teacup orchid is wilting
 

Hi everyone, and thanks for all you previous help. I just got a teacup orchid for valentines day, and it is wilting. I've moved it to my bedroom where the light is better filtered, and I water it once a week. What can I do? Please help, and thanks.

Francesca, A picture would help. Can you post one? Can you easily look at the roots? DO they appear healthy (not brown or mushy)?

Does the orchid have good drainage? Sometimes the containers they are sold in have none.

Post a couple more times, than you will be able to post pix, which would be helpful. http://www.orchidboard.com/community...ng-photos.html

A "tea cup orchid" is a Phalaenopsis in a tea cup.

Please look under posts regarding Phals.

No drainage?

teacup orchid is wilting
 

Hello everyone, and thanks. I can see the roots through the plastic container and they look green and healthy, however there are 2 roots that come out through the bottom and they are brown and soft. It has good drainage, there is a inner plastic container with holes and water comes out easily when watered. I do water it in the sink to allow for extra water to drain before putting it back in the ceramic pot. I'm unable to post pics right now, I'm still new. Thanks again everyone.

I'd take the plant out of the ceramic pot immediately as the ceramic prevents air access. I'd also get rid of the inserted plastic and repot Phal into a clear pot designed specially for orchids. If there's noone handy, any clear container would do, even a mayo jar with drilled holes.

Phals need lots of air circulation and excessive watering can kill them quickly. Water only when the roots are ALMOST dry, which is difficult to achieve in the setting you described.

To post a picture after you finished your post, go down to the bottom of the page and click Manage Attachements button. The rest works pretty much the same way as regular email attachments.

Hope this is somewhat helpful for a start.

Lilia

Hey lilia, thanks. But I don't quite understand, sorry. There are 2 containers that came with the phal, an outer ceramic pot and the inner clear plastic pot with drainage holes. How is this plastic pot different than a clear mayo jar? Can I just remove the ceramic pot and keep the phal in the original clear plastic pot? Thanks for your help.

---------- Post added at 04:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:22 AM ----------

I have tried to post pics of the phal, I don't have a computer. So I use my android phone, I suspect this may the problem. It won't let me upload anything to the site. I hit the "choose file" button and nothing happens. I apologize. Should I try to describe the phal instead?

I have also seen a Cymbidium in a tea cup too! Go figure! But next year it will begin reverting to the usual miniature to mid size, more natural size. Chemicals can do weird things to plants for mass marketing of "hostess gifts".

:rofl:

CL

If you download Tapatalk app to your phone you can upload pictures to this forum.

I saw some of these phals in a grocery store today. Very tempting, one was almost black.

[QUOTE=Francesca P.;554717]Hey lilia, thanks. But I don't quite understand, sorry. There are 2 containers that came with the phal, an outer ceramic pot and the inner clear plastic pot with drainage holes. How is this plastic pot different than a clear mayo jar? Can I just remove the ceramic pot and keep the phal in the original clear plastic pot? Thanks for your help.[COLOR="Silver"]

Hi Francesca,
Of course, I'm only guessing what your plastic container looks like. I've recently bought a Phal from Safeway and the plastic insert was basically a very tight plastic bag or shall I say a pocket - that held moss and very tightly sqeesed roots and with some signs of green algae growing on walls.
Why stores use certain containers - my guess would be it's done for the purpose of holding everything together and preventing spills of potting material during transportation. I do not believe those containers were designed with a long care for a plant in mind.

The clear container I'd choose instead would have more room for roots to spread and also provide some room for air circulation. I'd also drill holes on the bottom and sides for the same reasons and to eliminate extra moisture.

I hope this is helpful and if I could offer my :twocents:, I'd take the plant out of its current setting immediately as the bacteria most likely is hard at work on Phals roots eating them up. (Once the rot sits in, it would be lots of work to fight it off.) You can even place a Phal temporarily on a plate or in a bowl and wrap the roots in a slightly moist paper towel. This would allow roots a chance to breath and dry up a bit.

Hope this is helpful, at least for a start.

Cheers,
Lilia

Hi, and thank you very much everyone for your help. Lilia, I will try the bowl idea until I can get a new container with more room. How long will it last in the bowl with the paper towel? And should I pinch off the wilting flowers or let them fall off?

Hi Francesca,
Well, if you check on roots periodically and don't let them dry up completely, I think it could make it for 2-3 days or even longer. You could also spray roots lightly 1-2 times a day or even soak them for 5-10 min once a day. As long as the paper towel is slightly moist and the roots are green and plump, it should be ok.

Given that you have a mini phal, I'd think you need a relatively small container, like 4'. Sometimes those are hard to find, that's why I use just any clear container that would fit roots snugly, even a water bottle might do. Too large, and the media won't dry quick enough.

Mine is currently sitting in the McDonalds yogurt cup and attached to the plastic fork as it has only two roots and can't support itself. And as such the roots are covered lightly with a few pieces of bark and coconut fibers.

As for the flowers, depends on the condition of the plant. If you feel it's getting weak, I'd cut off the spike and place it in a vase. The idea is to let the plant focus its energy on a recovery effort.
The spike in a vase can last for a long time if it's in a bright but indirect light.

Good luck!
Lilia

Hi Lilia, I apologize for having so many questions. The roots inside the container look green and plump. Also, there are 4 healthy looking roots that come up through the potting media. These look pale green, thick and hard. The plant has 2 spikes, one has turned brown and dropped its flowers. The other is green and has wilted flowers. Which should I cut, the brown one? Where to cut? Would the roots that are curling upward be the problem? I will try to post a pic again. Thank you again. ***I was unable to upload pic to the chat, but I put 4 pics in my gallery of the wilted phal. This is the best I can do at present. Thank you

Hello Francesca,
I saw your photos and I'm concerned about the state of the roots, they don't look very healthy. The ones inside the pot look flat, not plump, while those outside the pot are dried up. For a start, I think you should pull the plant out of the pot to check them all.

Hello, Violetta and thanks. I've pulled the plant out and put it in a bigger plastic container with room for air to circulate and a slightly moist paper towel wrapped arount the roots and potting media. Should I losen the media from around the roots too? It is packed tight, but I'm afraid of damaging the plant.

Hi Francesca,
I agree with Violetta - you need to get rid of the moss immediately as it's sofacating the roots. I appologize if I didn't make it clear in the previous post when we talked about wrapping roots in a moist towel.

Soak the rootball with moss in a lookwarm water. Then gently try to pull at moss, one string a time... I sometimes take a tooth pick or a barbeque skewer to separate roots and moss. If it helps, you coul also do it under some slow running water (making sure no water gets on the crown!!).

The whole idea is to get moss that is full of bacteria off the roots and let them breath.
And when all that moss is gone, you'll discover you might need a very small container, just anouth to hold the roots (2 fingers between the center and the edge.) Many of them could be soft, mashy or rotten by now and would need to be trimmed off.

I'm afraid the roots now need your immediate attention and yes, I would cut off both spikes as they drain the energy from the plant.

Lilia

Hi, and thanks. Once again, I apologize for being such a novice. I have many healthy plants, but I've never had orchids before so I know nothing of them. Are you saying the roots should be bare? And where to cut spikes? The green spkie has 2 unopened buds that still feel firm and have color, should I still cut it? Should I keep the roots bare for as long as I have the plant, and spray it daily? And if the roots are kinda mushy where to cut them too? What if the roots are green and thick, just a lil flat because of the old pot? I really do appreciate everyones help, thanks so much. I've always loved orchids, they are my fav and I really want them to be healthy. My white phal is in bark, and it has a LITTLE bit of either powdered bark or soil. Is this ok? I've also repotted the white phal and the roots are thick, green and firm...but a little flat. I suspect for being smushed against the old plastic pot. Thanks again.

Hi Francesca,
No problem, orchids are special and we've all been there learning how to take care of them.

Let me summarize what we tried to discuss here.

1.When Phals are brought home, most of them needed to be repotted immediately.
two reasons: unhealthy media - tightly packed, wet/dry moss; rotting roots.

2. Repotting means -getting rid of all the moss, inspecting roots, trimming off the bad ones and repotting what's left into a new smaller pot & media (bark mix for orchids)

3. It's often recommended to cut off all the spikes, good and bad regardless - because now the Phal needs to focus on recovering roots, not on flowering

4. When unpotting and looking for suitable materials, Phals with bare roots can be left for a few days wrapped in a moist towel. This would not hurt the roots.

5. Phals do the best if they get repotted in a media that is airy, dries quickly and provides some air pockets for roots to breath (bark mix, coconut fibers.)

6. After repotting, it's important to learn how to use proper watering by using a skewer method and also prevent crown rot (by avoiding watter droplets on the crown.)

7. Most cases of Phal's dying is root rot and crown rot.

Here's a link the provides an illusration for repotting. Most growers prefer to repot in bark rather than moss as moss tends to hold too much water and is difficult for the beginner to manage.

Orchid Repotting Clinic - Phalaenopsis


I hope this clears some confusion.

Cheers,
Lilia

Hello, and thanks. I checked out the link you provided and I will try it. I just have one more question...if I do all this and the plant recovers. Will it flower again, and if so what is the time span on that? Thank you rillia and everyone for your help and support.

If it was a healthy, robust plant with lots of green, healthy roots - it might take between 6 months to a year to see new blooms, sometimes longer. Blooming also depends on overall culture that includes temperatures, light level, humidity and fertilizing.

Good luck!

Ok great, thanks. Would a bathroom be a good place for it to recover? If it has good filtered light, of course. And just to be sure, I need to cut off both flowering stalks/spikes. Cut them at the base, as close as I can get to the crown base? The link didn't say where to cut the spike, sorry. Thank you

If the medium looks powdery or like soil, it can smother the roots. You need to repot in a good orchid mix.
You want something nice and loose so the roots can get good air circulation. Don't over pot. Just plant it in a container that is one size larger with lots of drainage. Styrofoam peanuts in the bottom can help.
The clear pots are helpful because you can see the roots. If they are silvery grey, they need water. If they are green, they are happy.

If your bathroom has decent air circulation, doesn't fall below 55 F - 60 F, and has some light, then that kind of growing space will provide plenty of humidity for the Phal.

I've grown the moisture loving, humidity hog, Phal appendiculata in such an environment, and it loves it.

Also, if you haven't gathered this tip already, Phals usually don't naturally grow upright, a large majority of them hang perpendicularly or pendulously off their perches in the wild. That's how they naturally avoid problems with crown rot in nature, just in case you're wondering...

If you really want to know which Phal naturally grows upright, to my knowledge, Phal (Doritis) pulcherrima is currently the only one. So, if you have a hybrid that contains the genes of Phal (Doritis) pulcherrima in its DNA, then it might have a chance of growing upright depending on whether it is a trait that the plant expresses or not.

Interesting...

I didn't know that! :lol:

Maybe Zygos in a tea cup may be the next big thing. :D

Hi everyone, and thank you very much. I have moved the phal to the bathroom, I think this will be a better place for it. I inspected all the roots, and none of them were soft or mushy. I'm sure it will recover and be healthy. Thank you all again.

just take it out of the ceramic pot and let it dry thoroughly. when it is lightweight when you lift it (as opposed to heavy when wet) then water it. give it bright light but not full sun. early morning or late afternoon light. don't repot. leave it alone as it is already stressed. it was growing in a nice bright warm humid environment a week or so ago(nursery) and now it is in a dry, coolish, less well lit one. patience grasshopper. let it acclimate.

Hi james. Thank you very much, I didn't think of it like tha, you do have a point. I've only had it a month now, but I did repot it already. The roots looked good, just a lil flat from being in a very small pot. I will be patient and I'm sure it be fine. Thank you again, and I'm open to any more advice you or anyone else has.

Hey Philip, are you going to Santa Barbara for the big show soon? We will be up there on that Sunday. I'm renting a van and taking some of my club up. Going to the show and then SBOE and Cal Pacific and then the cym nursery on the way back. Let me know if you are going and maybe we can meet. James