avoid to have to copy paste the URL. If anyone knows of a site/service that is compatible with this forum please let me know thanks :-) |
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