Wow, you've taken on a big, scary project.
A lot of people find it more manageable to take in just a few at a time until they are more experienced growers. It is a much better idea to learn about plants before ordering them rather than trying to play catch up later. Some of your plants are challenging to grow, and others easier.
The most important thing is figuring out what kind of conditions new plants need through the year. You must do a lot of research quickly. Conditions now in Chiang Mai are cool and dry, so you have more time than if these plants had arrived during their growing season. But you need to read up and learn about all your plants quickly. I would suggest creating a text document with an entry for each plant. Write what you find there.
Some of these plants need to be cooler and drier during the winter. Some need to be moist and warm all year. Most of those plants will need to be grown in pots. The vases you show are probably too small to be used as terrariums for most of the orchids, and few of them are likely to do well bare-root in the vases.
The grower may be able to help you if you write her with the names of your plants.
An excellent place to start learning what plants expect is the
Internet Orchid Species Photo Encyclopedia. Most of the climate information is accurate. You can look up seasonal weather from the localities given and find out when the plants expect what kinds of temperatures, and when it rains.
Here are some suggestions. I haven't grown most of these.
1. Bulb. Hybrid. (Flat on the dish with moss under the roots)
Bright shade, warm and wet all year. Use a shallow dish. A drain hole is not necessary if you use a shallow dish. Put a few foam peanuts in the center, then put long-fiber sphagnum moss over the peanuts. Nestle the plant into the moss. Water it every day all year. Don't let it dry out. The peanuts and moss will keep the plant out of the water that should always be in the dish.
2. Liparis Viridiflava (I potted it in the bark and sponge rock because there is some bark left around the roots. Roots developing near new roots)
I don't know whether it has a dry season in habitat. Read up on Liparis.
3. Den. Brymerianum (In the pink pot without hole. A little bit moss for hydration before I get the proper pot)
There are Dendrobiums from many different climates. I haven't grown this, but I have grown relatives in section Densiflorae. They have a drier winter, and this one prefers to be cool most of the year. Let it get almost dry between waterings in winter. Give it a lot of winter light, to mimic deciduous trees. When it starts making green shoots in spring, begin watering and fertilizing so it never dries out. It can be a little shadier in the summer, when the trees overhead would have leaves. As fall approaches cut back on watering. Leaves may fall, or may stay on the pseudobulbs for 1-2 more growing seasons. If you grow it on a mount, you must make sure it never dries out during the growing season (spring-summer.) This means you might need to water twice a day. I would suggest growing in a pot with fine bark or sphagnum moss.
4. Spathoglottis Hybrids (In the white 1-inch cup with a little bit moss for now before I get the proper pot. Never heard of this genus)
These are terrestrial orchids. They are invasive weeds in many tropical areas. They need to never dry out, and they need mostly shade. They often sulk for months after being bare-rooted. Plant in a loose soil mix, like potting soil plus 50% perlite or pumice. Plant so just the tops of the pseudobulbs are showing above the soil. Keep moist and in the shade. When they begin making new shoots, keep them quite moist and fertilize heavily. In the fall the leaves will look ratty. Cut the ratty leaves off above the pseudobulb with a sharp scissors.
5. Den. Lamellatum (Peach) (In the white 1-inch cup. Came with moss around root)
Keep this warm and watered all year. I would use fine bark or sphagnum moss. It is not a large plant.
6. Neofinetia Falcata (In the glass with label around. It came in a small pot with foam holding it. Never grow Neo. before)
7. Neofinetia Falcata (In the glass with M label)
8. Neofinetia Falcata (A big one with a lot of roots in the flower vase)
There is a whole forum here for Neofinetia. Look for Forums - Vanda alliance - Neofinetia. In winter they need to have very bright light, and water only on warm, sunny days in the morning. Let them get dry by nightfall, and do not let them be cool and wet. It is better to go a few more days without watering in winter than getting them wet and cold. They can survive dry for months in winter, but will rot quickly when cold and wet. In summer let them be warm and moist to wet. Let them just dry out between waterings during warm weather.
9. Den Crumenatum (Mounted with a lot of roots. I put it in the flower vase)
I have this. Warm and moist all year, with bright light. Triggered to flower by summer thunderstorms. You will need to water it every day if you keep it mounted. It gets big. I grow it in a pot with fine bark because I couldn't keep it watered enough on a mount in summer.
10. Den. Unicum (In the square glass vase. Should I water less now since it has no leaf?)
This has a cool and dry winter dormancy, and prefers being cool and moist during the growing season. Water in winter only to keep pseudobulbs from shriveling, maybe every week or so. In summer water and fertilize heavily. It doesn't like warm temperatures.
11. Appendicula Elegans (Herb-like one in the glass vase)
Never grew this. IOSPE suggests it needs to be very moist and very humid all year. I would grow this in an enclosed terrarium or wet greenhouse.
12. Tolumnia Hybrids (With a lot of thin roots. I used some moss to cover the roots gently. )
I had a few and pack rats ate them all. Many people grow them bare-root, or hanging from a string. Some put them in a tiny empty clay pot that just holds the roots. Water every day in the morning, so they dry out before nightfall. Give as much air circulation and light as possible. Maybe in summer hot sun through the window would burn them; a good fan will prevent this.
13. Bulb. Moniliforme (Husband picked up this tiny one. Seems just done blooming. Never grow something this small)
You need to find out more about this one. I don't grow it. From reading IOSPE I believe it has a dryish deciduous period in winter. It is a lowland species, so it needs to stay warm all year. You must respect the dormancy, or the plant will decline. Spritz it during the winter just often enough to keep the pseudobulbs from shriveling, which might be every 2-10 days, depending. When it grows in spring-summer-fall you need to keep it shady, warm and always wet. A terrarium will probably be a good idea during the growing season, and a drier spot during the winter.
14. Phal. violacea var. sumatra (Mounted with long roots. Never grow Phal. species before)
This is easy if you keep it above 75 F / 24C all year and water a mounted plant every day. Give it bright shade, no direct sun. Give it as much humidity all year as you can.
15. Den. Peguanum (Leafless right now. One pseudobulb is likely to drop at any time)
I've never grown this. It is a miniature. It grows over streams, so it requires high humidity all year. It has a dry period. Read about it on IOSPE. I live in a dry area. I would grow it in a jar with a lid, to keep up the humidity.
16. Phal cornu cervi red (The leaf looks stressed and soft. I hope it didn't get too cold during shipping)
Grow this like the violacea. It too needs warm temperatures - 75-80 F / 25-27C or better all year.
17. Den. Lamellatum (This is a bigger variety. I think that I got either the small one or this one for free. Invoice says 19 and I got 20!)
See above.
18. Bulb. Lindleyanum (Mounted)
I don't have this one. You need to find out whether it needs a winter dry spell, or whether it must be wet all year. Plant it like the hybrid, the first plant. I wouldn't grow most Bulbos mounted. They need too much water. The tiny ones with winter dry spells are probably easier to manage mounted.
19. Stereochilus Pachyphyllus (It doesn't look very stable on the mount. I hope it didn't get hurt during shipping)
I don't know. It is a Vanda relative. You must find out whether it wants a drier winter, or wants to be moist and humid all year.
20. Den Senile (The fuzzy one on the mount. Is it currently leafless?)
I haven't grown this. It isn't so easy to grow. It has a wet/dry seasonality, desire for higher light in winter, and a desire for cool temperatures like the Den. brymerianum. I have read it needs to be very humid all year, especially in summer when it's growing.
Edit: I just saw your most recent post. Your house is too cold for the Phals. 70 F is risky. You must keep them warmer or they will probably die quickly. It might be too late if it's already been 10 days. I would run out and get a heat mat ASAP, and perhaps find a used aquarium to invert over the mat, to keep in the heat.
Even hybrid Phals, which tolerate cooler temperatures than these hot-growing lowland jungle plants, would be risky at your house temperatures.
The other plants I indicated as warm-growing will also want warmer temperatures than you are providing.
. I will grow them more seriously from now on!
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