Cattleya (2&1/2" pots) Seedling care/Pot Medium Advise!

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by emmajs243

Maybe I will try to get some basal keikis from them! that would be an excellent learning experience! Since crown rot spreads too the roots...can it also spread to the basal keikis?!

From what I have seen on Phals, the crown just dies and dries up. If a new growth starts, it's fine. In fact, I have a Phal species, Phal stuartiana, where the crown died after producing a "terminal spike" - a spike from the crown, it started a new growth soon after, and the new growth took off, only a year later the new growth is almost as big as the one that bloomed and died, and there are two spikes developing. So the roots don't necessarily die when the crown does. If there's actual rot, the whole plant will go but it's possible to get a survivor.

One thing to remember about those generic mass-produced Phals... they are bred to bloom on small plants only a year or so out of flask. They no doubt are "pushed". The result - a pretty flower on a weak plant. You're going to the next level with the young plants that you have purchased from a quality grower. As you start having success with those, the generic Phals won't look as interesting, especially the rescues. Welcome to the orchid addiction...

[aliceinwl]

I don't know... I haven't been able to kick the generic Phals ;-) The only thing restraining me is limited space and time: I have to make sure I really really want it.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by aliceinwl

I don't know... I haven't been able to kick the generic Phals ;-) The only thing restraining me is limited space and time: I have to make sure I really really want it.

If they survive and thrive, it's a triumph. But it shouldn't be a tragedy if a "rescue" with rot problems doesn't make it. Just makes room for more.

[emmajs243]

Idk! I am totally where Roberta described where generic Phals aren't that interesting anymore! The only reason I took these four was A. They were free and B. It's winter and Idaho and NOBODY can ship here and in Robertas words, "orchid addiction" I just wanted a new one to work with so bad I settled for what I had in town available! If it were up to me all pennies would be saved for more cattleya seedlings instead or to branch out to Vandas! (However I think I need more experience before going to Vandas!) I definitely don't mind a challenge but I don't want to ruin a beautiful plant with a bright future just due to my own impatience!

---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:50 PM ----------

Side note! Does anyone know if the fertilizing directions for seedlings given by farorchids is on a weekly weakly dosage or a full strength dosage? I use the MSU fertilizer for now and usually fertilize following their directions every week then give a good flush with RO water on week four!

---------- Post added at 01:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------

Oh and Roberta that most recent advise you just gave, i feel should be placked or a bumper sticker for all new growers!!! SO often I talk to friends, like the one who gave me these four Phals, and they say, oh my gosh why are you trying to grow orchids! I got one once and was so excited and it didn't even last a year before I killed it! This is when I ask where they got it from and they usually say lowes, or Home Depot, or a grocery store. And that's when I try to explain to them that they probably weren't set up for success to begin with! But they are forever fearful of trying again! That advice needs to be shared with every beginner who has started with a grocery store Phal!

[Roberta]

[Fairorchids]

As to fertilizer, MSU is fine (I used to buy that too). Now that I have to take care of a lot of plants, I use Peters 20:20:20 most of the year (switching to a flower booster from mid July through October). However, while many use a VERY WEAK solution weekly (or every watering), I tend to disagree with that approach.

First of all, remember that the dosage on the container is written by people who make a profit from selling fertilizer. For most orchids, I recommend 1/3 of that dosage (Cymbidiums only get the full dosage).

Since I use a mix in the pot/basket for all orchids (with mostly spaghnum for Paphs & Zygos in small pots and all baskets), I am concerned about salt build-up. For this reason, I fertilize every 2 weeks from March through October (with 3 clear waterings in-between to wash out the mix), and once a month Nov-Feb (again with 3 clear waterings in-between).

I get excellent (often accellerated) growth with this schedule, so I have no plans to change.

As to where to get seedling size mix components (bark, charcoal, etc.), try Roberts Flower Supply in OH, or Kelly's Korner.

[emmajs243]

[/COLOR]Thank you FairOrchids! I too am a tad concerned with possible salt build up. Especially since I am on a well with pretty hard water. I definitely will probably do about what your doing at least as a starting point with my seedlings. And maybe for everyone just until I can get a feel for the strength of my water+fertilizer.

I have also seen others mention that the suggested ppm for the MSU fertilizer seems high in their opinion too so I'll have to do some research into the signs of over and under fertilizing and just work up/down from your recommended amount!!

So one last question on fertilizing these seedlings, once they arrive, do I suppose that C&H has fertilized them recently and wait a full two weeks before doing my first fertilizer application or should I do it immediately upon there arrival (or when their first watering is needed)?

[Fairorchids]

At this time of the year we have lower light, so plants can't utilize nutrients as well as they do during spring/summer/fall. Waiting a few weeks won't hurt, whether C&H fertilized recently or not.

While I was strictly a hobby grower (a long time ago), I probably only fertilized 3-4 times a year, and plants still grew OK. It is only now, where I have a regular schedule for fertilizing, that I can see how much better they can grow.

[emmajs243]

Ok guys! Just wanted to say thanks! I got so many wonderful answers and great help with this thread and it really gave me a sense of how people handle their seedlings! So much appreciated by me AND my seedlings I am sure!!!

On that note! Who wants to see the babies???

I will be honest, I am not totally positive what to look for I seedlings. I am a little dissappointed with one of them....maybe this is wrong of me but, I don't like the idea of getting one of the last orchids in a group. I feel like everytime someone makes a purchase for the same orchid the seller always picks out the best and biggest of the group so getting the last leaves just the smaller plants left. Now like I said maybe that is totally wrong of me. Just my logic.

Well, I saw a day after placing my order the same listing was taken down for that size seedling so I feel like i may of been given one of the last babies. If I had known I would have just paid a few extra dollars and gotten the next size up seedling.

Now, idk maybe it isn't just different types of Catt seedlings grow differently but, in comparison to the other seedling I purchased, it isn't so stringy looking! Don't get me wrong! I still love it and it still looks healthy and with some TLC I am sure she will be fine but what do you guys think? Also keep in mind, the larger less stringy one is worth double the price due to being a rare species mericlone of an awarded plant so maybe I shouldn't be comparing the two at all!

What are your thoughts!? The awarded mericlone is the Cattleya Trianae 'A.C. Burrage' and the other is a seedling cross from Blc. Dahl's Grace 'Peach Sorbet' X Blc. Kure Beach 'Lenette #2'.

And I am sorry! For some reason when I upload the photos the site automatically flips them? If there is a way to change it I totally will! I tried roatating them before uploading and it doesn't make a difference!

'A.C. Burrage is on the left and the other is on the right. Then the first single photo with the fat little pseudobulbs is the 'A.C. Burrage' and the second is the cross!

[Roberta]

The smaller one may just be a year younger. Take care of it, and it'll grow.

Any batch of seedlings will have a range of sizes. The seller will select plants in the order in which requests are received... so of course orders near the end of the run will have a smaller selection to choose from. It is also hard (impossible) to compare one species or grex with another, they may have inherently different degrees of vigor. (Here you have one that is a mericlone of a known cultivar of a species, and an unnamed new hybrid (seed-grown) that will be a surprise. (The first parent of the cross is Blc Dal's Grace, spelling correction) That being said, a reputable nursery like C&H won't sell seedlings that they feel are too small and week to be viable. So they have confidence in the smaller one as well.