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-   -   Switching phal from Sphag to S/H - Are they ready to be repotted? (http://www.orchidboard.com/community/semi-hydroponic-culture/41591-switching-phal-sphag-ready-repotted.html)

scy 12-03-2010 10:23 PM

Switching phal from Sphag to S/H - Are they ready to be repotted?
 
After reading some of the posts in this forum, I have decided to switch to semi-hydroponics. I am very excited to give it a try after reading about how your orchids love it! I had some questions to ask before I got started. I just purchased two young phals, and they arrived potted in sphagnum moss. I've read on Ray's site and through the forums that it's important to repot into the s/h when there is active growth.

1. I've taken some photos of what I think are new roots. Would these two would be prime candidates for me to repot into s/h? If so, I plan on doing so asap. I have already purchased the material from First Ray's and prepared the medium as per the instructions provided.

2. If it is not ready to repotted:
a. How can I tell from the roots when it is ready for the switch?
b. How do I repot the sphagnum moss to make sure that it is not overpacked from the seller?
c. How do I water the sphag to make sure I do not drown it?

I just received the orchids 2 days ago. I am using a spray bottle to lightly spray the moss so that it is damp and not drenched. I am careful to avoid the crown and leaves. I do not think this is enough to get through the pot but am afraid to overwater. Sorry if my questions seem silly but I'm a newbie. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

tucker85 12-04-2010 08:47 AM

I only have two phals in s/h so I'm not qualified to comment on how to repot them. As to your other question on caring for the plants in sphagnum. I saturate the sphagnum completely, either by watering from the top or setting the pot in a saucer of water to water from the bottom. I don't water again until the pot feels very light and the top surface of the sphagnum is completely dry. In plastic pots with sphagnum that could take a week or more. Good luck with the switch to s/h. The phals I have in it are doing very well.

nutgirl 12-04-2010 09:55 AM

They look ready to repot into S/H. The new roots should adapt nicely.

Maureen

Becca 12-04-2010 10:02 AM

Typically most new root growth occurs in the spring. I personally would wait for spring time growth, you never know what the new roots will do now that it is in a new growing environment. It could stop growing and then there wouldn't be anything left to try and adapt to the s/h culture and you would more then likely loose your current root system since it isn't adapted the the s/h culture.

Also, is it just one new root on each plant?

scy 12-04-2010 12:52 PM

Here's a photo of the roots for one of them. Some of the longer roots have smaller roots starting to branch. However, the middle one has rotted, which is why I'm afraid of using sphrag.

1. Is this enough info to determine whether it can be repotted in s/h?
2. If it is not ready for s/h, I have no clue how to properly repot this in sphag. How do I pot it so that it's not too tight or too loose?

Ray 12-04-2010 01:06 PM

I suppose you could repot at this time, but as we're about to go through winter's dry air, you'll be risking keeping the root system too cool, unless you put the plant on a heat mat.

That tray you're standing them in is of no real value in boosting the %RH.

nutgirl 12-04-2010 02:10 PM

Ray and Becca are right.
It would be better in spring.

Maureen

Becca 12-04-2010 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scy (Post 364271)
Here's a photo of the roots for one of them. Some of the longer roots have smaller roots starting to branch. However, the middle one has rotted, which is why I'm afraid of using sphrag.

1. Is this enough info to determine whether it can be repotted in s/h?
2. If it is not ready for s/h, I have no clue how to properly repot this in sphag. How do I pot it so that it's not too tight or too loose?

Well, my best advice for learning how to pot an orchid would be to try searching on YouTube for tips: Phal repoting - Google Search, and also repotme.com has video's on their website that might be helpful as well.

scy 12-04-2010 11:51 PM

Thanks for the wonderful input everyone! I was going to make the switch to s/h, since I did see the new roots. However, since you all made valid points, I will wait until the Spring to try again.

As for the other phal, I didn't take pictures, but half of the roots rotted in the moss. There were more active root branches than the other one. I guess it's back to the dollar store tomorrow to find tiny clear containers to repot them.

Thanks Tucker & Becca for the tips on repotting and watering in sphag. I decided to mix it with bark in hopes of better drainage. I watched some very informative videos on youtube and repot me. I think I've been "too soft" on my orchids. I hold them so gently and cut carefully when the people in the videos just yank out leaves and cut away roots quickly without giving it another thought.

scy 12-04-2010 11:53 PM

Oh just so I know for the Spring, how long do the new active roots have to be before they are ready for s/h? How many should there be before I attempt it?

Ray 12-05-2010 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scy (Post 364374)
Oh just so I know for the Spring, how long do the new active roots have to be before they are ready for s/h? How many should there be before I attempt it?

The key is that the plant is displaying growth of new roots, not how large they are. I would rather have "nubs" than roots.

scy 12-05-2010 10:48 PM

That's exactly what I was wondering! I didn't know if the nub needed to be a certain size before I could move them over in the Spring. I noticed that my cymbidium leaves grew a few inches. I went in for a closer look and noticed 4 nubs all around the bulb. :D

Ray 12-06-2010 08:10 AM

Keep this in mind: Root cells grow "tailored" to the environment they are in. Once the cells grow, they cannot change.

Roots that are just emerging will be totally tailored, while parts that already had grown in another environment will not. That doesn't mean you'll necessarily lose those, but the first scenario just seems more favorable.

Pilot 12-06-2010 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray (Post 364671)
Keep this in mind: Root cells grow "tailored" to the environment they are in. Once the cells grow, they cannot change.

Roots that are just emerging will be totally tailored, while parts that already had grown in another environment will not. That doesn't mean you'll necessarily lose those, but the first scenario just seems more favorable.

This is just my experience but I agree completely with Ray-- however, I have had plants growing in wet moss before and doing well, but switched to s/h and the roots were never lost because the environment was close enough to the moss that the roots did fine. I believe you could consider this an exception to the rule, though.

mazzieman 12-07-2010 09:31 PM

Keeping the roots continually wet on all epiphytes such as Phallies is a risky if not fatal way to go. Like most orchids phallies like to dry out between waterings or the roots will rot. A thorough soaking should always be followed by a drying out period, though not completely. Use the plastic name tag as a sort of dipstick and run your fingers along it. If damp leave for a day or two. If dry water.

Ray 12-08-2010 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilot (Post 364707)
This is just my experience but I agree completely with Ray-- however, I have had plants growing in wet moss before and doing well, but switched to s/h and the roots were never lost because the environment was close enough to the moss that the roots did fine. I believe you could consider this an exception to the rule, though.

Not an exception at all - just a "qualifier". The more similar the old and new conditions, the better the existing rots will function in the new conditions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mazzieman (Post 365032)
Keeping the roots continually wet on all epiphytes such as Phallies is a risky if not fatal way to go. Like most orchids phallies like to dry out between waterings or the roots will rot. A thorough soaking should always be followed by a drying out period, though not completely. Use the plastic name tag as a sort of dipstick and run your fingers along it. If damp leave for a day or two. If dry water.

Sorry Mazzie, but there is enough experience with semi-hydroponics and water culture to show that your assertion is untrue. I have plants that have been kept constantly moist for over 15 years in S/H culture, and they are doing great.

I think that what most-often happens with traditional culture is that over-watering leads to rapid breakdown of the medium, which gets compacted enough that "bridging" water held between the small medium particles blocks the airflow and suffocates the roots. Folks incorrectly interpret that to indicate that the plants must dry out between waterings, while in reality, doing so allows the medium to dry out, reopening the pathways for gas exchange.

A secondary aspect is that, as roots grow "tuned" to the environment, as that medium decomposes, the environment changes, and as the existing roots can't, they are no longer well-suited and can be stressed and die.

If orchids truly needed to dry out between waterings, the species that grow in the tropics - where they tend to stay constantly moist, especially in monsoon seasons - would all be extinct.

debval 12-30-2010 09:49 AM

I have potted up many orchids in s/h and phals seem to take right to it without any adjustment period at all. I've even repotted when in full bloom and they never miss a beat. Yes that is a new root. Try to plant in clear pot so you can watch the amazing roots grow. Good luck and Happy growing


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