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  #11  
Old 11-04-2020, 03:54 PM
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Roberta Roberta is offline
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Need help repotting SVO L. Mantiqueriae Division Female
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In this case, removing the old bark is not only unnecessary, but contraindicated. Circumstances alter cases.

SP, If you get your own SVO plant with spectacular roots, you can mess with it... (not sure that they ship internationallly) but better not to advise someone else to do so with THEIR plant.
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  #12  
Old 11-04-2020, 04:58 PM
SouthPark SouthPark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
SP, If you get your own SVO plant with spectacular roots, you can mess with it... (not sure that they ship internationallly) but better not to advise someone else to do so with THEIR plant.
Roberta. The very important thing here is that I didn't advise somebody else to do it.

I mentioned that I have no problem with removing bark and manipulating orchid roots for my catts.

I didn't provide a directive. It was basically a sharing of information ----- indicating that - with satisfactory conditions ------ it's not a problem to manipulate orchid roots. Otherwise, everybody will think that orchids are weak. They're not weak when satisfactory conditions are provided.

Additionally, I don't 'mess' with orchids - my orchids or anybody else's orchids. I take great care in looking after orchids ------ of any kind, big and small.
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  #13  
Old 11-04-2020, 06:59 PM
SouthPark SouthPark is offline
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Forgot to mention - readers, don't get us wrong or mis-interpret our posts.

All us growers/members here are here to help other growers look after their orchids and keeping them very healthy.

There are various ways to look after orchids. So the comments we all make will overall give an idea of what 'can' be done. It's a sharing of information.


Last edited by SouthPark; 11-04-2020 at 07:05 PM..
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  #14  
Old 11-04-2020, 10:44 PM
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Need help repotting SVO L. Mantiqueriae Division
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Just had to look at those roots again...wow. I am really glad that I get my Cattleyas (and most other orchids) when they are little and do not have as much of a root-system. I probably wouldn't want to mess with those.
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  #15  
Old 11-05-2020, 12:39 AM
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The more roots an orchid has ------ the more margin for error we will have ---- as in damaging a portion of the roots of a massive-rooted system will probably not do much at all to the orchid.

But ...... for an orchid that is delicate and weak or weakened, with very little roots ....... it will be beneficial to really be careful with the roots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by realoldbeachbum View Post
Thanks SP. Excellent video link to Todd Marshall. I subscribed. (He makes it sound so easy!)
Most welcome ROBB!

The only thing in that video that might not have been quite right is some other part where Todd said 'because orchids/catts are epiphytes, they get their fertiliser/nutrients through their leaves' ..... so he just sprays fertiliser onto the leaves on bright days.

But I think most of us realise or know that the roots of the orchids are the most effective way for getting fertiliser and elements into the orchid. And ---- while maybe orchids can at least absorb some nutrients through their leaves, it's most likely that whatever fertiliser is sprayed onto the leaves may get washed off the leaves (in future, due to rain or something) and then into the media, where the roots can probably pick it up. Not sure.

Anyway ----- great purchase on the SVO orchid! Looking extremely forward to see flower pics later!
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  #16  
Old 11-05-2020, 02:32 AM
JScott JScott is offline
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Need help repotting SVO L. Mantiqueriae Division
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I agree with everybody else. That rootball is just too tight to try to tease it apart. If you try, you are going to do major damage to the roots.The plant will live, but it will probably set it back for a year.

Like they said, SVO uses very high quality potting materials that last a very long time. Just drop it into a bigger pot, and add media around the edge to fill it in. Be careful when you water not to overwater so the plant doesn't stay soggy in the middle, but with that many roots, they will absorb the water quickly, so it probably won't be a problem. That is a damn fine plant you've got there. Treat it well, and it will reward your efforts.
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  #17  
Old 11-05-2020, 11:37 PM
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JS ----- a colony that large wouldn't get set back, right? That's what I thought anyway.

But true! There is certainly always the option of just unpotting the orchid as-is (media and all within), then popping it into a larger pot, and then filling some new media around the sides. That can work too.
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  #18  
Old 11-06-2020, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPark View Post
JS ----- a colony that large wouldn't get set back, right? That's what I thought anyway.

But true! There is certainly always the option of just unpotting the orchid as-is (media and all within), then popping it into a larger pot, and then filling some new media around the sides. That can work too.
I should have phrased that more carefully. A plant like that may or may not be set back for a year after a traumatic repotting. It would depend on just how badly the roots are damaged. If you ripped apart the whole root ball trying to get all the old media out, you would certainly do some serious damage to the roots, and that may cause the plant to slow down for a while. If you did it more carefully and damaged as few roots as possible, the plant will probably never miss a beat.

I phrased my statement as if it were an absolute truth, and that's not really what I meant. It depends on how badly the roots are damaged.
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  #19  
Old 11-06-2020, 09:08 AM
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I favor leaving the rootball alone, especially when there is known orchiata bark in the center (though probably also a core of spaghnum, as this is what Fred uses for plugs).

IF the plant is divideable, AND you choose to do so, then it is my experience that it is a lot easier to do so from the top, than trying to do it from the bottom.

First, I soak the plant, to make sure that the roots are pliable.

Then I cut the rhizome where I want to divide the plant with a fresh razor blade (1 time use).

Finally I pull the two halves apart from the top. This works better than trying to tease the roots apart from the bottom. It likely will break a few roots, but when you have this many to work with, it is not a disaster.
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2020, 11:16 AM
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"Division" indeed. That's a nice one.

I'm with the "plop into a bigger pot, add more medium, water, and give it a " group. And especially since you appear to grow in a bark based medium anyway.

Having said that... IF you want to divide (which I wouldn't at this point) I'd do just what Kim suggests. Except I use a pair of sterilized snippers, because me and razor blades get dangerous. The going in from top seems counter-intuitive, but it sure turns out better for the plant. Good tip for a different situation at minimum.

Also, having said that... I usually do a total cleanout when I get a new plant. Because it's almost always in bark, and I grow everything semi-hydro in LECA. Perhaps that's what SouthPark was referring to, because he grows in scoria. Then, it may be necessary to do that get rid of bark, depending on the genus.

Even with semi-hydro, I've had some (especially Oncidium) root bound like that in bark. I just move it over to semi-hydro and don't try to remove anything for six months to a year (depending on the season when repotted, i.e., in growth or not). After that it's pretty easy to get more bark out, as many of those lovely roots will have rotted.
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