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-   -   Buds on phalaehopsis that never develop (http://www.orchidboard.com/community/beginner-discussion/71623-buds-phalaehopsis-develop.html)

greenwoodlm 09-26-2013 11:07 AM

Buds on phalaehopsis that never develop
 
My phalaehopsis develops small buds that stay small and have not continued to develop for several months. The leaves are healthy and the roots are green. Suggestions?

tucker85 09-26-2013 11:47 AM

Tell us about your culture. What kind of pot and medium is it in? How often do you water and fertilize? What is the light source and how strong is it?

greenwoodlm 09-26-2013 02:26 PM

It's planted in an orchid mix that has a lot of bark. Just recently transplanted from original store pot. Buds have not changed since replanting. I water it when it gets dry to the touch. The pot is on a shelf with sunlight from and eastern exposure. I live in Oregon. I can post a photo if that would help.

kindrag23 09-26-2013 02:34 PM

A picture would be a big help now when you say water do you soak it in a bowl of water or just in running water through it. Do you fertilize at all? When in spike these guys need the fertilizer especially to be able to help develop the spike further. Someone on the board used the euphemism pregnant women eat more because they are feeding more than just themselves. A orchid is kind of the same way with their spike that is their baby.

Island Girl 09-26-2013 02:39 PM

Did it come with these small buds, or did you get it to grow the spike, and it develops these buds, and it stalled? Because, often, when you bring a phal home from the (big box) stores the inflorence/buds/flowers have grown all they will, and only have the largest of buds open (unless they blast due to drastic temp/humidity changes). Sometimes they don't do this, but I think this only happens when they haven't been sitting at the store for too long.

And :welcomeflowers: to the OB! You should stick around, everyone here is friendly, and loves to help, and hear about your orchids! You may just find yourself getting more orchids soon! They can be rather addicting! :coverlaugh:

greenwoodlm 09-26-2013 02:54 PM

It came with flowers and buds then lost the flowers and the buds bloomed. Then the same spikes developed smaller buds so I didn't cut the spikes thinking the new buds would bloom. They're tiny; no flower parts visible, just green bud tips.

---------- Post added at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 AM ----------

I pour water into it form a watering can. The pot has a drainage hole. I also put some orchid fertilizer "sticks" in teh pot.

kindrag23 09-26-2013 03:10 PM

This is just me but I have found that the fertilizer sticks did not do what I needed my orchids to do. I know that some OB members like MSU liquid fertilizer, I use better gro water soluble fertilizer weakly weekly.

Also what do the roots look like. It may be that the plant needs to be submerged or immersed in water rather than just being watered from the top.

Also when you water do you water directly overhead? Phals grow technically what we think as upside down. So when the water runs down on them it does not get into the crown and sit. You may check around the leaves as well to make sure that there is not any rot or soggy spots.

Also pictures would be a large help.

Island Girl 09-26-2013 03:24 PM

Does it have any cold drafts? What are your temperatures? Do you by any chance know what your humidity is like? (if not, where do you live? It's not necessary to give your specific location, or anything, just so we can have an idea what your RH (relative humidity) is like... ie, I live in NC, where we have great humidity.. But, out in Wyoming, for example... Not so much). It may also just not have the energy to finish blooming a second time... Phals are forced to bloom before being sent to the store you buy them from, and often, they don't have much stored up energy to re-bloom off of another node on the spike it came with (which is what sounds like its doing). You may just want to cut it all off, down to the bottom (within an inch of the base) and let it rest, that may be what it is trying to do for itself. I know what you are describing, so you don't have to post pics. If you do, you have to have 5 posts before the site will let you post pics... But they aren't necessary in this case, IMHO.

I have heard from members who have actually used them, that the fertilizer sticks don't work too well... I've not tried them. But, I don't think fert has anything to do with your problem, although, it is important.

Watering with a can is fine, just make sure you don't leave water in the crown (the area the leaves grow from), better yet, don't get water there in the first place ;) but, using a watering can is fine. :) Try only adding a little water, if it's in moss (not saturating the moss - they don't like soggy "feet")... If its in bark chunks, then water til the water flushes out of the bottom.

tucker85 09-26-2013 03:29 PM

You said you live in Oregon. Some books say that cold drafts or watering the orchid with very cold water can cause buds to blast.

Island Girl 09-26-2013 03:30 PM

Lol, sorry, I missed the part where u said you live in Oregon :blushing:

greenwoodlm 09-26-2013 03:42 PM

Thanks to all. I'm thinking the answer is to cut off the spike that hasn't bloomed and try a new kind of fertilizer. Will check in again if I get a new spike!

kindrag23 09-26-2013 03:50 PM

Also check the thread "Phal Abuse Ends Here" read through the first 12 pages pay attention to the ones from ob member King Of Orchid Growing.

Good luck and good growing. Oh and to get new spikes you will have to have a consistent temperature drop at night of around 10-15* for at least 2-3 months. So say now to December in order for it to start developing spikes in January-On.

Island Girl 09-26-2013 06:19 PM

Kindrag, why do you say the first 12 pages? Just curious. As far as I remember, there's more info further on, but I haven't read it since I first started looking at this forum, before I joined. :)

It's only 2-3 weeks of lowered temps (10°-15° F) that is required. (I'd suggest reading up on that as well, because apparently theres a light factor that plays in... There was a thread that discussed that recently, actually, and the article that discussed this is referenced there. It's very interesting).

But I would say to let it rest, and don't force it to bloom this year, that was most likely the problem in the first place. If it were me, I'd wait til next fall, and allow for it to experience the drop in temps naturally then... It is stressed now, because of the nursery forcing it to bloom (that is the condition that all the Phals come in, from the big box stores). They grow them up fast, and then force them to bloom, so that they are able to make money by selling to the BB stores, while in bloom (who wants to buy an out of bloom Phal, after all?) if you were interested. ;)

kindrag23 09-26-2013 06:29 PM

Everyone has always said the first 12 pages after that things get way off topic I think. Ahh okay I thought it was 2 months.

That is also as far as I got on there and it seemed to be the most help for me as well.

greenwoodlm 09-26-2013 06:51 PM

Thanks!


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