repotting Brassia verrucosa(?)

[annierj]

I have two Brassia Verrucusas who seem to have outgrown their pots... the growth is vertical and there are roots that are growing outside the medium (bark) at each junction of the bulbs. The roots are white - to - light brown coloration. There is a major "anchor root" from which the original bulbs were in the medium but the growth spurts are not on a horizontal plane.

My question is: Are these air roots or should they be in a medium? Should I repot these in a larger, more shallow pot or allow these to keep growth upwards and perhaps provide the roots some sort of anchor point, like a piece of bark stuck down in the pots?

I am an amateur but seem to have good luck with orchids even though I live in Northern Kentucky and these poor plants are inside 5 months of the year. They flourish outside in the spring/summer/fall.

Any advice would be helpful....Would a photograph help?

thanks in advance...

[WhiteRabbit]

Most epiphytic (growing on trees) orchids do have an uphill (somewhat vertical) growth habit - some are much more pronounced than others. All roots can go into media, but if they grow fine into the air, you can leave them as is.

[james mickelso]

Pictures would help immensely. Roots (they are all the same) in the air above the media are arial roots and don't necessarily need to be covered with media. That being said, because we plant epiphytic orchids in a pot, we tend to want them all under the media. And that is understandable. Repotting Brassias and the cousins. DO NOT POT THEM UNTIL THEROOTS ON THE NEW GROWTH IS AT LEAST AN INCH OR TWO LONG. To do it before then will set the plant back. Brassias like to be kept damp but not wet. They can be planted in a coarse (1/2 inch size) media which will allow the roots to dry out faster and that will allow you to water (and feed) more often without the risk of root rot. Pictures would be very nice so more detail can be given.

[annierj]

Hope I did this correctly... I am sending along two photos taken this morning... pardon the background. Should show the roots..They are two different plants... I think they need to be attached to something, as the one plant is being pulled over by the weight of the bulbs/leaves.

Thanks in advance for your help!

[james mickelso]

Hmmm. I'd like to see them planted more horizontally. With many more of the roots down into a potting media. Let's try something. Please bear with me here. You know how when you are combing girls hair and you are gathering it in your hand to pull it back to comb it? You somewhat wrap your hand around a bunch of it, gather it up, and slowly pull it back. This is how you can gather the roots together and then get them down into the pot. But you need to let the roots dry for a few days so they are more pliable. It won't hurt the roots at all. But when you gather them into your hand and squeeze them down to fit most of them into the pot, do so slowly and carefully. Get someone to help you too. The important thing to know is the most important roots to this ensemble are the roots belonging to the newer growths. For those are the roots that are actively growing and feeding the new pbulbs. The older pbulbs are storage vessels that hold starches and some water in reserve for the new growth. The new pbulbs are what are important here. So if you can't get all the roots into the pot, at least get the newer roots into the new media. Get the roots down into the pot, hold the plant in that position and then your helper can slowly put in the potting material. Use dry potting material. Do not wet it beforehand. It goes in easier and fills the voids better. Put in a little and tap the pot on the table to settle the material. Then put in a little more. Repeat until full. After you finish putting in the potting material you can water it a lot. Then let it sit undisturbed for a week. Then water it again. This time interval lets the roots heal up the small tiny cracks developed as you potted the plant. You could also pot this into a shallow flat pot where you could fit all the roots but you have to wrap the plant and pot with tape or cloth to keep the entire assembly steady. I have done this with lots of plants whose root mass was too wide to fit into the correct size pot. Don't worry about repotting this. It won't hurt it a bit. First let it dry some then turn the pot on it's side and let the potting media fall out along with the plant. Let the plant sit for a day for the roots to dry out so they become more pliable. Let me know how you do. Be brave. After you do it you'll see how easy it is. I don't have anything with overgrown roots on which to take pictures and show you how to do it but it is easier than you might think. Try it.

---------- Post added at 01:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 PM ----------

Also once you have it planted in the pot, wrap tape or long cloth strips over and down under the potto help keep the plant stable in the pot. Criss/cross it a few times and tie it at the side. Keep this on for a couple months until the roots can stabilize the plant by themselves. This will bloom in the fall.

[annierj]

Thank you so very much for all this helpful information! I am not afraid to try ~ my mother and grandfather taught me how to repot cymbidiums and you have to use a little force to divide them. They both also taught me courage to tackle these plants that produce such delicate blossoms....I may try to track down some wider, more shallow pots. I have orchid medium, which I got at the orchid house in Santa Barbara, so there is plenty to do these two plants. Your technique of binding them down to let the roots settle reminds me of old photographs where someone had a toothache!

Will follow your instructions and when they bloom, will send along photos!

Again, many thanks.

[james mickelso]

If you need anything else please ask. Those are very nice plants. I'd like to see them bloom for you. And I'm sure they will.

[annierj]

Thank you for the compliment. I felt that as long as they were growing, I must be doing something right! They have yet to bloom for me. I don't know if that is because they were just little things when I got them and they have to wait through their teenage years to bloom or whether it was the inconsistencies that come from living outside for 6-7 months of the year, regular water baths, and humidity and then transitioning inside for the colder months were there is little or no humidity and they are water somewhat less consistently...It's more difficult to raise these plants back here but I spent too much time in Southern California to give them up ... and I have finally just begun to figure out the cymbidium side of it all... the need for below freezing (but not too far) to create the environment or stimuli for throwing spikes, the not-too-warm section so the buds don't drop off (after watching them develop for 2 months), and joy of watching the flowers open -- my reward! Brassias are my next challenge.

Thank you for words of encouragement...they come at a good time.

[james mickelso]

These may still bloom off the largest pbulb. That happens the season after it matures. They throw spikes when they feel like it. Instead of new growth, which will form at the base of the pbulb, it will throw up a spike from between the base of the large leaf and the pbulb.It will come as a surprise. It looks large and mature enough to throw a spike. Patience.

[annierj]

Now there is a word I know well....will keep you posted of any unexpected surprises....