Tripod Advice?

[ipv6ready]

Originally Posted by Bolero

If I buy another tripod I will be buying a Manfrotto. Excellent quality and the price isn't bad really.

It's worth spending a little more when you have a good camera like that.

I second that.

[cirillonb]

I've used cameras on tripods back to the days of large format film. With the lighter digital cameras, even slr type, I am very comfortable with the vivatar-type. One of the secrets to motion free pictures, especially closeups like orchids, has been mentioned above...shutter release. If your camera as an old fashioned socket for a shutter release cable use that. Lacking such, I agree to set the auto timer to its shortest period, push the release and get your hands off the camera, tripod and table the specimen is sitting on.
Also, be sure the subject is in focus in the first place.
Nick

[Ross]

Originally Posted by cirillonb

I've used cameras on tripods back to the days of large format film. With the lighter digital cameras, even slr type, I am very comfortable with the vivatar-type. One of the secrets to motion free pictures, especially closeups like orchids, has been mentioned above...shutter release. If your camera as an old fashioned socket for a shutter release cable use that. Lacking such, I agree to set the auto timer to its shortest period, push the release and get your hands off the camera, tripod and table the specimen is sitting on.
Also, be sure the subject is in focus in the first place.
Nick

I've been at this since the early 1960s. At first glance your advice seems sound, but there are too many things missing. Affect of wind on the setup. Affect of movement of the subject. Affect of latent vibration in the camera due to shutter. And lots more. My point is (and my images stand as a testiment of which I speak) that the more solid the setup, the more clear and distinct the image. I would never go back to a cheap tripod. It sends a false signal that the setup is solid thus the fuzzyness must be the camera or something else. With macro work (especially long exposure work of several seconds exposure) you get what you pay for. I personally have two scenarios: for studio and working from the car, I go with the Gitzo (Manfrotto) tripod. Heavy? Yes! Solid? Like a rock. For walking around, hiking etc. I use a "foot pod" strap. Both have Arca-Swiss quick release mounts.

[cirillonb]

Ross,
I apologize if my note seemed to contradict you but I meant to add to your excellent advise. I too use a heavy when I can, especially outdoors where wind is a consideration. You advise was on target and certainly you images do speak for themselves
Nick

[flhiker]

Originally Posted by Ross

I've been at this since the early 1960s. At first glance your advice seems sound, but there are too many things missing. Affect of wind on the setup. Affect of movement of the subject. Affect of latent vibration in the camera due to shutter. And lots more. My point is (and my images stand as a testiment of which I speak) that the more solid the setup, the more clear and distinct the image. I would never go back to a cheap tripod. It sends a false signal that the setup is solid thus the fuzzyness must be the camera or something else. With macro work (especially long exposure work of several seconds exposure) you get what you pay for. I personally have two scenarios: for studio and working from the car, I go with the Gitzo (Manfrotto) tripod. Heavy? Yes! Solid? Like a rock. For walking around, hiking etc. I use a "foot pod" strap. Both have Arca-Swiss quick release mounts.

Ross I totally agree with you that a expensive tripod is the way to go if you can afford the price. And I'm sure once you get one you should never need another. In the original post price was a issue!!. Again there are ways around the not perfectly stable tripod, I already mentioned one and the other is (my) camera has image stabilization which will compensation for shutter and motor movement plus most wind and minor earthquakes. Does this Nikon have IS?

[Ross]

Originally Posted by flhiker

Does this Nikon have IS?

With Nikon D bodies, that is a function of the lens. VR is a help, but not a cure for camera shake or operator error. That's why I depend on a foot pod for the cheap, weightless alturnative.