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  #1  
Old 04-10-2021, 04:20 PM
Jmbaum Jmbaum is offline
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Thank you everyone for sharing your experience. I realized as I was typing it that referencing a YouTube video, no matter how well intended, wasn’t a great qualifier. I’m certainly not looking for a definitive stance but more what I should be aware of moving to a medium that is largely pumice. I should have included that I am concerned about my pH and TDS in the original post. Also I have to admit that I feel more comfortable over watering compete for the dryness of my balcony where I have all resilient species. The only sensitive things I have are in terrarium and get fog and distilled water. I have a Phal. Schilleriana coming in for an eastern window growing area that I’m working on for species that want a bit more moderate environ. I heard, that this Phalaenopsis’s growth distinctly improves with the lowered pH.

For the balcony plants with the heat, air movement I want to avoid detrimental alkalinity and salt build up. Overall just reducing stressors where I have control giving them the best chance to deal with the variable I cannot control.
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Old 04-10-2021, 07:13 PM
Shadeflower Shadeflower is offline
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my thought on the matter is that most substrates have advantages and disadvantages.
The problem is finding what suits the orchids, our schedules watering them and doesn't need replacing too often.
Some people like fast drying but it requires more watering. Moss is quite water retentive so generally needs less watering but it depends a big chunk of moss dries slower than a thin layer of moss.

When starting out my orchids were all different sizes and in different substrates and different pots and it was hard to work out when to water each one without overwatering others. It took a while to find what worked best for me and it is different for everyone.

So the big disadvantages with moss and bark is that they degrade faster and they change their structure as they degrade.

If one doesn't like that idea inorganic substrates are a good choice.

I think perlite is a bit underrated myself, it compacts over time but added to a substrate it can't compact that much and even if it does a little I find it beneficial, as it retains more moisture so you can't fill a pot with too much perlite or it compacts and stays too moist but a little adds aeration, moisture retention and makes the pot lighter, meaning roots can grow through the substrate easier. It's also very cheap.

Leca has got some of the biggest disadvantages in my opinion but it is very cheap so it is worth using for that reason. The problem might have nothing to do with alkalinity which was probably just a poor choice of word to describe the problem.
The problem with leca is that it can absorb water a bit too well. I have the same issue with moss. What this means is that water and nutrients are constantly absorbed and transported to evaporate on the surface and what this does is it leaves the nutrients behind as a deposit while the water evaporates.
I do not like using leca as a top layer for this reason.

I've never used charcoal but heard it can give good results but needs even more watering than bark.

A mix of different substrates usually gives the best results to achieve a mix that dries out in the timeframe that one wants with the environment they are growing in.

To start with it is impossible to know what substrate gives what result and will need to be watered in what way, some only need light misting on the surface, other substrates like charcoal probably need a full soak every once in a while. It can be very confusing but over time one learns what the disadvantages and advantages are and how to use them to ones advantage.

Pumice is the most expensive and it is a natural product so it can be very pure grade or contaminated with other rock. If it is low grade generally it will be less good for orchids but high grade pumice is a very good substrate even completely on its own. I find it hard to source - especially the very good grade.

But even the low grade pumice has its advantages. It is still pumice, it just holds a bit more water so it can be used if a pot needs to be kept wetter for longer.

The only real problem is that this is all good in theory but how does one convert this knowledge in practice. Because one can't try something, see if it works, repot if it doesn't and find what works best on the 5th attempt but the only thing one can do is learn as one goes along and improve from that knowledge.
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  #3  
Old 04-11-2021, 07:14 AM
Orchid Whisperer Orchid Whisperer is offline
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I agree with the comments about LECA and problems related to water quality. I think those problems could happen with any porous media (perlite, pumice, bark, charcoal, scoria, etc.).

Two "inorganic" media that I suggest checking out that have less porosity, therefore have fewer of the associated mineral build up problems:
  1. If you want weight in the pot, go for rock. Avoid marble chips unless you are certain your plant is a strong calciphile. Try granite chips, quartz pebbles ("egg rock" is quartz in larger sizes from home improvement stores), you can even get bags of polished pebbles from dollar stores or hobby supplies. Try pet stores for finer sizes, but inspect the material to be sure it meets your needs. Some rocks still have pores, but usually less than scoria or pumice.
  2. I have long been a fan of wine corks. Here's a new spin: PLASTIC wine corks are also great! Cork is a great choice when you want a light weight medium. Plastic corks, 3 or more years in the pot, don't look much different from new plastic wine corks, just slightly more soiled. I've noticed that a plant potted the first time in plastic corks may be slower to root and take off. Use corks of any type for Cattleya types and others wanting excellent drainage at the roots.
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  #4  
Old 04-11-2021, 09:06 AM
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As has been discussed in another thread, I have found that a 50/50 blend of LECA and Grodan rock wool mini-cubes to be a great medium that has sufficient weight to hold a plant well, while remaining airy and moist.
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  #5  
Old 04-11-2021, 09:24 AM
Mr.Fakename Mr.Fakename is offline
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This 50/50 LECA and rockwool mix has been a game changer for me, it's fantastic.

I'm seeing great root growth, and the even moisture in the pot + increased humidity around the plants really seem to make them happy.
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  #6  
Old 04-11-2021, 10:32 AM
Jmbaum Jmbaum is offline
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Using rock wool is really interesting, does it behave as sphagnum?
Just thought of another factor, are you using plastic pots?
I have everything in clay pots. I’ve potted them well below the rim for a few of my humidity loving species, notably pleurothallis nossax that had leaf failure for months until I did this. It has grown the moss lush and full. Performing much like LECA I’d imagine.

I was checking on the rupicolous Laelias thread, and towards the end people were talking about growing them in sphag instead, wonder how that panned out after a few years and if rock wool would be a good choice.

I’m looking at focusing on acquiring species with unusual growth habits particularly lithophytes, species from dry forest, species that are resilient to a degree. Balancing out affinity for watering and the harsh southern exposure of my growing balcony collection will all be crucial for longterm success. I’ll be anxious approaching Labor Day when last year there was a heatwave reaching 109 F (43 C).

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As has been discussed in another thread, I have found that a 50/50 blend of LECA and Grodan rock wool mini-cubes to be a great medium that has sufficient weight to hold a plant well, while remaining airy and moist.
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Originally Posted by Mr.Fakename View Post
This 50/50 LECA and rockwool mix has been a game changer for me, it's fantastic.

I'm seeing great root growth, and the even moisture in the pot + increased humidity around the plants really seem to make them happy.

Last edited by Jmbaum; 04-11-2021 at 10:58 AM..
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  #7  
Old 04-11-2021, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmbaum View Post

I was checking on the rupicolous Laelias thread, and towards the end people were talking about growing them in sphag instead, wonder how that panned out after a few years and if rock wool would be a good choice.

I’m looking at focusing on acquiring species with unusual growth habits particularly lithophytes, species from dry forest, species that are resilient to a degree. Balancing out affinity for watering and the harsh southern exposure of my growing balcony collection will all be crucial for longterm success. I’ll be anxious approaching Labor Day when last year there was a heatwave reaching 109 F (43 C).
Rupiculous Laelias may be a really good match for that hot, bright location. I'd be very hesitant to use a moisture-retentive medium for those. I have been pretty successful with "rupis" mimicking what they get in nature... roots going into the cracks of rocks where there is a bit of organic matter, and moisture. I use a layer of gravel, a thin layer of potting soil, then top it off with more gravel, in clay pots.
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  #8  
Old 04-11-2021, 12:15 PM
Jmbaum Jmbaum is offline
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Yes, combing through all the species or rup. Laelia to see what is available for my first few. In this moment I'm more interested in the one that have more squat, spherical, and substantial pseudobulbs over the the thinner ones... though figuring out definitively which ones that is another story.

I'll follow suit I'll probable do something similar with potting strategy since our conditions are similar, though I hadn't considered using any soil.

Btw.. I'm about half way through checking all your outdoor species. There are so many I am interested in, I'll have to ask you about some of them.


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Rupiculous Laelias may be a really good match for that hot, bright location. I'd be very hesitant to use a moisture-retentive medium for those. I have been pretty successful with "rupis" mimicking what they get in nature... roots going into the cracks of rocks where there is a bit of organic matter, and moisture. I use a layer of gravel, a thin layer of potting soil, then top it off with more gravel, in clay pots.
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Old 04-14-2021, 02:31 AM
Fishkeeper Fishkeeper is offline
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Does inorganic-only media require more fertilization? I know most (good) orchid media doesn't break down very fast, but it does break down, so I'd imagine there's some release of nutrients. Rocks and charcoal aren't exactly known for releasing nutrients.
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Old 04-14-2021, 05:07 AM
Shadeflower Shadeflower is offline
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No inorganic does not require more fertilizer.
Barroot plants do not require more fertilizer either.
Bark does degrade and does release nutrients but it's not something we should rely on for nutrients as all is contained in the right balance in fertilizers and feeding the right balance is important, feeding orchids a lot is less important. One big feed will last them a whole month.
But inorganic cannot store nutrients as well as bark so generally it is better to feed much smaller doses on every watering so the orchid always has what it needs at any time.
The downside to inorganic not being able to store nutrients or buffer the feed water in the pots means you do need to make up a lot more fertilized water and you do need to adjust the ph more. Some people would rather just grow a less scientific and simpler approach, not worry about nutrients, ph or water hardness.
A lot of orchids are very hardy, some might not tolerate it but most will. So going inorganic can be seen as more work and harder but it just requires more knowledge, more dedication to get it right but once one has reached that point inorganic makes growing orchids easier.
But inorganic is not as straightforward as growing in bark and it is best to figure out orchids in something that is more forgiving to start with, once one understands their needs better inorganic is a great place to start experimenting.

Last edited by Shadeflower; 04-14-2021 at 05:11 AM..
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