When working w/my larger catts I often use pots that most would consider far too large for the root system but I do it because I don't want to disturb them for 2 or 3 years. What I do to avoid any problems at the center and/or bottom of the pot is to stuff the center of the root mass w/a very large/open bark, styrofoam peanuts, or a plastic net pot/basket. I also use extra large bark or p'nuts in the bottom section of the pots. Anything that is large and open and won't pack down or break down would work. In some cases I have even used clay shards...anything that takes up space and allows for extra drainage would work.

So, basically, I put a bunch of the large medium in the bottom (up to half depending on how much root mass I'm working with) of the pot, then put a net basket or similar in the center of the root mass...then back fill w/the bark or other medium that I am using. This allows the center/bottom to be very open and I've never experienced problems from using the large pots.

And, if the plant tends to be top heavy then I use rhizome clips to keep the plant from moving in the pot. In a basket you can run wire (cloth covered flower arranging wires work great) through the basket slats and secure it until the roots have taken hold. Once the roots have grown out and around and taken hold, you can then cut the wires and remove them...or just leave them indefinitely and then remove when you eventually divide.

:Tup:

That's what I thought when dimensioned this basket.
As I said before, I was considering using large bark in the whole pot, probably with Leka or something else to create voids. I even considered to use ONLY an inert medium such as Leka but, for now, that is out of my plans.

Thanks for the info, katrina.:)

Something I remembered this afternoon from another thread...to avoid the bark falling from the basket I could use this net as liner.
Sorry for the photo but, after all, these are also bulbs.;)
https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/x/cebo...e-18553348.jpg

Any sort of mesh screening would do the job and still allow plenty of air flow. I don't do wood baskets anymore but when I did I used a black tulle (large mesh) fabric. Not the fine mesh but the largest available...and I secured it inside the basket with staples. Easy to do and worked like a charm. The tulle is a nylon type material so it held up very well and the black color made it nearly invisible.

Yes, the ones available here are also nylon, but the color...I haven't thought about it, they are almost always red or orange, sometimes yellow.:scratchhead:
Anyway, I'll find something in black.:)

The fruit and veggies stuff is always colorful over here too. I got the tulle at a fabric store...not expensive but free is always good. Plus, you're up-cycling when you use the produce bags. :)

A. The basket might be a little too deep. 10-12 cm inside depth would be what I recommend.

B. You do not say which bifoliate Cattleya this is for. Some species are VERY particular about when they want to be repotted (when new root tips appear from the base of the new growth).

I don't know its name. Here's a photo of the flower.

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...pswflfz51h.jpg

I'm aware bifoliates can be picky about when are reppoted. I reppoted it for the first time a month after I got it (in Nov 2015) and again, if I'm not wrong, one or two months later, so both out of the most recommended time. But the plant didn't show any stress and grew vigorously.

Please tell me if you still think that way after seeing the photos here.
Please note these pics were taken last July so now it's bigger, as well as the roots.

Based on photo, this is a hybrid, which is probably less particular about repotting time.

Re basket depth: Most Catts have shallow root system, thus my suggestion that basket is a bit deep.

I would suggest large bark, which should stay within the basket (very nice one!) with no screening. I have been starting to use wood baskets for Catts a lot, the plants seem to love them - roots grow between the slats, wrap around, it's like a three-dimensional mount. With large bark and the basket it is nearly impossible to overwater. As long as it is actively rooting, the timing is fine, your temperatures are quite moderate (neither hot nor cold). With that low humidity, and the good air circulation with the basket and large bark, you can (should) increase water frequency with no harm.