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09-21-2018, 02:32 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 24
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Bringing orchids in from outside-prevention
Hello everyone!
I was wondering if anyone could share any tips of what they do, if anything, when bringing orchids back in the house after summering outdoors. It is almost time here in the Northeast, this was my 1st time bringing them outdoors, they did very well.I have over a hundred now (yes, a true orcaholic) My neighbor with the greenhouse sprays his with a bacteriocide, is that recomended or just a good water bath in the sink? Many are in spike/bud, don't want to mess anything up.
Thanks so much.
Barbara
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09-21-2018, 05:18 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Zone: 7b
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,197
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I keep most of my tropicals indoors all year round, specifically because of the number of pests in my area. However, I do put some of them outside each year, so I add "bug" eviction to the indoor migration process.
As for disease, I worry about that a little less than perhaps I should, but it's also not really been a big issue for me. Spraying with Neem might help, but then if your plants are in bloom there is a chance of some damage to the flowers. There are also products like Physan/Consan, and some people even use a weak bleach or hydrogen peroxide solution. I would be wary of using any of these products on the spikes/buds/flowers. There are also several microbial innoculants / probiotics (like the product that Ray sells and things like Serenade) that may be useful for disease prevention and which are likely to be very safe (don't take my word for it) for flowers.
For the critters, though, I start a month in advance. Once a week, for at least 3 weeks, I'll spray the plants with insecticide. I prefer to use synthetic pyrethroids because they are generally quite safe for people and pets when used properly. Make sure to soak it into the potting mix as well. This helps to eliminate my biggest concerns (ants, roaches, and arboreal crickets) while also taking out the more traditional pests like mites, scale, and mealy bugs.
In addition, the week before I bring things in, weather permitting, I dunk and soak the pots in water to flush out as many of the snails and slugs as possible. Most of them will come to the surface for air, and then I can pick them off manually (this is also effective for any bugs that survived the insecticide treatment). Slugs and snails tend to be a bigger issue with plants that have been sitting on the ground. You might consider using a slug bait, but if you have kids, pets, or lots of wildlife, avoid products that contain metaldehyde.
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09-21-2018, 05:30 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,204
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Yep, three treatments at one-week intervals of a good insecticide, wetting every surface of the plant and soaking the medium thoroughly.
Last fall, I did so with Azamax, and didn't see a critter all winter.
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09-21-2018, 05:58 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 9b
Location: Benicia, CA
Posts: 1,706
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I do the treatment with insecticide, but as I have ants in my garden, I take care to renew the ant baits I always have out about a month before I think the temperatures will drop. Thanks for reminding me, I should make a run to the hardware store soon!
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09-21-2018, 06:03 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Zone: 5b
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,953
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I never really look forward to the job of bringing the plants back inside. The one bonus, though, is that the wonderful fragrance of jasmine and the Cestrum nocturnum will be filling the home each evening.
I always begin preparing and watching the weather in August.
Here is what I have been doing:
Five weeks ago, I moved all my plant shelves in front of the sliding glass door for more side light. I replaced all my fluorescent lights, plugged the lights into the power strip (to make certain they easily reach), made certain the timer is working and set to the times I want, cleaned the shelves, and lined them with fresh plastic.
Three weeks ago: I examined all my plants. The result? Pill bugs and bush snails. I ordered Sluggo-Plus and began to use coffee grounds on the plants (coffee grounds are said to kill bush snails).
Two weeks ago, I began to use the Sluggo Plus.
Last week, examined the plants again. The leaves look clean. I did not see any Bush Snails but that doesn't mean there are not plenty....
Next week, I will begin to bring in the plants, a few at a time. I will shake each one off well to make certain that there are no spiders or other creepy crawlies, wash each one in the sink and soak the pot in a tub, let them dry, spray each one with cold-pressed Neem oil mixed with water and soap (following the instructions from Logees) and pour some of the Neem mixture through the soil. Each will get another dose of Sluggo-Plus. Then they will be put on the shelves.
I have a relatively large plant collection for the home so it will be a challenge, especially those passiflora vines. I would love to just chop them at about a foot but they have still have some unripe fruit around ten to fifteen feet along the vine.
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Last edited by Leafmite; 09-21-2018 at 06:09 PM..
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09-22-2018, 01:50 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 18,654
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Generally I'm working very late and the weather report says there might be unexpected frost that night. I get home much later than normal. I spend all night bringing plants in, and setting them all over the house, hoping they're not so damp they damage the floor. Over the next few months I gradually rearrange them to something manageable, and suddenly it's time to go outside again.
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09-22-2018, 03:02 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Zone: 5a
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 2,727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Yep, three treatments at one-week intervals of a good insecticide, wetting every surface of the plant and soaking the medium thoroughly.
Last fall, I did so with Azamax, and didn't see a critter all winter.
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I haven’t tried Azamax. Thank you for this tip, Ray.
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09-22-2018, 05:20 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Zone: 5b
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Yep, three treatments at one-week intervals of a good insecticide, wetting every surface of the plant and soaking the medium thoroughly.
Last fall, I did so with Azamax, and didn't see a critter all winter.
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I might need to try this! Thanks!
__________________
I decorate in green!
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09-22-2018, 05:33 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 18,654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafmite
...passiflora vines. I would love to just chop them at about a foot but they have still have some unripe fruit around ten to fifteen feet along the vine.
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Some Midwestern friends grow their passionfruit outdoors in the ground. They take cuttings in midsummer and root them in jars of water. They let the vines outside freeze, and carry the cuttings over the winter in the kitchen window. They get them established in pots towards the end of winter, and set them out into the ground after frost is over. They grow so much faster in the ground my friends always get fruit.
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09-22-2018, 05:33 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Zone: 5a
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 2,727
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Ordered Azamax 4oz is US$24. Good to see it uses “food grade” chemicals.
-Natural product with a broad spectrum of pest control and broad plant applications
-The special feature of AzaMax is that is does not use hard chemical solvents and uses food grade formulation ingredients
-It effectively controls spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, worms, beetles, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, nematodes and other soil borne pests.
-Uses food grade formulation ingredients
-AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator which control pests through starvation and growth disruption
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