I would do it now... Ideal time is just BEFORE the new roots, so that you minimize damage... when they emerge they will move right into their new home. Don't try to remove all the old bark - remove what comes off easily, but leave the rest, so that you don't damage good roots that may be stuck to pieces of bark.

Thanks for the advise, Roberta.
I'll post photos of the work.

Today went shopping thinking about the mix I would do for the medium. I want to put the plant in the basket and don't want to repot it in the next 5 years (if that's possible).

I'm planning to use:

50% coarse bark (approx. 2 to 3 cm <=> 1 to 1,5")
25% cork chips (diameters average 0,5 cm <=> 0,2 ")
25% leca

About the basket, remember its inner dimensions are 20x20x15 cm (7.8x7.8x5.9 in).
I'll reduce it's height to 4" allow a faster water evaporation.

Do you think I'm making good choices?

Since you are using large bark, the fact that the basket is rather large for the plant probably is not important - especially if you cut down the height... you will be treating it pretty much as a mounted plant, drying out well between waterings. 5 years? Maybe, though most bark will break down before that... so you will still end up repotting sooner than that (though it might be OK if it doesn't stay wet). Besides, if the plant is happy, it will be growing out of the basket anyway. Three years is a more realistic time goal - either you will have to replace the bark, or you will have to deal with an overgrown plant by then.

I use red lava rock as my medium for all my Cattleyas with a plastic basket pot. In that way, I never need to transplant the orchid. If it outgrows the pot, I drop it into a larger one with more lava rock.

Well, as long as you don't choke the airways in the bark it should be OK. Personally in your shoes I would use large bark and nothing else.
Altho, I now have all my cattleyas on mounts with a bit of sphagnum moss.

That's something I thought about...I'm not sure if the cork chips are big enough to improve drainage. Maybe they're so small that they will fill the voids between the bark chunks.

The medium or set up you use doesn't matter as long as it allows enough air to the roots to prevent fungus from flourishing. It's main purpose is to keep the air around the roots humid enough so that the roots do not dry out too quickly. You can look at Repotme's site for ideas of materials to use for a mix. :)

Orchid Supplies from rePotme.com - Orchid Mix - Orchid Pots - Orchid Care - Orchid Fertilizer

Update

Repotting countdown has begun. I'll do it this weekend.
About the subject of using a net to avoid the medium falling through the basket's wood slats I've found a plastic net used to protect what you need from birds. It's from a french manufacturer so probably can't be found in the US...anyway, that's an idea and probably you'll have something similar.

Here's some photos:

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psll3vdqgq.jpg
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psgexvcr3t.jpg
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pst9nf2j6z.jpg
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psvchteeue.jpg

That net looks perfect. One can get similar material in the 'states. I use the mesh bags that are used for some vegetables at the market (just cut them) or some mesh tubes (again, cut them) that I got from an orchid vendor who used them for shipping, was going to throw them away after unpacking at a show. Same concept.

I've found this net the most perfect from them all. If one pull the sides the mesh size decreases according your needs. Such thing was not possible on the ones I've found for vegetables (as well as their mesh size is too high).

Also cheese nets for smaller applications.

Here we have those too.:)

A problem with this kind of netting is that reptiles become trapped in it and die.

Yes, really. I stopped using it to keep birds off my plants when I found the first dead king snake. Snakes and lizards are valuable for eliminating insects and rodents that damage my plants. The reptiles we have here are beautiful animals, and it's a shame to kill them.

Perhaps using it as a pot will make it unlikely reptiles would get trapped, but using it as a screen will ensure their entrapment. I believe all European reptiles are protected due to population declines brought on by humans.

Really??????

When I first saw it and read anti-bird net I thought a bird can be trapped in it... and they will, for sure.

We use it here to keep the birds off our berries and fruit, or deer away from the lilies. Personally, I have no need of it for orchids and the only reptile I have ever seen here is a garter snake. I understand your concerns, however. I wouldn't want rbarata carted off over a trapped lizard.Totally off topic...

The biggest lizards we have here is Lacerta lepida. Where I live now I never saw it but in my youth I spent most of the time in the bushes, a kind of habitat that is known in the states as chaparral. I saw dozens of them, some were a meter long (3,3 ff) and when threatened they stand up in the back paws and hiss.
Anyway, I don't plan to use this net outside so...:D

Now, back on topic... the reppoting is done.
I don't have good conditions to do these things at home, I don't have a garden so it's always a mess. But I think I've done the essential correctly.

Took some photos.

This is the plant before the "operation".:biggrin:
Thos long roots are half a meter long (20 in) and suprisingly they didn't pose any difficulties because when reppoting they go to their natural position, growing out of the basket.

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pshdyppu1e.jpg

I decided to use bark only, coarse bark with the smallest pieces not less than 5 cm (2 in). I spent half an hour choosing the biggest pieces from a 20 l bag. Got a back pain too.:)

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pswd75stby.jpg

I didn't find many dead roots. They were at the center of the pot but were only 2 or 3, which I cut. All the other were green (I had to wet them to release old bark) or brown, but the brown ones were rigid and not mushy so I didn't cut those.
Couldn't remove all the old bark because it was strongly attached to the roots so half of it went to the basket.

Roots' photos

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psicogsgyq.jpg
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psnufkc4em.jpg
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psdl9epsxc.jpg

Final work. I think the bark I used was way too much large but I think the plant won't mind. I'll have to water it more often but at least it won't decay prematurely.
There was a void at the center of the root mass but I've put a few pieces of cork inside. But the void it's still there whi I think won't be a problem.
Also had to repot twice because the first time the plant moved sideways in the basket and was not in it's natural position. Now it's like it was before.

Comments, please, as well as advises for the future regarding care.

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pshakeduri.jpg
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psrorepmy6.jpg
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psmuzjvf1n.jpg

I just used one onion-net for a basket for Cattleya Peckhaviensis together with the fibre of Livistonia Palm, and though I took an orange coloured one (the only I had at home at that moment) it looks ok and the Catt doesn't complain anyway. I hope it will last as long as the wooden part of the basket.

As these baskets are hanging, I've no issues with lizards over here; we have some different types and the majority of them are omnivorous; they love sweet buds of orchids and can destroy a spike of Cattleya over'night' (they do it by day, of course). Ever tasted the sweet drops of nectar on the tips of a bud? Then you'll know why they like it!:D

Very cute toy lizards. I like your sense of humor 😃 rbarata, I think your potting job is better than I could do! Congrats!

That looks good to me.

So far, I find Catts are not picky about how they are potted, as long as they have anything where their roots can stick.
I'm no expert but, so far, I only had good experiences with them.

Need some guidance in watering frequency for this basket.

My conditions are:

Temp: 16 ºC min - 22 ºC max (71,6 F - 60,8 F)
HR: 45 - 55 %
Medium extra coarse bark (> 5 cm / 2 in)

Thanks

I think you just have to observe how fast it dries out. Twice a week is probably adequate (thorough soaking), in warmer weather while in rapid growth, it could need three times a week.

Today was the first time I watered it. Let a few days pass after reppoting.
I think soaking is the best option indeed, not only because is more effective but also diminishes the mess.:biggrin:

When watering I have accidentaly the tip of one of the pending roots, one of the smallest. There's still a little bit of green there so tt may grow again.:roll:

Once the root tip is damaged, that root won't grow any more. A very long root may produce a branch or two, but probably not a short new one. That is why the ideal time to repot is just as the new roots emerge - the plant is actively rooting so if one gets damaged, there will be plenty of others. I think that will be the case here - the plant is still producing new roots, it is safely in its new home so that they can grab the new media and establish quickly.

Well, this plant is always producing new roots.:hmm

About the soaking, now I see a problem: basket size.
I'll need a pool of water+fertilizer on each soaking.
Sugestions are welcome. :scratchhead:

For water, just put it in the sink (or under the shower) and let the water run through the pot. For fertilizer, mix up your solution and apply with a sprayer if your would rather not pour it through the pot. (you can fertilize less often than you water, once a week should be plenty) You can increase the amount of fertilizer a little bit since you won't applying quite the volume. But the moving water through the pot is very beneficial because it pulls air into the root zone.

I would just spray it in situ with weak fertiliser solution.

I think, given my limitations (space and all that) these are the best/only solutions. I'll use the tub 'cause the basket is too big for the sink.
For fertilization both methods are ok to me, I'll see how it goes.:)

Update on this one...

New pbulb is growing fine, as expected, almost 3" in length (8 cm).
I have been fighting against any "survival insticnt" and I've been putting it under almost full sun to acclimatise it to really strong light. The only protection is a translucid/almost transparent curtain. This is to avoid being constantly moving it in the room.
So far is good.

Water it every 4 days. Now temps are in the low 70's so I'll increase to every 2 days.

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psm2b2pask.jpg

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pssypd4whr.jpg

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pskgirgmm6.jpg

Wow! Nice growth. Good job, rbarata!

Looking good. Nice root tips. If they grow out of the pot in my environment they are goners.

Well, here's the same, at least in summer. But I have the habit of misting the roots to avoid losing them.
When I see the tips are dark then it's time to mist.

One suggestion. Where roots are coming out of the basket, hang Spanish moss on them so that it hangs over the roots. Mine grow down into the moss, and really seem to like it there.

Update...now I can see the new leaves forming in the new growth with the red tinge showing good light as expected from a south window.

These pics were taken after watering and most of the roots are green, even the long aerial ones. At this time of the year I water it every 3 to 4 days.

Maybe this is a forgiven hybrid but I'm finding this one surprisingly easy to grow. I'm really satisfied with it.:)

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psmqrd7h8b.jpg

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...psxgphjcpo.jpg

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pscx0da6pn.jpg

Beautiful! That is one happy plant!

Let's see if this time I can make grow upright and keep it that way.:roll:

It's pointing that way... but I find that these do whatever they want. So enjoy it whatever it does

Nice shot of the sweet droplets. Touch them with your finger, then touch the tip of your tongue.