Moving orchids from Trader Joes into Orchiata?

[SJF]

Hi,
I have various orchids purchased from TJ. They are from Matsui and in the peat mix that works well for their plants. Some are really in need of repotting. I had been repotting them into the Miracle Gro Orchid mix, but just bought two big bags of Orchiata since I love it and think it yields great results. My question is will those orchids from TJ have a problem or suffer going from a peat, bark mix that Matsui uses to Orchiata?
Thanks for your help.

[Stray59]

SJF:
In my opinoin it is always possible for such to happen, but if you are careful with the transplant, there should be little issue; of course, the plant will have to adjust, but it shouldn't be that devastating.
I try to move mine out of straight sphagnum moss as soon as possible, but if they are in bloom and there are no rotted roots showing, I just remove as much of the moss from the top of the pot and then take tweezers and pull some of the moss out of the lower root section. This allows good air flow to the roots and it also allows for quicker drying which is the problem I have - the roots rot in sphagnum moss in my apartment, even though it is generally hard to keep things moist - I have a very DRY apartment. I just leave the roots exposed and make sure to mist them well every day. Then when they stop blooming I remove the plant and transplant it. Sometimes this does not work, but I would estimate that 6 out of 7 plants do well like this. I currently have a phalaenopsis that I have done this with and the spike started reblooming before I got it repotted.
If there is root rot showing, I sacrifice the blooms in order to save the plant and yank it out of the sphagnum ASAP. Sometimes the blooms fall, sometimes, not; if I leave it in the moss, I will lose the flower AND the plant.
Any time I repot I soak the new medium in a solution of fungicide and weak Super-Thrive, repot the plant, of course removing all the dead roots and old medium, then once repotted do not water it for about 2 weeks - I mist it everyday, but do not water the medium. Then when I do water it, I do it sparingly until I start seeing new root or leaf growth. I have found this cuts down on root rot in the newly transplanted.
Others will disagree, but this works for me.
That's my worth!!
Steve
Hope this helps.

[SJF]

Originally Posted by Stray59

SJF:
In my opinoin it is always possible for such to happen, but if you are careful with the transplant, there should be little issue; of course, the plant will have to adjust, but it shouldn't be that devastating.
I try to move mine out of straight sphagnum moss as soon as possible, but if they are in bloom and there are no rotted roots showing, I just remove as much of the moss from the top of the pot and then take tweezers and pull some of the moss out of the lower root section. This allows good air flow to the roots and it also allows for quicker drying which is the problem I have - the roots rot in sphagnum moss in my apartment, even though it is generally hard to keep things moist - I have a very DRY apartment. I just leave the roots exposed and make sure to mist them well every day. Then when they stop blooming I remove the plant and transplant it. Sometimes this does not work, but I would estimate that 6 out of 7 plants do well like this. I currently have a phalaenopsis that I have done this with and the spike started reblooming before I got it repotted.
If there is root rot showing, I sacrifice the blooms in order to save the plant and yank it out of the sphagnum ASAP. Sometimes the blooms fall, sometimes, not; if I leave it in the moss, I will lose the flower AND the plant.
Any time I repot I soak the new medium in a solution of fungicide and weak Super-Thrive, repot the plant, of course removing all the dead roots and old medium, then once repotted do not water it for about 2 weeks - I mist it everyday, but do not water the medium. Then when I do water it, I do it sparingly until I start seeing new root or leaf growth. I have found this cuts down on root rot in the newly transplanted.
Others will disagree, but this works for me.
That's my worth!!
Steve
Hope this helps.

Thank you. They are mostly Onc. Intergeneric orchids. One was actually labeled when I got it about a year and a half ago (don't find labels often). I am attaching some pictures of that one. I need to repot it today. Water jsut runs through since it is so potbound. For some reason I seem to have luck with Wils. and Phal in my home. I don't know if that is due to me or tem,perature of my home and light exposure?

[Stray59]

And 'Handsome' it is!! Very nice looking Oncidium type - great green growth and the roots are really nice and active in their growth.
Thanks for more pics - love to see other member's orchids - it really is a very nice looking plant!!
Steve

[SJF]

Originally Posted by Stray59

And 'Handsome' it is!! Very nice looking Oncidium type - great green growth and the roots are really nice and active in their growth.
Thanks for more pics - love to see other member's orchids - it really is a very nice looking plant!!
Steve

Thank you and thanks for your tips

[silken]

It also depends on which grade of Orchiata you will be using. It comes in small and large sizes. I would try and use a bit smaller one rather than the large chunks to make the transition a bit easier. Roots on most oncidium types are quite fine and usually do OK in a small bark size.

[SJF]

Originally Posted by silken

It also depends on which grade of Orchiata you will be using. It comes in small and large sizes. I would try and use a bit smaller one rather than the large chunks to make the transition a bit easier. Roots on most oncidium types are quite fine and usually do OK in a small bark size.

Hi,
I have: Orchiata Power+
Power+ 12-18mm, suits mature orchids and orchids that require more AFP. AFP 50-54%, WHC 56.8%

Is that too big? If it is a still have a bag of Tindara mix that my other Oncidea love

[silken]

Originally Posted by SJF

Hi,
I have: Orchiata Power+
Power+ 12-18mm, suits mature orchids and orchids that require more AFP. AFP 50-54%, WHC 56.8%

Is that too big? If it is a still have a bag of Tindara mix that my other Oncidea love

I can't say absolutely what will or won't work for you and your growing environment. My suggestion is basically that the bark should be somewhat similar in size to the media you were using, especially if the plant was doing well in it. Making large changes sometimes puts the plant in a bit of shock until new roots can grow and adapt. The Orchiata Power+ is a fairly large grade. Something I would use for Catts and Phals. I am not saying it won't work tho. Here is a link to the sight that sells it and on this page in the upper right hand corner is a grey box with some choices to make to choose the appropriate grade of bark: Orchiata - New Zealand Orchid Bark as a Potting Mix for Orchids and Cymbidium Growing Media | Orchid Substrate from Besgrow Orchiata Specialists For Oncidium they recommend Classic or Super which are both a bit smaller than Super+. But again, everyone's growing conditions are unique and the Super+ might work just great for you. For myself, I would likely go a bit smaller. I hope that helps.

You might have to click the 'show search' to get the questions to show.

[SJF]

Originally Posted by silken

I can't say absolutely what will or won't work for you and your growing environment. My suggestion is basically that the bark should be somewhat similar in size to the media you were using, especially if the plant was doing well in it. Making large changes sometimes puts the plant in a bit of shock until new roots can grow and adapt. The Orchiata Power+ is a fairly large grade. Something I would use for Catts and Phals. I am not saying it won't work tho. Here is a link to the sight that sells it and on this page in the upper right hand corner is a grey box with some choices to make to choose the appropriate grade of bark: Orchiata - New Zealand Orchid Bark as a Potting Mix for Orchids and Cymbidium Growing Media | Orchid Substrate from Besgrow Orchiata Specialists For Oncidium they recommend Classic or Super which are both a bit smaller than Super+. But again, everyone's growing conditions are unique and the Super+ might work just great for you. For myself, I would likely go a bit smaller. I hope that helps.

You might have to click the 'show search' to get the questions to show.

Thank you. I am going to use the Tindara's All Purpose Orchid Mix that I have here. Next time I am able to place an order I will purchase the smaller Orchiata. I just ordered test strips from Agdia...gulp.$$$. The Tindara mix has: "Consisting of coconut husk chips, perlite, charcoal, aliflor and other unique ingredients, it provides excellent aeration to the root system with just the right amount of moisture retention that orchids require". I have some other Oncidium in it and they weren't due to bloom yet and are sending up spikes.

[silken]

Originally Posted by SJF

Thank you. I am going to use the Tindara's All Purpose Orchid Mix that I have here. Next time I am able to place an order I will purchase the smaller Orchiata. I just ordered test strips from Agdia...gulp.$$$. The Tindara mix has: "Consisting of coconut husk chips, perlite, charcoal, aliflor and other unique ingredients, it provides excellent aeration to the root system with just the right amount of moisture retention that orchids require". I have some other Oncidium in it and they weren't due to bloom yet and are sending up spikes.

It sounds like the Tindara mix is a good mix for Oncidiums. Especially when you already have some that are happy in it. I think you made the right choice.