s/h update
 

So after a brief hiatus in coconut chips, I've switched back to S/H. I did so b/c the only roots my phal currently has are small ones that barely skim the surface, and I couldn't seem to keep the chips moist enough without problems of mold. I figured if I'm going to be constantly watering, it might as well be in s/h. I purchased some sphagnum moss as a supplement, and used it just around the base of the plant to keep those small roots moist until they grow down into the media. It's been doing a pretty good job at that, however I'm currently trying to get those roots to keep growing. For some reason they seem to be stuck in limbo. I've attached a couple pics below.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4...29/Zombie3.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4...ee429/phal.jpg

I also figure that my phal is in a bit of a funk, b/c there seem to be two new leaves coming... but one of which only grew maybe two inches. I'm a little surprised that the older leaves are still around considering how little roots there are... it all just makes my plant look a little funny...

that big leaf is from my first attempt at s/h, when there was a full root system in place. It grew at record pace and is the best leaf that the plant has ever produced.

I think the stunted leaf is because of the lack of roots. It may carry on growing a bit with the other one because I've seen two growing together sometimes.

I'm afraid I can't really advise on why the roots have stopped growing, except that I see mine sometimes stop and then restart again so it may just be one of those things.

Bottom heat.... solves my stubborn phal issues every time. By applying bottom heat, it is my theory, that it increases the rate of evaporation and wicking the hydroton is known to do and coaxes those stubborn roots to get going. If the plant has stopped growing, it means its gotten a cue to do just that... less light? Not enough water? Not enough fert? I bet heat is the biggest factor here (both in terms of generating more humidity and providing a seasonal clue to grow)... so if you can, grab yourself a seeding mat or any garden-variety heating pad and put the plant on top of it.

hey Pilot,

Already have one. It's on it 24/7. The problem I find is that it keeps the bottom to midsection of the media warm, but the top stays cool.

Are you using a liquid root stimulator? If not it would help.

Thanks for the input, everyone.


I've just started watering with KLN in my mix again. I used it to kick start new growth, and upon Ray's advice I'm using it now to hopefully reboot growth.

So I noticed last night that the root destroying fungus that I had a few months ago, before I switched back to coconut chips, is returning. This is strange to me as I've been watering with physan, using the recommended dosage.

What can I do? I flushed with a bleach solution last night, but I really don't want this being an long term problem...


Original thread on the issue is here:

http://www.orchidboard.com/community...yone-seen.html

Physan is a topical disinfectant.from your description, you seem to be suffering from a systemic fungal problem, and the moist environment of the s/h pot apparently favors it.

However, I must ask if you are possibly over-analyzing the situation a bit. Looking back at the photo in the old thread, it looks to me simply like old roots failing in the new - and different - environment, which is to be expected.

hmm... okay. I thought that fungus had killed those roots b/c they looked really bizarre with those hard bumps, and a white substance appeared on those roots that didn't look like anything I had experienced before. I thought that physan was also a fungacide? Any idea on what I can do to get rid of it, anyway? Or should I just run a bleach solution through it every couple weeks?

Physan is a fungicide - and bactericide, algaecide and virucide - probably more effective than a dilute bleach treatment.

My thinking is that you do not have a fungus killing the roots. You have dying roots being consumed by the fungus, which is to be expected.

Okay, so if my newly growing roots are healthy... than will the fungus have no negative effect on them? I'm worried about this fungus b/c I've added physan to my fertilzer solution and yet it has returned. In one gallon of Los Angeles tap water, I use about one teaspoon of physan, a couple drops of KLN, and enough MSU for 150ppm.

I'll be making a new mix tomorrow, should I change anything?

There are so many pathogens out there that there is no telling exactly what you're dealing with.

Generally, plants coexist with the small levels of pathogens in the environment, and only have issues if something has stressed them. Repotting at the wrong time might do that, but more often than not, it's simply a matter of old roots dying and rotting while the new roots grow and take over support of the plant.

I would probably do the following:

1. Trim off all affected roots. If they remain, they are a breeding ground for more of the pathogen.
2. Dip plant in Physan solution, then repot.
3. No fertilizer. Plain water and rooting hormone (a drop or two - not tons) only.
4. Water thoroughly and frequently - daily even, if your heat pad and environment dry it rapidly. Try to keep the pot moist top-to-bottom. (In your first photo, the pot appears way too dry, as if it hadn't been watered for a long time.) Warm and moist favors root growth.

Thanks, Ray. The only roots remaining are along the surface and cozy in moss. They are growing slowly but steadily, and I hope they take to the PA. I just mixed up a solution of a couple drops KLN, though when I water I added a bit of hydrogen peroxide as a mold deterrent. I water a couple times a day, but it's pretty dry in Los Angeles so the top layer of PA dries pretty quick. I also keep it by an open window with a decent breeze, so air movement should be okay.

Question for Ray- I notice that MT has top dressed her plant with sphagnum. I have trouble keeping the top of my S/H stones moist- would top dressing with sphag help that, or cause more problems?

If the combination of a dry environment and slow-wicking LECA leads to the evaporation rate significantly outstripping the LECA's ability to replace the moisture, there are a variety of alternatives you can use to improve things.

One is to simply water more often. Another is to top-dress, and sphagnum is a common choice (although I am a bit concerned that it will break apart, infiltrate the medium and clog things up). A poster to the S/H forum from Europe uses disks of aluminized mylar. Not only does it slow the evaporation rate, but he actually gets some condensation returning to the pot.

Are the mylar disks the diameter of the pot, or smaller ones that he arranges on top?

Slightly smaller than the pot diameter, with a hole in the middle and slit to the side, so it can be put around the base of the plant.

i think " no "

Where could I get mylar disks?

I don't know of anyone making disks for sale, I would think any semi-rigid plastic film would do.

I would think a Chinese quart take-away soup lid with the lip cut off would be an adequate substitute.

Cheers.
Jim

wouldn't this restrict air flow?

The plastic lids would work but you might have a problem getting them over the plant if they are very rigid....Perhaps a cd cut in half with a bigger hole in the center could be used ?
You could then slide the two halves togather from each side and have easy access to remove one half or both if needed for any reason.And they would have the silver color also just like mylar ..in fact that is actually the same aluminum used for mylar I think.

That's a great idea! I'm always finding miscellaneous scratched, unlabeled CDs near the computer... that would be recycling too. :D

I don't know that the aluminized aspect is really necessary.

I think you'd do just as well by cutting a circular section out of a plastic storage bag, the cut a hole in the center and slit from the edge.

And you'd do even better for the plant if you just figured out how to increase the ambient humidity!

So the idea is just to hold humidity in the LECA stones?
I have 2 ultrasonic type humidifiers going and I can barely keep the humidty above 30% during the winter. Now that it's getting spring-like it's easier. Challenging, growing these plants- too bad I'm completely hooked!:blushing:

That's right, although I suppose to be more precise, the idea is to slow the evaporation rate.

air... flow...??

After reading this thread, I tried to use coconut material (the kind you put in hanging wire baskets to hold in the soil) on top of my phals in their new S/H pots. I am thinking this was a huge mistake because the roots at the top of one of the pots rotted in less than a week. Of course, I live in Louisiana and my humidity varies between 60% and 70%. So, I think if you have high humidity, it's best to just leave the top of the pot open and let it breathe. The root rot freaks me out, but I have to just keep reminding myself that it's part of the process. :(