I agree.

Marilyn

I've gotten away from using a fixed tripod except where I know I have time or need for really sharp pictures. Having said that, I highly recommend this Kirk | SP-QR Strap Pod with Arca-Type Quick Release Mount They have a model with just the 1/4" tripod socket screw as well. These are amazing tools and I keep it on the camera when wandering around. I just drop the end to the ground, stand on the end and pull the camera up to my eye. That adds some of the stability I need to keep the camera from wandering during exposure. Try it.

I think the focus thing might really be just a case of selecting a better object for the camera to focus on. The focus process is different for each of the focus points in your vcamera and the manual should show you which points like horizontal lines and which ones like vertical lines.

I'm the opposite of Ross. I carry a small tripod with me everywhere now. Get much better pictures that way also because it forces me to take more time with them. The tripod I use folds down to 13 inches and only weights about a pound. It's a Manfrotto 785SHB and has a ball head and quick release.

Amanda, Ramon, and Marilyn, thanks for your comments, I wish I liked them too.
Ross... What do you mean, when you want really sharp pictures? :) After knowing you can have them don't you always want them now?
I like the your strap pod idea a lot. I will look into that. I also agree with the different choices of focus points and changing so much to different objects. I know I would have done a better job just going after one thing.
Ron, I agree with the tri, or bi or anypod is better than nopod for good clear pics. My opinion is that with the basic and limited equipment I have, D60 and kit lens, I better be prepared so I can make the best of it. At least I feel that I am on my way to knowing my camera and seeing our combined limits, which is a good thing yes?

What I mean is tack sharp. This can be different from "acceptably sharp" (as in snapshots for the family sharp). When I am doing a shot I think I may want to put up for sale, and need to be undeniably sharp, I will use the strap pod. I carried it when in the Fakahatche and the images came out really sharp. I've used it in Sunken Gardens in St Pete when I did images for my stock agency and the images were all sharp enough for sale. When I carry my camera to the kids house to record birthdays, etc. I just try my "steady" hand :yawn: The point I was making about focus points is based on the way the autofocus works. Check your manual for help there.

Think about this: blur is caused by one of three things (always) - camera movement, subject movement, or focus error. With auto focus, focus error is unlikely unless the auto focus bracket selected was the wrong one, or the autofocus was having a problem with subject contrast (the way the autofocus works). Subject movement (like a flower blowing in the wind) you can't do much about except pick a calm part of the day (like dawn) for pictures. The camera movement is totally controllable by you and the one you can work on.

I also noticed most of your images tend to be underexposed. This is a common problem for many and not something you can do much about right now. The meter did it's thing, but the subjects you picked were difficult. There are whole books explaining this. Here's a site I just found that looks promising for that: New Campus I just checked the Basic Photography section under exposure control and it's pretty good. Th enrollment is only $39.

Have fun, and if it makes a difference, I've been doing this for over 40 years and still sometimes blow it - but not so often dowadays :biggrin:

LOL It's all about perception I suppose. What's tack sharp for me might just be acceptable for you right now. Maybe one day I may want to sell my pictures too if I get that good but I will probably need a better lens at least.
Thanks for all your help Ross. I really appreciate it.
PS. where are those Fak pictures?

I've found that with more practice the shots I am getting now handheld are sharper than what I used to get using a tripod. I will still occasionally use a tripod but I'm finding for average shots that it's more hassle than it's worth.

focus point
 

Ok here's some focus point practice. This is what you meant right Ross?
Andrew....no tripod on these, but only because there wasn't much room for it.;)

Exactly! Now you got the idea. That's what all those little brackets are for in the viewfinder. I leave mine set to the center one, hold the button to focus on the part of the image I want, then recompose, then finish pushing the button. Comes with practice, but what I see there is a great start. Now just work on deciding what to focus on. Keep in mind, most lenses infinity position is actually a bit beyond infinity. This is to assure expansion/contraction of the lens barrel doesn't limit the movement. So on a given day, just setting the lens to infinity won't give a true focus. The auto-focus should be right-on though.

A quick lesson on exposure. The meter is attempting to replicate 18% gray. This means that most "normal" scenes will be exposed fairly well. However sunsets, bright sand, tree shadows, etc. will be off. Scenes that are very bright need a + exposure compensation dialed in. Scenes that are very dark (or scenes with lots of shadows) will probably be overexposed. If this is not what you want, dial in a little bit of underexposure (say -1/3rd or so). Be careful with setting minus compensation - a little goes a long way. I rarely go lower than -2/3 to -1 EV and then only when shooting against black backgrounds - it keeps the background from turning gray. Many of the flower images I see posted here need some plus compensation to make the bright parts "pop".

Trust your D60 meter - it is one of the most accurate out there. But it is only doing what its designers ordered - 18% "gray". The camera meters the focus spot you select with the dial on the back of the camera (the [ ] things in the viewfinder) if you have spot metering selecting. The "matrix" metering is what is called 'evaluative' (it evaluates the entire scene in color) and is rarely fooled except as I noted above. It knows the difference between green and blue so when large amounts of blue are at the top of the scene (sky) and large amounts of green at the bottom (grass) it accounts for this and exposes pretty darned well. This is true both in landscape and vertical (portrait) modes.

Saw the picture of the Vanda on Flickr and didn't realize it was you. It's a great picture.