Quote:
Originally Posted by RobS
Probably they are but if you're talking value for money Sigma EX is great and most of us won't see the difference. Sure if you have the cash to spare and really like your fotography or are a perfectionist go for the high end big brand ones.
|
The "worst" thing you can do is to use a really good lens for a while, then go back. There is no going back, really. Once you realize what's possible, and how much one sacrifices with a mediocre lens, one only will be happy with the real thing. Renting a lens is a good way to find out before committing to a purchase.
re "most of us won't see the difference", a good lens cannot compensate for poor technique (bad focus, camera shake), but if the intention is to improve ones photography, then it is worthwhile to spend some time using proper technique and looking critically at images. Then you will see the differences also in terms of flare reduction, distortion, various aberrations, color rendition.
In this context, size also matters. If you only plan on showing the image on a phone, or printing it at 4x6 inches, probably one can get by with a compact camera. But once you blow it up a bit more, it really shows. Just printed a Masdevallia zahlbruckneri flower full-size at 13x19" last night, shot with a Zeiss Makroplanar ZE 100 mm f/2.0. Even the nicely rounded (not angular as in cheap lenses) out-of-focus areas (aka bokeh) are to die for.
Last but not least, what is the purpose of this new lens? Why is the old one not sufficient? These questions will be crucial to answer in order to find out what one needs/wants. It may even identify incompatible requirements; e.g., 18-500 mm zoom for hand-held low-light photography: either long range zoom with small f-stop (f/5.6) for sunny days or on tripod; or large f-stop (f/0.95-1.4) fix-focal, preferentially normal to wide angle.
As this is posted on OB, I assume that one important aspect is plant photography. This is in the close-up to true macro range. Zooms really perform poorly in that area; there are NO macro-zooms for a good reason. Some zooms have a special close-up setting. While it shows the object bigger, it also sacrifices enormously in quality. A zoom intended for flower photography is a non-starter.
Consider that lenses are optimal for one particular setting, deviate from that setting, and performance decreases, and the further one deviates from that setting, the worse it gets:
- one focal length: invariable with fix-focal, but is a factor with zooms.
- one focus distance/magnification. For regular lenses this is at infinity distance/magnification. For most macrolenses, this is at 1:5-1:10. Some specialized symmetrical lenses are optimized at 1:1. Please note, that this is the *optimum* magnification, not the maximum magnification (usually 1:2 or 1:1 with most macros).
- one f-stop. Usually 2-3 f-stops down from wide open.
For those interested, read Sidney Ray's Applied Photographic Optics. Even when skipping all the math, there is still plenty of good info in there.