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  #11  
Old 11-20-2010, 03:43 PM
Paul Paul is offline
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Very nice shots, Ron!
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2010, 05:21 PM
ronaldhanko ronaldhanko is offline
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Thanks very much, Paul.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2010, 05:25 PM
Hedge Hedge is offline
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I love the way the light picks out all the tiny hairs on the surfaces, and the iridescence effects
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2010, 07:47 PM
ronaldhanko ronaldhanko is offline
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Thanks for looking and taking the time to comment, Hedge.
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2010, 03:10 AM
tropterrarium tropterrarium is offline
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Agree on the hair details. Flashlight in dark room, sounds like long exposure time & tripod-plus mirror lock-up. I assume those are digi captures, so how did you do color settings? Manual Kelvin setting with color meter? indoor incandescent? Custom white balance? The strong colors will send any auto-function completely haywire.
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  #16  
Old 12-02-2010, 05:02 AM
Lars Kurth Lars Kurth is offline
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I must agree: I am amazed how well the colour worked out. Whenever I use artificial light or flash light, the colour turns out unsatisfactory unless you get the colour settings right or do some post processing.

Does anybody use bracketing and HDR for orchid shots. This should give some good results (can't wait for my new photoequipment)
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  #17  
Old 12-02-2010, 05:16 AM
ronaldhanko ronaldhanko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tropterrarium View Post
Agree on the hair details. Flashlight in dark room, sounds like long exposure time & tripod-plus mirror lock-up. I assume those are digi captures, so how did you do color settings? Manual Kelvin setting with color meter? indoor incandescent? Custom white balance? The strong colors will send any auto-function completely haywire.
Missed this somehow yesterday - apparently it didn't show up in my User CP. Indeed a long exposure - the first was taken with my wife's point and shoot at 1/30 (was trying to help her with some things), the second and third with my own 7D at 3 and 4 secs. As to the color settings, I don't have a color meter and don't know how to do custom white balance, but try shots at all the different white balance settings until I get something that is accurate. Since I do quite a bit, I have a pretty good idea which to use, and then if necessary adjust it in PSE, though I don't like messing around with the photos in PSE.
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2010, 05:18 AM
ronaldhanko ronaldhanko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars Kurth View Post
I must agree: I am amazed how well the colour worked out. Whenever I use artificial light or flash light, the colour turns out unsatisfactory unless you get the colour settings right or do some post processing.

Does anybody use bracketing and HDR for orchid shots. This should give some good results (can't wait for my new photoequipment)
I haven't tried HDR - not really into it. Have used some focus stacking. Should have mentioned in the previous post that I not only try different WB settings but do some bracketing as well.
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2010, 10:32 AM
tropterrarium tropterrarium is offline
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Custom WB should not be that difficult on the 7D; I assume it works the same as on my 5DmkII. Shoot a white object (paper, ceramic, ...) full frame in the particular lighting condition, then go to the WB function, select custom WB, select that image of the white surface, and that's it.

The only caveat is with paper/card-board and light sources with a significant UV component, such as electronic flash. Most white papers have UV brighteners in it, i.e., they fluoresce UV to blue, so a blue shift is noticeable.

I assume that you want to capture the color in a neutral, comparative fashion. In some instances, you may like a color shift. Typical example would be sunset, which is taken with daylight WB (5500-6500K), so that sun and sky look orange. Doing WB to say 2000-3000K, would make a perfectly white, slightly yellowish sunset.

Adjusting color balance in PS is not difficult and not guess work either. In curves, select the black eye-dropper (make sure that the eyedropper is set to 3x3 or 5x5 pixels, not single pixel in the options bar), select a very dark/black spot, click on the white eye-dropper, select a very bright area with just a tad of detail (i.e., not specular highlight). Then I like to go to each of the individual channels, and reduce the steepness of the curve by 10 units by using arrow key while shift key is held down, both in the heel and the shoulder of the curve. That can rescue pretty poor color. For more subtle adjustments including saturation, I switch from RGB to Lab and adjust a and b channels. That is more a subjective matter. For it to hold any water, though, a properly spider-profiled monitor is necessary.

In the RAW converter, you also have a color temperature slider, so that can get you quite far early on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldhanko View Post
... As to the color settings, I don't have a color meter and don't know how to do custom white balance, ....
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  #20  
Old 12-02-2010, 11:05 AM
ronaldhanko ronaldhanko is offline
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Thanks for all the info, Tropt. I'm going to try the white balance thing before my next photo session. I'll let you know how it goes. I don't have PS only Elements and I don't know that there's anything in Elements like you're describing, but then I use it only for some very basic editing.
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