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-   -   Dendrobium nobile care in winter while blooming (http://www.orchidboard.com/community/beginner-discussion/81763-dendrobium-nobile-care-winter-blooming.html)

Iray 12-12-2014 11:29 AM

Dendrobium nobile care in winter while blooming
 
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Hi
My dad bought me a dendrobium nobile and is in bloom. I've read not to water them in winter but I'm not sure if that applies while it's blooming...
Any care tips and disaster prevention will be very welcome!!

Thank you all!

WhiteRabbit 12-12-2014 06:34 PM

No, the dry rest it's to induce buds. Water normally.

NYCorchidman 12-12-2014 08:49 PM

Beautiful!
I think I have that same hybrid. :)
Mine is budding now.

Yes, water your plant normally otherwise the flowers will drop.

Also, if possible, do not keep the plant too warm in the house. It can really shorten up the blooming period. These flowers can last up to three months under ideal conditions.

Iray 12-15-2014 07:56 PM

How nice! This plant has such a unique look. So when it will drop the blooms, what should I do? Just leave it be?

NYCorchidman 12-16-2014 09:14 AM

When the flowers are finished, give it strong light, you can gradually move it the full sun, which is how I grow mine, and water good once the new shoots develop.

Iray 12-16-2014 09:29 AM

OK thank you!

NYCorchidman 12-16-2014 10:06 AM

One more note, fertilize once the flowers fade, but stop all fertilization by July.
This is what the makers of these hybrids recommend in order to bring out the best flowering of these plants.
If you continue on with fertilizing past summer time, then you could end up with bad results.

Iray 12-16-2014 10:42 AM

Oh I didn't know that
I have a fertiliser, it's 5-5-5 but I've noticed it has urea and read on the net that is not reccomended..so I stopped using it. Is it really bad?

voyager 12-16-2014 11:47 PM

Quite often cool-dry-rest type Dendrobiums, especially the hybrids, get confused as to exactly what the season really is. If it is in bloom right now it is not winter as far as it is concerned.
It is spring or early summer.
After it finally drops it's blossoms, it will go into its summer- autumn mode, growing and finishing its new growths.
When the new growths finish growing and the PB tips fill out, it is time for its winter to begin, usually a 2 to 3 month period. Most Den. hybrids do not require a "hard" sere winter.
They simply need their water cut back just enough to cause at least some of the leaves to shrivel and dry up.
Cooler night temperatures also help.
Although, for many Nobile type hybrids it is not a hard requirement. A 5 to 10 degree cooler night temp compared to summer will help a lot with blossom quantity. 10 to 15 degrees cooler will usually help even more.
As soon as you see new growths beginning near the base and buds beginning to form higher up, begin their spring watering cycle.

Iray 12-17-2014 02:35 AM

Very fascinating and informative,thank you very much!

NYCorchidman 12-17-2014 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iray (Post 721221)
Oh I didn't know that
I have a fertiliser, it's 5-5-5 but I've noticed it has urea and read on the net that is not reccomended..so I stopped using it. Is it really bad?

Years ago, I used fertilizers with urea in it.
I did not see any ill effect.

I now use non-urea with added micro elements.
I do not see any difference.

You can use it and if you don't see anything wrong with your plant, then it is fine. but make sure it has trace elements other than just N P K. In the long run, it would matter. You are not likely to see anything bad happening anything time soon.

Iray 12-18-2014 01:51 AM

Thanks! Good to know I didn't waste money on it!!

Iray 12-23-2014 04:43 PM

It is currently potted in bark, was thinking to put a layer of sphagon top...good idea? Or recipe for disaster?

Iray 12-23-2014 04:43 PM

*sphagnum

NYCorchidman 12-23-2014 05:24 PM

I don't think it's necessary.
I do that with paphs, but I don't do that with other epiphytes.

A very thin layer of sphagnum moss over the top roots won't harm them as they will simply dry out fast, but if you blanket those roots with thick layer of moss that stays too moist too long, then problem can happen.
So I'd say leave it as it is.

I had cattleyas and dendrobiums with rotted dormant eyes when covered with something. so leave them exposed.

Iray 12-23-2014 05:34 PM

ok thanks. i think you can do that with zygos and miltoniopsis right?

NYCorchidman 12-23-2014 05:43 PM

I believe so.
I normally just pot them up so that the base of the plant where the roots and leaves meet is just covered or slightly above that line.

I do not cover any exposed roots of cattleyas, dendrobiums, phalaenopsis,,,,well, basically all other than paphiopedilums, and so far all is well.

For epiphytes, I think it's best to just leave them exposed and mist daily if you are concerned. but they are used to occasional and repeated dry as that's how they are adapted to live.
That like to get wet and dry, wet and dry, but constantly covered with something wet is not good.
Sometimes I'm just surprised they are alive and do so well with most of their roots stuck in the pot. :lol:

Iray 12-23-2014 06:04 PM

Cool thanks!

Yea orchids are so odd, that's what makes them so fascinating and intriguing!


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