Experimenting with macro close-ups (Doritaenopsis)

[JungleWriter]

Experimenting with macro close-ups of my beautiful Doritaenopsis 'Taida Salu' now in flower. It has 5 blooms in all, but the shape of the flower is intriguing. I didn't use flash for this, preferring the softer tones of natural light. I'd very much welcome any feedback.

[Bud]

its still cold out....but I quickly bring my flowering orchids outside either at the top of my building (when its not windy) or down by the street near the sidewalk and use the sunlight and the sky ....
overcast sky is the best to capture the real color of the blooms....
but if its a clear sky: I make it a point to take pictures at 9 to 10 am when the sun is still at an angle

I have an automatic macro settings where the lens adjusts to when I go closer to the object

[WhiteRabbit]

Cool

[golforchid]

I don't know what lens you are using. However, with macro the depth of field is quite shallow, therefore to increase depth of field a higher f stop is needed. Then this will likely necessitate a slower shutter speed. Your picture is quite "soft" in terms of focus. Unless you have a steady hand, you might consider using a tripod if you're going to use available light.

[Bud]

tripod is a very good suggestion, I was wondering why my pictures are either soft focus or blurry....I am not a professional photographer .....just in the learning stage...I was forced to take pictures on account of my blooms

[JungleWriter]

I used a tripod with remote shutter and a Nikkor 105mm zoom with extension tubes. The soft focus is most likely because this is a composite of three exposures which I wanted to bring out the dynamic range. I think there was some very slight movement of the lens between exposures, leading to the softness.

[golforchid]

I used a film camera for years and just switched to digital in July 2012. And, after suggesting the use of a tripod, will admit that all my macro photos were made without ever using a tripod! I shot either natural light or with flash. My lenses with my Contax RTS: Zeiss Macroplanar 60 mm and Vivitar 70-210 with macro. I am currently using a Fujifilm Finepix HS30EXR with which I can shoot macro, but I have yet to achieve the wonderful "bokeh" that I got with my film glass

[tropterrarium]

Originally Posted by JungleWriter

I used a tripod with remote shutter and a Nikkor 105mm zoom with extension tubes. The soft focus is most likely because this is a composite of three exposures which I wanted to bring out the dynamic range. I think there was some very slight movement of the lens between exposures, leading to the softness.

Composite exposure? You don't refer to HDR processing? Looking at that flower, I don't think you need to worry about dynamic range. You can still capture the image as a RAW file, then use RAW-conversion options (exposure, highlight rescue, fill light function, blackpoint adjustment) to tweak the image. You could even take the single RAW capture, do RAW conversions from -2, -1, 0 +1, +2, then feed those into PS as a HDR stack.

The softness is positively motion blur as it is all over the frame, and both on near as well as far portions of the flower, ruling out depth of field issues.

Are you using mirror lock up? Mirror shake can be devastating in the 1/30-1 second range.

Consider also whether the flower moves. That will blur the exposure even if the camera is on a tripod, camera triggered with mirror locked up and with cable/remote release. Phals have pretty long spikes, so are prone to movement. I use a Wimbley Plamp to rest long spikes against just outside the frame, so that it will have less opportunity to move.

---------- Post added at 07:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------

Originally Posted by golforchid

My lenses with my Contax RTS: Zeiss Macroplanar 60 mm and Vivitar 70-210 with macro. I am currently using a Fujifilm Finepix HS30EXR with which I can shoot macro, but I have yet to achieve the wonderful "bokeh" that I got with my film glass

You have a good eye recognizing the different bokehs; I trust you talk about the Zeiss, because the Vivitar zoom is not even remotely in the same league. You can still use the CY Zeiss Makroplanar on a digicam, specifically with a an adaptor (e.g. Haoda) on a current Canon SLR (sorry, compact cameras will not be able to give you that). Will be working f-stop only, but you get the quality of the glass. I use a number of my CY Zeiss lenses on my digiSLR, but also have gotten a Zeiss native 100 mm Makroplanar ZE; still MF, but automatic aperture. Well worth every penny!

[golforchid]

My last acquisition, before purchasing the Fujifilm Finepix HS30 EXR, was the German Zeiss 70-210 Telemacro which permits macro throughout the entire range. The fellow, from whom I purchased it, was using it on a Canon and it came with the adapter. At some point I will upgrade to a DSLR as I have been learning to photograph wildlife, specifically birds, and am seeing some of the limitations of my current camera with both ends of its range. Still exploring all the various menus and settings with the Fuji, which overall, is great when I'm trekking around the cloud forest as it's light and I don't have to change lenses. Once I opt for the DSLR will then have to decide whether I want one with 35 mm equivalent sensor or with CMOS. Until then I guess I'll hang on to my Zeiss film glass.

[JungleWriter]

I switched to DLSR about a year ago, now that resolution matches that of ISO 50 slide film. I have not looked back! Aside from the lower cost, the convenience and immediacy have taken my photography to a new level.