Pots and re- potting ?

[Orchid Chikk Aussie Land]

Hello lovely people

I got these hydroponic pots,
For better air circulation . .

These good for Orchids ?
I got a pack, with three different sizes
Hopefully pests are not an Issue ?

Also,
With some now out of flower,
Can I put them in Fresh pots ?
I'm not dividing them,
Or anything else . .

Or I still need to wait Until Spring ?
I haven't done this before,
So just seeking some friendly advice.

Thanks kindly

[Leafmite]

I use pots very similar to this ( - Ultimate Orchid Baskets # ) and they work very well for my orchids. If you can 'pot' the orchids into these without disturbing the roots, go for it. If you think you have injured any roots in the process, just let the orchid roots stay dray for a day or two to give them a chance to heal over the wounds and they should be fine.

Good luck!

[Ray]

As a general rule, the best time to repot orchids is just as new roots are emerging from the base of the plant.

[Leafmite]

I agree, Ray, but, I also have potted up my Cattleyas and many other orchids at the wrong time of year successfully by just letting the roots heal before watering. The roots continue to grow and the orchid doesn't miss a beat. In my conditions, I know that the orchid roots will rot in a plastic pot and bark so putting them in rock and a basket pot is best for them. Every time I have waited, it has not gone well for the roots.

[Roberta]

If plants are indoors (so reasonably warm) you can get away with potting at a less-than-optimal time. If they are outdoors and it's cold, a little more of an issue... if roots/medium are really bad, you are still better off doing it. If they look decent, probably better to wait until spring, or whenever you see new root growth just starting. Those net pots are great - especially for Catts and others that want to dry out between waterings. In fact, I find that potted Catts grow slowly until they pass the edge of the pot, then they take off. So I have gone almost exclusively for baskets for those types.

[Diane56Victor]

I use similar looking pots and they do help the media to dry out faster.
Ive also bought clear plastic pots from Bunnings, the softer clear pots, not those clear 'glass looking' plastic pots. Then I use a soldering iron and put in as many holes as required.

[Orchid Chikk Aussie Land]

Originally Posted by Leafmite

I use pots very similar to this ( - Ultimate Orchid Baskets # ) and they work very well for my orchids. If you can 'pot' the orchids into these without disturbing the roots, go for it. If you think you have injured any roots in the process, just let the orchid roots stay dray for a day or two to give them a chance to heal over the wounds and they should be fine.

Good luck!

Thanks for your Help 🙂
If I do this at the right time,
And given you have some similar,
They should be good 🙂

Point taken 👍
Got it 🙂

---------- Post added at 11:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Ray

As a general rule, the best time to repot orchids is just as new roots are emerging from the base of the plant.

Thanks for your Help 🙂

Well many have roots grown out,
In different pots . .
And several, have buds Or are in flower . .
I know, to leave them alone.
Others have finished flowering.

I was just thinking,
Rather than doing all these in Spring,
If I could get some done now 🙂

---------- Post added at 11:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Leafmite

I agree, Ray, but, I also have potted up my Cattleyas and many other orchids at the wrong time of year successfully by just letting the roots heal before watering. The roots continue to grow and the orchid doesn't miss a beat. In my conditions, I know that the orchid roots will rot in a plastic pot and bark so putting them in rock and a basket pot is best for them. Every time I have waited, it has not gone well for the roots.

Thanks 🙂

It's been rather wet here,
That's why,
I thought I would give pots a whirl 😆

---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Roberta

If plants are indoors (so reasonably warm) you can get away with potting at a less-than-optimal time. If they are outdoors and it's cold, a little more of an issue... if roots/medium are really bad, you are still better off doing it. If they look decent, probably better to wait until spring, or whenever you see new root growth just starting. Those net pots are great - especially for Catts and others that want to dry out between waterings. In fact, I find that potted Catts grow slowly until they pass the edge of the pot, then they take off. So I have gone almost exclusively for baskets for those types.

Thanks for your Help 🙂

It's Winter here in Melbourne Australia
All my Orchids,
Are out doors . .
We've had a fair bit of rain out here,
And I don't think many are Drying out,
As they possibly could be.
And because of that,
I'm holding back with Fertilizing them.
The orchids hanging,
Do dry out more . .

🙂
These pots, I believe,
Are going to be Handy,
Because of the rain,
They will get to dry out,
And that's what I believe,
Could be better for the orchids.
Advice, taken on board 🙂

Pots sound, they have worked a Treat for your orchids 😍

---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Diane56Victor

I use similar looking pots and they do help the media to dry out faster.
Ive also bought clear plastic pots from Bunnings, the softer clear pots, not those clear 'glass looking' plastic pots. Then I use a soldering iron and put in as many holes as required.

Thanks 🙂

That's exactly what I thought these would do,
So I made a good choice 🙂

I've seen a few people who do that,
Smart cookies 🙂

[Orchid Chikk Aussie Land]

I know I have to wait to repot these . .
But this is how a few of them are.
And Spring it is for these orchids 🙂
With these One's,

Just another Question please,
I can just carefully Repot, Yes ?
I don't need to cut the roots,
Just pot and done ?
Omgosh,
Before I forget . .
One more, Question please ? 😆
Do I just pot them in full bark ?
These are all Cymbidium's . .
As I've seen rocks etc etc

Other one's,
Out of flowering,
If we are going to have a couple of days,
Without any rain, ( Is that possible Melbourne 😂 )
I think,
I might see How I go,
With Repotting them . .

Thanks 🙂

[Roberta]

I would wait a month so before repotting those Cyms, even if done with blooms. (Definitely wait for blooms to be done!) The concern is not rain, but rather temperature - you want the days to start warming a bit, as they do in late winter. As for roots, please don't cut them! I know some Cym growers do trim roots of big, overgrown plants, they'll grow more. But these are still rather young plants. You can up-pot them... pot should be big enough to allow perhaps 2 years' growth... not more. When you do repot, clean off old medium that falls off easily, but you don't have to get them squeaky clean. I usually just give the roots a bath with the hose to clean them up. If there are rotted roots you can remove them, but if they are white (even if there are some black spots) they're still good. If the roots are longer than the pot is deep, no worries... if you put the plant into the pot with a twisting motion (sort of screw it into the pot) the long roots will wrap around. If any sneak out of the holes, just give another small twist to coax them back in. Add the bark a small amount at a time, tap the pot to get it into the spaces between the roots. When you get it topped up, you should press it in place with your hands... no potting stick, please... they break roots, and being impossible to clean, can also transmit disease between plants. But they do like to be held in the pot firmly.

Cyms like to stay on the damp side, so I use small bark, and add some perlite just to help maintain air spaces (but not required) After repotting you can let them dry out for a few days... I don't bother, once done they go back into the general population. That would also be a good time to sprinkle some time-release fertilizer on the fresh bark, you can tease it into the mix a little. When in rapid spring growth, Cyms are heavy feeders, so your liquid fertilizing can use the supplementation.

On more thing... When repotting, hygiene is really important. To get a clean surface between plants, you can use several layers of newspaper (discard and put down fresh ones for the next plant) Sterilize cutting tools between plants. You will find endless discussions about what to soak them in and for how long... I use a propane torch (the kind with a trigger so that you can turn it on and off with one hand is the easiest and therefore most likely to be used) - a few seconds of that hot flame will destroy anything organic. That's a bit rough on the clippers... they do lose their sharpness. I just get inexpensive ones, they last 6 months or so, then I replace them. You can use disposable gloves between plants... if you don't, be sure to wash hands!

---------- Post added at 09:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 PM ----------

Another thought... If you can find pots that are somewhat deeper relative to the width than the ones you have, that's better. Cyms have long roots. If you want to continue to hang them and the pots you find don't have hangers, just poke holes with a hot object (I use a metal barbecue skewer for the purpose, heated with my trusty propane torch) and then use wire hangers. (3 holes at equal intervals make a stable configuration)

[Orchid Chikk Aussie Land]

Originally Posted by Roberta

I would wait a month so before repotting those Cyms, even if done with blooms. (Definitely wait for blooms to be done!) The concern is not rain, but rather temperature - you want the days to start warming a bit, as they do in late winter. As for roots, please don't cut them! I know some Cym growers do trim roots of big, overgrown plants, they'll grow more. But these are still rather young plants. You can up-pot them... pot should be big enough to allow perhaps 2 years' growth... not more. When you do repot, clean off old medium that falls off easily, but you don't have to get them squeaky clean. I usually just give the roots a bath with the hose to clean them up. If there are rotted roots you can remove them, but if they are white (even if there are some black spots) they're still good. If the roots are longer than the pot is deep, no worries... if you put the plant into the pot with a twisting motion (sort of screw it into the pot) the long roots will wrap around. If any sneak out of the holes, just give another small twist to coax them back in. Add the bark a small amount at a time, tap the pot to get it into the spaces between the roots. When you get it topped up, you should press it in place with your hands... no potting stick, please... they break roots, and being impossible to clean, can also transmit disease between plants. But they do like to be held in the pot firmly.

Cyms like to stay on the damp side, so I use small bark, and add some perlite just to help maintain air spaces (but not required) After repotting you can let them dry out for a few days... I don't bother, once done they go back into the general population. That would also be a good time to sprinkle some time-release fertilizer on the fresh bark, you can tease it into the mix a little. When in rapid spring growth, Cyms are heavy feeders, so your liquid fertilizing can use the supplementation.

On more thing... When repotting, hygiene is really important. To get a clean surface between plants, you can use several layers of newspaper (discard and put down fresh ones for the next plant) Sterilize cutting tools between plants. You will find endless discussions about what to soak them in and for how long... I use a propane torch (the kind with a trigger so that you can turn it on and off with one hand is the easiest and therefore most likely to be used) - a few seconds of that hot flame will destroy anything organic. That's a bit rough on the clippers... they do lose their sharpness. I just get inexpensive ones, they last 6 months or so, then I replace them. You can use disposable gloves between plants... if you don't, be sure to wash hands!

---------- Post added at 09:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 PM ----------

Another thought... If you can find pots that are somewhat deeper relative to the width than the ones you have, that's better. Cyms have long roots. If you want to continue to hang them and the pots you find don't have hangers, just poke holes with a hot object (I use a metal barbecue skewer for the purpose, heated with my trusty propane torch) and then use wire hangers. (3 holes at equal intervals make a stable configuration)

Thank you so very kindly 🙂
You are a Gem 🙂
Your Knowledge, comes with much appreciation ..

Advice, in the memory bank

When the sun has been out this Winter,
Is has actually been rather warm 😆
But the nights,
Ohh, so cold,
That's another story .. FREEEEEZING !
So I get what you mean.

I've seen many, Who cut about off about Half, the root systems off
I Didn't think for a second, that was right 😩
But yet, it's said " Don't be shy, When doing so "
I was like, O M Gosh, what the heck
I Now know, it Isn't right,
And definitely Not to follow suit !

Fantastic, I get a very clean picture,
Of How it's to be done,
Awesomeness, You Are 🙂

OK, got that part too,
I got some Outback Orchid pallets fertilizer,
So I will be putting them in pots.

Yes, I've read about newspaper etc etc
So I had a good understanding of that,
My OCD comes into play here,
For very good reasons also.
I also, bleach down my plastic table,
Before and after use.
I managed YAY, to get some Methylated Spirits a couple of days ago,
So I use it on the cutters,
Works a treat 🙂

Will definitely be looking for some Deeper pots,
Got these for the smaller ones,
But I would like more,
And spot on,
Happy roots,
Happy orchids 🤞
Got it all.

Thanks again x