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  #11  
Old 03-19-2011, 05:15 AM
Discus Discus is offline
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If you're using a remote shutter release, see if your camera offers a mirror lock up function - takes the last little bit of "shakiness" out of your otherwise rock solid tripod-mounted camera. This is usually used with a self timer, so the mirror "slaps" up, the camera waits a few moments, the vibrations go away, and then it takes the pic. Crap for moving subjects, but perfect for flowers.

And make sure you're not photographing somewhere windy (or fan-y)...
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  #12  
Old 03-19-2011, 12:37 PM
tropterrarium tropterrarium is offline
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I noticed pronounced shadowing in the bottom-right part of the image. Use a piece of white card-board, hold it close but just outside the frame to bring some light into that dark spot. Silver cookie sheet also works wonders.
Otherwise, close down f-stop, tripod, remote shutter (or use self-time), mirror lock-up (or use self-timer) as the others mentioned before.
Last but not least, take more pictures. I usually take about 20-50 images per specimen, just go give you some idea. Make minor adjustments and see how the images improve step-by-step. Then edit ruthlessly. I end up with 5-8 images that I actually keep.

I personally like flashes for their show-stopping action, but others will disagree. It is not easy to make a flashed image NOT look flashed. I work with diffusors, head angle, head position, alter ratio between flash heads, exposure compensation, plus reflectors. Takes a while to get comfortable with it.

Below a Masdevallia zahlbruckneri.

8610-20.jpg
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  #13  
Old 03-19-2011, 05:17 PM
tucker85 tucker85 is offline
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Wonderful picture. Thanks for the advice.
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