Yellowing of Cymbidium leaves
 

Hi.

I have a standard Cymbidium ( Pink Champagne 'Old Vienna'), and I haven noticed that the leaves, starting at the base of the pseudobulb have started turning yellow. Not dying leave yellow as if they were going to fall off soon. I have it it a south-facing window, and on the windowsill right it front of the glass. Could it be a bit too cold, too much light, or not enough fertilizer? Any information would be appreciated ,as this is my first Cymbidium ( I have had it since last May).

Thanks,
Cam

Hi, Cam - I just have on Cymbidium myself. I've had it a little over a year and during that time I've had a few leaves turn yellow and fall off....they were just old. I don't think yours could be too cold as I understand they are supposed to even be able to handle a light frost sometimes....do you have a picture?

I know some other cymb. growers on here will be able to help you more than I can...

I will post a picture soon. Thats what I thought about the cold too, I also heard they like bright sun in the winter as well.

In case any cym growers read this, I put it in that window spot about three weeks ago. Before it got almost as bright light, but was not in front of the glass. Could it be due to the increase in light and cold too quickly?

As Ethan has mentioned, it's not unusual for cymbids to shed a leaf or two as the months pass--especially at this time of the year when most are just starting to prep for new vegetative growth. I do not think that the shift in location would cause this--I am assuming that you are growing in the home (not in a greenhouse), so given the low angle of our winter sun and the "benefit" of most window glass, there is probably not a great deal of actual increased light. When you say it is cold in the new location, can you give us a temp range? If we are talking 42F to 50F, the plant should be just fine, though it will need a bit less frequent watering.
As mentioned, pictures would be helpful, though it sounds like the normal shedding of old leaves to me.
Adam

As you can see from the first few pictures, the plant has lots of roots, as well as a new growth. From the front, the plant actually looks fine, but when I take a picture of the other side of the pseudobulb, you can see te yellowing. I bought this plant as a large seedling in May of last year.
http://i43.tinypic.com/16hqb07.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/an0j9f.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/2dqvj7r.jpg
And now the otherside. ( this is the side facing the window).. you can see from the portrait picture that the leaves are green at the top, and turn to yellow. It is a bit more apparent in reality.)
http://i40.tinypic.com/20setco.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/2w6fj28.jpg

Oh yes, and about the temperature, Id say it is at the 42- 50 temperature range, depending on how cold it is outside. It is also right by the glass, with no shading from the sun.

Cam,

What you have pictured here appears perfectly normal. Leaves will tend to lighten at the base 2-3" (below the point from which they would normally drop off). If the bulb(s) are firm, relax. All is welL....:waving

CL

Oh good! My plant seems healthy, the pseudobulb is firm and plump.

Thanks!!:biggrin::bowing
Cam

Try checking the Ph And EC of the media within the pot .I think you will find that either the EC is too high or the Ph is not within the 5.5 to 6.5 required range . this is often the cause of early leaf drop . I say this because the leafless bulb should still have some of its leaves . Another possibility is that the nitrogen content of your fertilizer is too low or you are not fertilizing correctly, when a new growth starts and there is insufficient nutrient for it ,the new growth will then draw its requirements from the previous bulb which will then shut down to conserve energy losing its leaves and root system in order to be able to supply the new growth
Also don't be afraid to take the plant out of its pot in order to inspect the root system, this usually gives you a good idea of what happening

Its in a clear pot, and from what I can see, the roots seem fine. The plant is a seedling. Also, since I posted this about a month ago, nothing has changed, and the leaves are still on. Its only thr bottom portion of the leaves that are yellowish.

Did the leafless backbulb have its leaves when you bought the plant and how long have you had it . It might just need potting on into some fresh media.
In my experience yellowing of the bottom leaves is the first sign that there is a problem of some sort.
Don't get me wrong the plant is still ok but is not growing to its optimum for some reason . I grow about 2000 seedlings and I import 500 every year so I know how important nutrition is for these
plants
Now if I found a plant in my collection that has lost leaves early like that I would find out what it has caused it .Who ever grew that plant initially did a good job because the first and second bulbs have done well. but if you don't take action now to rectify
the next bulb may smaller, which means that the plant is going backwards.

I bought the plant last may, and re-potted it when I got it, into a small- bark mix (bark and perlite mix). When I bought it, it had one mature growth, with one developing one. The older growth only had 4 leaves total. Over the summer, the new growth grew, and finally the pseudobulb developed in late october. The leafless backbulb shed its leaves in the fall. The new growth hasnt lost any leaves so far, and there is another growth which has been developing since november. All the root growth that I can see from inside the clear pot has occured since I repotted it in early June.

Oh, and I have it in full sun in a south facing window, where it gets quite cool night next to the glass. I have not been feeding it, since from what I have read, watering and fertilizing should be kept to a minimum over the winter.

This is my first cym, your information is very helpful!
Thanks! :)

Are the black spots on the leaves normal for a cym? Mine has the same spots and I've been concerned as this is my first cym. also.

Any thoughts on the last post?

Sorry for taking so long to reply but my Email has been down for a few days.
I get to be so mad when I read books and articles that tell folks to give their cymbidiums a drying out time. those few words have most probably killed more cymbids than all the bugs put together.Many novices take this to mean bone dry and this sets the plant back, as it has yours. the fact is CYMBIDIUM HYBRIDS SHOULD NEVER BE COMPLETELY DRY . That is why so many growers around the world grow their plants standing in a saucer of water
In the winter months I warm the water to about 16 degrees C using an aquarium heater. I the summer months I don't allow the water temperature to exceed 23 degree so I cool the water using frozen bottles of water . So I think if you just give that plant some water and don't let it dry out it will do well for you.

Chris , if you are talking about the black marks on the base of the leaves - that is quite normal for a cymbid.

I'll second one comment Des made - that plant looks too dry to me. I personally try to keep my cymbidiums at 6.5 to 6.8 pH. Thats the pH of the water that I keep in the saucer under my cymbidiums. If pH gets to 6 roots start to die. Health of the plant deteriorates at about 7.2. I look at my cymbidiums everyday all 2000 or so of them and pull off dead leaves. Dont worry if one plant is loosing one leaf but worry a lot and find our why one plant is loosing a lot of leaves. Gypsum, dolomite lime, and crushed oyster shell keeps my pots at the proper pH. I use a tablespoon of each for each gallon pot. I do monitor pH. Have discussed why this works with a chemist friend of mine.
Close pH control may not be so critical with a lot of orchids but it is with cymbidiums and any other orchid you keep moist all the time (my 2 cents worth).

Oh cool, I'm glad to hear it's normal. I've been worried that I have a problem...thanks